rolls_on_19

na man. My haynes manual says they're 6.8mm thread. i spent about half an hour with my local holden mechanic and a couple boxes of metric,udf,udc nuts and nothing fitted

that's the gravy. Thanks man

Hey guys. Was fiddling with my engine last week and failed to retighten some nuts back up. Basically they vibrated loose and i can't get into bmw to even see if i can get replacements. I assume i can. They're 6.8mm thread size and hold together the top and bottom halves on my m42 intake manifold. The nut is about 10-13mm i think but it's not really inmportant. If anyone can help i'd be grateful. If anyone has any to sell i'll take 2. Can be texted on 0276358350 as i have poor internet access atm. Thanks

also if you look at the pics of my ride you can see roughly how close the outside of the guards are. This is with it lowered too http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?showtopic=5502

My actual rims are 235 wide. So that's 7.5 inches or so?? Front and rear are 235 wide tires. I think that reccessed tread you get on the lip if you stretch a 215 wide tire onto a 235 wide rim would give enough clearance to stop rubbing. I also found that simply cutting out sections of that plastic inside guard stopped some of the audible rubbing but it still chassis rubs on a small section. Not sure it's really favourable or legit. The size increase didn't affect acceleration a dramatic amount. Cars that i used to keep up with at traffic light drags are still right there beside me. If you live in chch i can let you try my rims on for size. Don't think you do though.

hey dude. I've got 235/35/19's on my 318is and they fit no problems. It's also lowered on a/c schnitzer springs but i had to roll the guards with a baseball bat. It's easy enough to do yourself. Just heat your guards with a heat gun and the paint shouldn't crack I have problems with tire rub on the inside of the front guards but only in the last 10 degrees of steering before full lock. Rear end has no problems with any clearance whatsoever. Only problem was when i fitted 20mm spacers. Rear end would guard rub when compressed to bump stops and the front needed some serious guard rolling, which was done with a pair of soft jaw pliers. I don't suggest it be done that way lol. Handling is fantastic. Better than standard. Acceleration is poor as expected but fuel economy is a lot better when cruising. Camber wear is shocking. Getting front camber plates and crash bolts in the rear to try fix this. Or may end up just ditching the bling for something a lot sportier Hope this helps you a bit

yeah everyones closed for new years unfortunately thanks anyway

Hey i replaced my rotors and pads today ready to drive up north tomorrow and found that one of the two bolts holding my brake calipers onto the struts was missing. luckily my rotors were so worn they held the pads on them. If anyone in the chch region has an e36 parts car i can buy one off asap i'd be greatful. Or does anybody know a quick place to get one? As i said, i'm going on a road trip tomorrow and without this part it's a no go. If you have one please text me on 0276358350 Thanks

Yeah i got sick of the old hammer bashing to start it. No fun doing that in a busy part of town while people are watching. I managed to marry up a 318ti fuel pump to my 318is pump chassis and fuel level meter. Bout an hours work which was great Wasn't cheap though. I really needed my car drivable so i didn't have any time to shop around. $260 in the end second hand

Decided to kill some time on the weekend and compression test my car. 3 cylinders were spot on, but the rearmost spark plug hole was chocka with oil. completely covering even the plug. I couldn't get the plug socket onto the plug so i couldn't diagnose much more. Has anyone had anything even remotely like this happen? I'm thinking that the rubber gasket around the hole on the tappet cover may have split or somethin. Oil is fine with no water or sludge. Water has no oil in it so it can't be head gasket related.

i really dunno. I'll try get the part number off it and see

Okay i managed to break down in the middle of nowhere on Banks Peninsular. The AA breakdown mechanic managed to get my car going by hitting the fuel tank with a hammer so i'm doing that at the moment. Does anyone know any tricks or tips on how to get a bit more life out of it until it gets replaced or is it a slow but certain death. Also does anybody have any helpful knowledge for replacing it. Maybe a cheaper alternative or upgrade. Any help would be awesome

My fuel pump is on the fritz so i'm looking for a replacement. For a 1993 318is coupe. At the moment i have to bash the fuel tank with a hammer to start it. Don't know why or how it works but the AA breakdown mechanic did it and it works

Hey this is the part here Hey this is the part here. Can email me [email protected]

Just trying to see if anybody has any particular interest in trading a set of wheels from an E36 for my 19's. They came on the car and they really don't suit me at all. I know i'll just ruin them if i keep them. They have a few stone chips and two rims have curbing They look pretty awesome on the car and 3 of the rims have almost brand new tyres. the other tyre is blown out. 2 of them are directionals and cost $400 each and the other good tyre is an assymetric that cost $250. Sizing is 235/35/r19 and they fit on my 318IS coupe with ease but once i'd lowered it i encountered slight chassis rub on full lock. I'm wanting to trade these for smaller diameter rims with tyres. Preferably low weight and not chrome. Plus a bit of cash. For pictures look at My Ride