jin108

One of the turbos is dying and wondering what options there are locally to either rebuild or replace? There are a few aftermarket options on ebay and amazon ive been looking at.

Any recommendations for installers in Auckland as well?

cheers

Hey guys I need to replace my battery in my E90 but dont have a battery coder like Carly. 

Anyone able to help out with this in Auckland? Im on the shore.

I could try and get the carly app but it looks like they dont work with generic wifi dongles like with MHD. 

I have a slow leak in the oil pan and need to change the gasket and bolts. I already have the parts but not really looking forward to doing it myself on jackstands.

Has anyone had a shop do it for them or recommend a place for a reasonable price? How much would you pay? 

On 25/07/2017 at 10:15 PM, Herbmiester said:

These parts will go in when I do the M3 front arms and hopefully a bigger rear sway bar. 

FYI I read that a bigger rear sway bar wont make much difference without a lsd and stiffer bushings. 

I did the front M3 control arms and it made the steering feel slightly stiffer but not night and day difference. My fcab were shot so made sense to change them but its not much of an upgrade really.

On 2017-6-26 at 11:10 AM, Benji335i said:

Just wondering if oil leaks are a common problem with this engine?

can anyone recommend anywhere to fix the issue asap!! 

Do you have an N54 aka the oil fountain? On those yes oil leaks are common. 

Thanks for the replies i can pull the pipes myself and gut the cats for free instead of paying $500 or more for downpipes. Getting the VRSF ones would be cleaner i know. 

Do you guys get CEL with the downpipes? I dont think MHD has an auto clear for it right? 

I want to get rid of the downpipe cats in my 335i and thinking of either pulling them off and gutting them out with a screwdriver or getting a shop to cut them out and weld a straightpipe in there.

Gutting them would be the cheap option but might not be optimal for airflow as the cavity is bigger than the rest of the pipe and could cause turbulence.

I had a shop quote me $290 to cut and weld and they said they would do it without removing the downpipes and weld a bung in for the oxy sensor. Has anyone had this done? Just wondering how they would get a clean weld on the top of the pipes as there is not a lot of room under there.

I know best option would be to buy aftermarket pipes but we dont have emissions testing here and removing the cats can be a wof fail but if the stock pipes are on there they would never know. Especially if they are just gutted out. 

Good luck with the build will be amazing. From of the reviews ive seen of the singles they can be problematic from a tuning perspective and dont suit a daily car. Hope it all goes well for you.

Going to sell the RB twins and inlets?  

I recently replaced the radiator on my E90 bought a behr from fcp euro. The quality appears good but there was the problem with the lower coolant pipe connection on the left side. The coolant pipe to waterpump connects to the radiator sideways instead of diagonally downwards so this made it difficult to get the radiator fan back in the pipe had to be pushed and squished upwards was a real pain getting it back in. 

Get a vacuum gauge and plug it in directly with a t connector and long hose can watch it when going for a pull. You can then know for sure if there is an actual boost issue or just a sensor. And double check the manifold and CP are seated correctly since you only had this issue after the intake blasting. Best practice is to replace the manifold gaskets so another thing to check as well. 

Just now, Herbmiester said:

Yes I have the charge pipe and valves as mentioned and having looked at the other likely places I suspect it's there. Will fit these parts over the next few days and re log. I think saying its straightforward is a bit unfair as 2 workshops were unable to find the fault.

Yeah sorry its not quite straightforward but it is time consuming which is why its better to try figure out yourself rather than getting a shop to do it. Another thing to check are your vacuum cans i had a leak on one of them. But betting its your diverter valves based on what you already said earlier. 

Yup find a quiet road turn off all electronic aids and floor it in 3rd shift at 6k to 4th keep going to get a proper log 

Log clearly shows a massive boost leak the target and actual boost should match. Usually you get all these issues after you tune a 335i will be interesting to see your patience with the car over time. You would be wise to learn to do stuff for yourself esp something straightforward as a boost leak as this could end up being an expensive car to maintain. 

2 hours ago, Herbmiester said:

The vacuum gauge showed they closed and there was no leak down over time. If you Google waste gate rattle you will see how the pivot arm wears and even tightening up the arm will not solve the issue. That said at 80ks there should not be enough wear to cause this.

I think many would disagree with you that tightening up the arm would not solve the issue. In my case the rear WG was rattling I tightened it up and no rattle for about a year now. It is the only fix short of replacing them. If you run out of thread to adjust then the only fix is new WGs. It can happen at 80ks if its been driven hard but since you've tested it doesnt sound like thats the issue. Smoke test wont show a vacuum leak on loose DVs if it only happens under boost so its the easy thing to fix before changing VCG. 

45 minutes ago, Herbmiester said:

I bought a second hand set of Forge DV,s a while back as the oem ones have a sketchy reputation. I should have mentioned I checked the wastegates with a vacuum pump and they held seemed to be OK but I can't establish the actual seal unless I remove them. It could be the actuator arm becoming sloppy but in theory that doest usually happen at such low kms.

If you used a vacuum gauge should have been pretty clear whether there was a leak or not. If there is then tighten the actuator arm but then it should be apparent if theres a problem as the wastegates would rattle if they were loose. 

Ive never heard of a boost leak caused by the VCG but in cases of boost leaks CP and DVs are the first ones to rule out. 

You can easily test the wastegates by applying vacuum directly to them and see if they hold. You mentioned the diverter valves are loose that is highly likely to be the issue. Maybe hold off on getting the forge diverter valves you can test whether the oem valves themselves are leaking by pulling them out and applying vacuum to them directly. If they dont leak then its the connection to the oem CP and the new CP should fix it as will have rubber hoses that should seal nicely. 

32 minutes ago, Gabe79 said:

 

What kind of costs does an alignment job incur at these?

I paid about $80 but they had a special on at the time. They claim their machines have tighter tolerances than what other shops use so something else to take into consideration. 

Wheel alignment is the one place i would only go to the dealer for JC Takapuna are professional, will clean your car (if you detail your car yourself skip it otherwise they will leave swirls) and will look over car and give you a list of maintenance items. All for same price the independent alignment places charge.

Just now, BM WORLD said:

all made out of crap plastic with about 30% crushed recycled glass , all the plastics in the cooling system will fail over time

better to change now before they crack and you cook your very expensive engine

Ok thanks. Might do it as well getting the pump out was a pita especially that third bolt on top. 

3 hours ago, *Glenn* said:

It's not recommended to change the pump without the new thermostat and you MUST use 3 bottles of genuine coolant and vent the system correctly without the battery voltage reducing below 13v. The thermostat has a mapped cooling sensor built into it

Yes thanks understood. Went through the same procedure when i emptied the coolant to change the OFHG. Coolant was the one thing I had to buy from the dealer at some exorbitant price. Funny enough thats when the coolant starting leaking very slowly about 10 months ago and last few days started dumping it so had to look around was hoping it was a hose but was the actual wp housing. Opened it up and the o-ring inside was loose maybe that was the problem? Car has 155k on original pump so not bad considering they supposed to crap out at 100k.

Why is the thermostat recommended to be replaced? Is it because your in there so might as well do it as well? 

550 nzd shipped. Might have GST to pay but these small items usually pass straight through

Thanks the thermostat is fine just the waterpump is leaking. i know its recommended to change it as well but im okay leaving it. If its not broken dont fix it right?

I can get the pump plus bolts for around 550 from the US just going to take a few days to get here. Better than the $1000 BMW quoted me anyway although they have it in stock. 

Before I go ahead and order a new one thought id check if anyone here has a spare lying around. Please let me know asap. Thanks. 

diy it with some isopropyl alcohol is an option

Easiest thing to do yourself and first step would be to remove vanos solenoids and clean them