dirty36

Want to buy x2 solid mass flywheels new or used and can be machined.

also want to buy a clutch slave cylinder 

for 325i e36

located in Wellington.

Want to buy conversion kit, located in Wellington.

cheers.

8 hours ago, Ace Of Spades said:

There's a few good race/ex cars around on the FS part bro, have a little look if not I know of a 328i for sale

Details on 328i?

10 hours ago, skidz said:

I have an E30 coupe race car that may be available shortly, without engine, or with enough parts to build a good M20B28...

 

Give me a call if interested

 

021 744 881  C

Cheers...Stephen

I’m just after something basic to build my first track car with, your e30 sounds like a little our of my price range.

Looking to buy a car that would be good for a track project so doesn’t need to be road legal. Preferably would like a manual 325i e36 but open to anything that’s manual. Located in Wellington.

55 minutes ago, Mad_Max said:

I'm assuming sedan? I have got one good one here in a car, hate to think what shipping would be worth or how to go about it. If you have no luck searching closer to home let me know and I'm sure we can sort something out.

yeah for a sedan, sweet thanks I will let you know how it goes because they seem quite hard to find.

want to buy e36 sedan tan headliner. Located in Wellington but can pay for shipping.

Thanks.

Anyone selling a tan headliner for e36 sedan? Can pick up Wellington or pay for shipping.

1 minute ago, BM WORLD said:

there are medium case diff flanges 323i 325i 328i

, and small case 318i 316i 318ti 320i 318is etc

 

medium case type axles are larger diameter and have bigger flanges and splines etc , also factory manual medium size axles are fatter in the middle of the shafts .

if you cant get the axle out of the rear arm , just change the whole arm/axle unit

some times you need the correct tools , like a press or hub puller /axle pusher etc to get them to come out

also heat and soaking in lube etc can help

 

have all options in stock and can freight

 

 

Are the medium case axles also bigger on the wheel bearing side too?

Can this flange be taken off and put into a different axle? I've got the wrong axle so it won't bolt up to my diff and I've been trying to get my original axle out but it's rusted in.

Just took some pictures while I had the parts off car. Posting here if anyone wanted to know. (You'll need to disconnect the handbrake from the handle so there's enough slack to pull it out like this) 

On 5/20/2017 at 3:56 PM, *Glenn* said:

Fit 2nd arm & bolt. I would not use a heli coil for this repair

Are there any write ups about removing the trailing arm/ handbrake cable?

So I've stripped the bolt hole that holds the rear strut to the trailing arm pretty badly. The bolt can pretty much be pushed through. What do you reckon is the best way to go about fixing this? Cheers.

10 hours ago, gjm said:

Found this. Don't know if it'll help - I've not had time to read it yet.

E36 central locking.pdf

Thanks! I'll have a look after work.

When I lock my car from the drivers door it will only lock the drivers door and right rear but nothing in the passenger side, when I lock from the passenger side door it will lock all four. So my question is what part of the central locking system sends the signal from the drivers side lock to the passenger doors. Cheers.

1 hour ago, _ethrty-Andy_ said:

I'm sure i can match something up for you. I have 6x E36s on my lawn at the moment.

Haha cheers. If you have any just let me know.

Based in wellington but will pay for shipping. I need some new or good condition used power steering lines for an e36 325i.

35 minutes ago, gjm said:

Oil typically causes black or blue smoke, so this is probably a water (coolant) related issue. Are you losing coolant? Has the engine overheated at all? Where does the temperature needle normally sit?

Looks like moisture is being burned off. Check cylinder compression or preferably get a leakdown test done... Could be head gasket related, or (hopefully not) a tiny crack in the cylinder head.

It's only just started so will have to keep an eye in the coolant level and if I'm loosing coolant i'll get a compression test. The car has never overheated and coolant sits at norm temp 90-100 degrees. One thing to note is that I haven't driven the car much in the last month or two and the smoke completely disappeared after a decent drive. There's just so much on startup which is a bit of a worry. 

Okay so my E36 325i has a sh*t load of white smoke on start up and stays there until I have revved it hard while the engine is warm. Here's a few videos to show what it looks like on startup/warm and then what it look like after a drive. The smoke comes back once I've left the car off for awhile. Anyone know what's going on?

Cheers.

After drive idle.mp4

After drive.mp4

Idle with white smoke.mp4

Anyone selling a radiator for a 1993 e36 manual? i've already bought a "new" one off trademe and that just leaked everywhere and $650 from bmw is just crazy.

Cheers.

Does it use oem oil filter etc? Pretty keen.

Yeah, uses oem filter.

Is that a CES Motorsport Oil cooler cap?

Nah it's "rallyandroad" from the states.

Brand new oil cap with oil cooler fittings and oil temp/pressure gauge fitting. $315 can ship anywhere in NZ.

Yeah that should work, just need more clearance so the inside of my rim will stop hitting my coilovers. Where are you based?

I'm after two 10mm wheel spacers asap cheers. 5x120. Located in Wellington but can pay for shipping.