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dirty36

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Posts posted by dirty36

  2. Posted · Report reply

    B30 crank, need M52B28 rods & pistons to maintain a good compression ratio. B30 pistons drop the CR to high 8s, B25 pistons will go crashing into the valves. All three engines have different relative deck & wrist pin heights. B30 cam will fit the M50 head but you need to carry the tray & bearings & lifters across - the face of the cam also requires some machining to suit the M50 type vanos unit. You will still need either a full retune of the stock DME or an aftermarket solution - merely raising the pressure in the fuel rail still leads to lean running at anything above 70% throttle. Unfortunately there's no easy hack to get good power from the M50s, but plenty of options if you're not afraid of a little hard work and thinking

  7. Posted · Report reply

    So I removed my coilovers and tried to put the stock spring and shock back in but it just won't fit? It seems like the shock is too long? I don't get it because when I bought the car it came on these shocks and I removed them with no trouble.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    I just bought oil temp and coolant temp gauges. The oil will plug into the sump but where does the coolant temp go? is there a bung somewhere or will I need to make a new hole for it?

    E36 325i.

    Cheers.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Should be looking at $300-450 for front shocks, $300 ish for rears each.

    Bilstiens are one of the best makes in the game and will last for years and years and years, and then they can be rebuilt.

    Cheap Chinese coil overs should be avoided at all costs.

    Keep in mind proper brand coil overs cost thousands and should only be used on the track IMO.

    Okay sweet, I just wasn't too sure what the price would be to start with haha. Yeah defiantly want to go for good quality shocks over coil overs as it's only a street car.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    So I unplugged the maf and it idled like complete sh*t but once I started accelerating it was like all the problems above had disappeared. Could this be the answer? I have cleaned the sensor twice which made no difference at all.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Keep your hand on the cap and gently lift it off slowly. If it's hard to pull off there is too much vacuum = PCV valve fault. If the breather hose has collapsed internally or split, this won't work

    The breather hose looks in good condition and the cap was really easy to pull off.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    They don't have clamps. Check suction on the oil filler cap with the engine idling. You should have positive vacuum under the cap, but it should not have too much suction that makes a noise when you release it

    What's the best way to check the vacuum without oil spitting everywhere?

  22. Posted · Report reply

    I suggest you get it scanned by a professional...it's likely to be the MAF sensor

    It's an unmetered air fault code. Suggest you also check the PCV valve and the rocker cover breather hose

    The rocker cover breather hose had no clamp on it at all, I put a new hose clamp on it but didn't do anything. I will check the PVC

  24. Posted · Edited by dirty36 · Report reply

    Hey Guys

    So I've been having problems with my E46 318i for a few months now..

    basically when I put my foot flat the revs will not go past 2-3000 rpm and it will backfire a few times whilst I have my foot flat, But it's weird because after about 5 minutes of being stuck at 2-3000rpm it lets me rev all the way up (Varies from time to time 5-10 minutes). It will seem like a normal car until I leave sitting for a few hours.

    Another detail is that when I have my foot on the gas the revs will rise and drop by about 200-500rpm at a time making it a really rough jumpy acceleration??

    So far I have replaced the spark plugs, Cam positioning sensor, Pre cat O2 sensor, cleaned the MAF sensor twice with maf cleaner and I have also checked the rubber boot and looked around for vac leaks which I have failed to find yet..

    I'm currently getting the error code P0170 Bank 1 fuel trim.

    Well that's everything I can think of, any help will be much appreciated!

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Connor,

    Yes I kept the M52 intrake manifold, I looked into the M50 manifold in detail and identified that it is in fact over sized for the 2.8 resulting in low gas velocity

    It is fine if you run above 5,000 RPM and are looking for peak power all of the time. The M50 flows 60% more air than the M52, manifolds like the schrick flow about 30% more air and these work well with the M52 engine and the M3 headers on the M52.

    For those of us who drive between 1500 and 6,500 RPM then the M52 or Schrick manifolds work better ,

    I dyno'd the car after the full M3 system was fitted- gained 12kW and about 10% torque lift right across the range, will post tonight for you.

    Look upstream of the manifold to get more air into the airbox and through the air flow sensor and you will retain the strong torque delivery and gain more top end power.

    I am currently at about 172 kW at the flywheel at 5,700 RPM - looking to get to about 180kW at about 6,200 RPM

    Note that the US M3 sucks through the same M52 manifold to produce 178kW from 3 litres and blows into a crappy exhaust.

    What's your list of engine mods if you don't mind? 172kw is pretty damn good.

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