dkwl93

Hey all, Looking to buy some guards/fenders for my dolphin grey E30 (sedan if that matters). I'd prefer that they are in dolphin grey but looking for any colour really as I need them for my now overdue wof. Thanks in advance for any help Dan

Hey man, I'm looking for some guards

Nevermind, fixed. Just put the key in and jimmied it around and was able to put it back into the vertical position. The central locking/remote locking all works now and everything is back to usual. Will never attempt to lock using key again.... lol The learnings here are that when the drivers side key is turned into the double lock position (horizontal) central locking/remote locking stops working and the immobilizer will not disarm

Hey all, I've recently got a problem with my 1990 E30. I've turned the key anti-clockwise to the 90 degrees or horizontal position (Double lock?) and now the lock won't go back to the vertical position. When I did this, the battery was disconnected (I think) and now it's almost as if the car doesn't know that the door is locked. To clarify, I can open and lock the passenger door and the trunk fine with the key. It's just the drivers side door that isn't budging. Another symptom is that central locking seems to have stopped working. The lights flash when I push the remote but it won't lock or unlock. I can hear some clicking from within the car and the window lights and dome lights turn on but the car won't unlock. Also the car will set off its alarm if I try and turn the ignition. Seems the immobilizer is not disarming as well. If anyone can shed some light onto how I can fix this problem, that would be amazing. Getting really desperate here. Thanks in advance for any help

Update - I'm starting to think theres a short somewhere in my wiring. My reasoning for this is is that Fuse 28 controls the cigarette lighter and the Aerial. I've unplugged both these components and put the fuse back in and found that the battery is still drawing 500mA compared to ~50mA when fuse 28 is disconnected. I'm thinking that this might be too complicated for me to diagnose. Does anyone know any good e30 electricians in the Auckland (preferably North Shore) area? Thanks so much for all your help so far

I'll give these a check tomorrow. Also, could the aftermarket alarm be connected to fuse 21?

Thanks for the help. I unplugged it but still have the same draw. It's not the problem. On an unrelated note, is it safe to drive around the car without fuses #21, #24, #28

Hey all, I've recently purchased a 1990 BMW E30 325i (South African) and have an issue with parasitic drain on the battery. I drove the car daily since purchase (~1 week) and it has been starting great each time. However, I didn't drive it for 1 day and found the battery was dead the next day. I then jumped the car and drove around for a while (~20 mins) and found the battery had a charge of > 13V when the engine was on. I then unhooked the battery, closed all doors and put a multimeter in series with the ground of the battery (Multimeter at 10A) and pulled out all the fuses where I got a current of 0.02A. I then started to put in all the fuses 1 by 1 and noticed at Fuse #21 the current would go up to 1.8A. This seems ridiculously high. I kept going and found fuse #24 and #28 also increased the draw by a noticeable amount (~0.1A each). My question is what could be the possible cause of this parasitic battery drain and what should my next steps be? Other things to note is that there is an aftermarket alarm and aftermarket stereo installed. Also, the antenna gives me radio but seems to be stuck around halfway. I did some research and found that my symptoms were exactly the same as this person: Any help would be very appreciated. Thank you!

Sorry to revive a 5 year old thread but did you find out the cause of this? My 1990 E30 325i has EXACTLY the same fuses drawing current. They're drawing 1.9A with all of them in with the majority being drawn by #21 (~1.8A) Any update would be amazing. Thanks