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Found 232 results

  1. Hi guys, I'm after some e30 sports seats in any condition and preferably closer to akl. Thanks
  2. Looking to buy a manual pedal box, to going into an E30. located in AKL, happy to cover freight if anyone has one outside of Auckland.
  3. Hi folks, had this a while but just been tarting it up, sold the convertible, no use to me during winter and was after a decent unmolested E30 as my daily and found this little gem, just a baby 318i auto (for now) - came on bottle caps but stumbled across mint 15" basketweaves (the mrs was talking to her hairdresser who had some under his house for years, lucky find!), removed the go-faster stripes it had and did a 4 stage cut and polish while the weather was nice. Sourced a decent stereo to match the orange light interior (from Bonnie Scotland of all places - matches really well and fixed up a couple of glovebox torches - got a mint reupholstered mtech steering wheel (from Ireland) via ebay and currently in the process of getting some msport seats reupholstered in the original indigo stoff fabric, also fixed the stuck odo with some new gears - will be a little near - minter when done - oh yea, and got some front fogs coming too
  4. Most affordable e30 on the market right now. Drivetrain might need some work but otherwise seems nice and tidy with some tasteful mods. https://www.trademe.co.nz/3456420351
  5. Just getting the feelers out there. considering selling a project. Complete set of rare genuine Hartge Japan 16" x 7.5j with centre caps 4x100 et 15, perfect for E30 fitment hub centric . The lips have been machined off and thrown out, to allow for a 2/3 piece design. Wheels will come with centre caps and mounting hardware. Will need new 16" lips perfect set for a custom 2 or 3 piece build. Perfect wheel for the e30 and are now getting increasingly hard to find! Pm for genuine interests only. Offers north of $2000
  6. Hi Guys, I've decided that I need another E30 in my life, and this time I planning to do it right. Rewind to 6 weeks ago, some friends and I are having a few drinks on a Friday evening. One friend was browsing facebook and mentioned that he found a '96 328i factory manual for sale. Only $1000 he said. This sounded too good to be true....and it was...sorta... The car was water damaged - I'm not 100% on the details, but something something Dunedin floods. Surely if it's a factory manual, the manual parts alone would be worth the money and effort. I thought about it for a while, and then tried to convince myself that it was a stupid idea and to forget about it...I failed. I called the guy, and told him I would take the car and pick it up tomorrow. The car was located in a wreckers yard in Dunedin. I managed to persuade a friend of mine with access to a car trailer and shop to make the trek from Christchurch down to Dunedin with me the next morning. Jumping forward a couple of days and this is my view: After decoding the VIN number of the car, it turned out the car was actually a factory automatic and must've been converted at some point. We started tearing into the car, and it quickly be came evident that, yes, this car was very water damaged. A thin layer of silt covered everything. As we dug deeper, things started to look worse (not unexpectedly). We found water sitting atop cylinder 1's intake valves, but 2-6 all looked perfectly fine. Draining the sump resulted in roughly 10L of water with mixed about 6L of chocolate milk...not great. Further investigation found that the car has a ZF 310 5 speed transmission, an OEM 328i dual-mass flywheel + clutch. Cool, at least the conversion looks like it was done properly. At this point I still hadn't decided what I wanted with to the parts from this car, But I'd been looking for a project car, and I felt I needed another E30 in my life. As it turned out, my friend's father has this little beauty that he's willing to sell. It's by no means perfect, but it's a straight, rust free, registered, '89 318i automatic coupe in my favourite colour (Delphin grey). A good starting point for my project E30. Jumping back to the present, I've pulled the engine and drivetrain out of the 328. The engine is sitting on a stand, and I intend on stripping it down and rebuilding it. Once it's ready, I plan to swap it into the E30 with the manual transmission. From there I plan to do new suspension, med-case LSD, wheels + tyres, and general tidying up. Eventually I would like to have the car's paint redone as it's a little rough in places. Looking at the task at hand, I know I have a fair bit of work ahead of me. But I'm ready for the challenge! Any help finding the various 24v swap components would be great. I know I need the sump, oil pickup, dipstick, and throttle cable from a 525i E34. Not 100% on what to do about the brake booster, although moving it over a bit seems like the easiest solution. The water-damaged ECU is toast, so I need a new one. I would like to keep OBD2. Thinking of getting a (red-label?) ECU and having it flashed (EWS delete, rear O2 delete, M50 manifold, maybe even a higher redline?) E28 535i engine mounts seem to be the way to go, although I've read mentions of an additional spacer is required? Subframe reinforcement is also something I want to do. I would like to use as much of the 328i's factory exhaust as possible as it's still in good condition. Not sure how much of a plain it would be to chop it up. I want to use the E36 radiator and do an electric puller fan conversion.
  7. bga

    Recaros for E30

    Hi all, putting the feelers out if anyone selling any Recaro LS/LX type seats, fishnet type of pos. For the lads E30 coupe for a 21st prezzy later this year, Can get some upholstery fixed if needs be, anything around? (Aucks area ish) thanks
  8. Time to do some more maintenance for now on the car, which means fluids! What are people’s recommendations for fluids for a m52+zf swapped e30 - Brake fluid - Engine oil + filter. Tossing up between the 20L Penrite HPR 5w-40 or racing 10w-40 (couldn’t find any non-racing 10w-40) - Coolant (already replaced it but keen to know what people think) - Transmission oil (probably not needed but keen to hear people’s thoughts) - Diff oil?? - Any others that I’m missing, fluid-wise but also for maintenance? (Won’t be replacing gaskets until the car gets stripped for panel + paint. Will also be doing a cooling overhaul at that point.) Cheers!
  9. Not sure if you’ve seen my endless posts about hunting down a car, which started with an e36 and somehow got diverted to an e30. Finally bit the bullet with what may actually be a bit of a 🍋 in hindsight 😅 (I’ll explain later). A bit about the car first. She started her life in the land of the rising sun in 1988 as a 320i coupe in alpine white and migrated to the land of the long white cloud in 1997. It’s had extensive service history that I can see up until October 2018 when a m52b28 + 5spd (haven’t jacked up yet so don’t know what box) found its way in the engine bay. On viewing and a quick test drive: Pros: - Mechanically sounded and felt well: quick turnover on a cold start, idled well, power felt fine, no knocks or ticking, transmission was smooth. - Wof, reg, and also certed for engine, seats, brakes, suspension - Pretty straight body. Doesn’t look like it’s been in an accident at all. - Central locking with an immobiliser - 2dr and a slick top Cons: - Has the usual e30 imperfections: some rust / corrosion in the common spots (except for the passenger door which may end up being pandora’s box), cracked dash, and paint fade - Wiring’s a bit of a mess in the engine bay and under the driver’s dash - AC deleted - Windows only go up/down if a door is open (some problem with the wiring from the alarm apparently) After some thinking and asking around, I decided to just go for it so I bought it. Picked it up yesterday and that’s where we get to the to the potential lemon part. After a few stops and a bit of time driving around the tron (got some kai, gas, and pumped up tyres), my mate and I noticed a bit of white smoke coming out of the exhaust that kept going (noticed it when I first viewed it 1-2 weeks ago but thought it was just the cold and picked it up late arvo/evening yesterday so initially thought it was also just the cold). By this point we needed to top up the oil as it was sitting low so did that and after a few mins it went away. On the drive back my mate couldn’t tell whether or not smoke was coming out of the engine while driving (I drove the other car) but had his eyes on the temp gauge, which didn’t move. In saying that, we made it back to Auckland with no issues, even with a few moments of ‘spirited’ driving, and had no smoke coming from the engine bay when he was parking it at my place. Another worry is that this morning, I saw that the radiator had been slowly leaking coolant, at least overnight (see video below, have also put pictures of the oil cap, and the coolant reservoir cap) So it looks like the urgent things to do: - New rad (any recommendations?) - Get it to a mechanic to test if the head gasket’s blown I’ll take some photos of the car when I finish getting over the fact that I may have made such a dumb decision 😂. Cheers IMG_1161.MOV
  10. Bought my first BMW in early 2015, it was a fairly standard 320i that was converted to manual and was put on HR springs and KYB shocks with a set of replica volk wheels Used this car as my daily for about a year and did a few things to it, had plans for it but at the time i was driving it every day and it served its purpose well Put some TD144s on it had a problem with the tyres on them changed them down a sidewall thickness and put a bit of stretch and they worked well also put on a Grip Royal steering wheel on to replace the factory wheel it had and that was about the extent of the "mods" i had done to the car until the front cross member gave out on me and broke the small tab that bolts the sway bar bracket on. So at that point i decided to it was time for a M20B25 upgrade "might as well change the engine while i'm fixing this front cross member" I said and from there things spiralled out of control and what started as a 2.5 swap has now turned into a M20B25 stroker turbo build so the motor was pulled stripped everything out of the engine bay and shaved off unnecessary brackets for a nice clean look paint and rust work (leaking brake master i believe) were done at Riverlea Panel and Paint Braided clutch, fuel and brake lines being installed (some shown) Brand new Fenix radiator E36 steering rack and custom shaft wanted to go Z3 but best option at the time was e36 so went with that During all of that i picked up a used M20B25 from Auckland came from a 89 vert with 180000 ks on it but engine ran fine so guess it made sense to rebuild it lol In went a 2.7 Stroker kit 2.7 crank 135mm rods M50???? pistons can't remember what they came from now engine was sent to Cambridge Engine Services for cleaning and checking all was good so in it all went using OEM bearings, rings and gaskets down the bottom Crank scraper and sump baffle were fitted (pain in the ass with two gaskets and very tight baffle to install) Head was ported and polished by Jim at same shop new valve guides and stainless steal valves installed Head was planed just a smidge Bolted together with an Elring HG (2mm) and cap screws head fitted with brand new valve springs and retainers, a reground 272 cam, HD rockers and oversized eccentrics brand new water pump fitted Just currently needing a timing belt and tensioner which i'll pick up this week couldn't resist test fitting the manifolds and turbo when it was all torqued down lol won't be running it with the turbo straight away as it will be easier to run the motor in on the factory ECU that way i'll have the cam run in and the rings will seal really well before boost is added which will be courtesy of a Sinco manifold, front facing plenum and Master Power MPR-494 in the meantime tho just going to be using the standard intake and exhaust , intake fitted with custom fuel rail to run -6 fittings and braided lines which the whole car has been converted to (pics to come) ^ pic of the lines coming into the engine bay unsecured atm brake and clutch lines also being changed to braided lines all bushes being changed to revshift aftermarket ones offset bushes above yet to do the diff mount bush as I'm looking for a medium case diff at the moment and will be twin mounting it underneath the car shortly. E36 adapter shaft with solid aluminium centre Motor and gearbox will be going in shortly with revshift gearbox mounts and Range Rover v8 engine mounts using a spec stage 3, 6 puk clutch and lightened factory flywheel shipped for $700 from Evan at SpeedFactor will definitely be able to handle the power I'm expecting to make will be picking up some seat rails for these in the next few weeks and bolting them in (can't wait these seats are awesome) will be updating this build very soon for now peace
  11. Does anyone have a link or know how to remove this hole unit?
  12. Does anyone know the fitment of a M20 gearbox to a M52b25? Car in question is an E36 323i I've tried searching and I'm sure that its been discussed a lot before however the general consensus from what I have seen online is that an M20 will bolt up to an M52 however will need to have custom mounts made due it it sitting on an angle? I am unsure whether my current clutch or driveshaft would fit. Reason for M20 box (please correct me if I'm wrong {probably am}) is that there seem to be a lot more of them around and they are a lot cheaper than E36 box's which are slightly different? from my understanding. I very much appreciate any responses on here as my current box G220 (If I've identified it correctly) has decided it doesn't really want to be a gearbox anymore and the only box's (or rebuild cost) I have seen is $3500 and up.
  13. 2.8 Crank, 2ltr rods and machined bolt for sale. Bought these from Ray a few years back https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1514648119
  14. Hello friends, I have been having some starting issues with my E30 for the last little while. Here are the following symptoms, and a little update at the end from today which might narrow things down. Please have a look below and let me know what you think it might be: Engine needs to crank for like 5+ seconds with my foot 30% on the accelerator before it is able to start Only marginally better when the engine is warm A whole bunch of very fuelly smoke comes out from the exhaust when it starts (exhaust smoke looks and smells "regular" after driving a while though) Engine can sputter slightly for maybe 1-2 seconds when gently accelerating from stand still When moving slowly in crawling traffic, sometimes can hear motor revs slightly modulating/pulsing, going up and down Rough idle When 3-point-turning into parking spot, during the 2nd turn when the car changes direction from fwd/back with low revs, very rarely the engine can die/stall out Fuel economy is pretty poor. Went very roughly 400km on a 60L tank of fuel, so around 15L/100km. I haven't driven my E30 in a long while but I remember 10-12L/100km as a ballpark economy figure Now for the potentially informative clue today: I had a feeling my issues are fuel related, so I swapped out my fuel filter this afternoon as it was long overdue. Following a youtube guide, I took out the fuel pump relay and started the car. Without the pump the car quickly clears out the fuel in the line so I'm not drenched when I take off the old filter. After taking the old one out (and getting slightly drenched in the residual fuel) and putting the new one in, the lines are obviously very empty of fuel prior to starting the engine. Turning the key and expecting another 5+ second beating before it starts, I was ecstatic when the engine started 2nd crank! No staring issues at all! I ran it for about 10 seconds and switched it off. Attempt number 2 was also very smooth and successful! I drove to the petrol station with the hugest grin, beaming!! My long term problem was finally fixed!! However, after a 5min drive and a refuel, the engine was back to it's old 5+ crank battle from before. Same with the slight sputter when gently accelerating. TLDR and my amateur thoughts: Something is causing my car to inject waaaayy too much fuel when starting? (Potentially just all the time). Car struggles to start for ages and when it finally does there is a big cloud of fuelly smoke. When I emptied the fuel lines today the car started no problem. But after driving around perhaps the lines are filled again and the car gets too much fuel again to start easily? Does this sound like something you know? Would greatly appreciate any hints and tips. My precious E30 has been a bit of a concern for a while, and now I'm commuting again it's something I'd like to iron out asap. Cheers in advance for the help guys! 😄 Edit: My car also had this weird additional hose sticking out into the air. I'm pointing at it on the right. The photos are looking up into the bottom of the car. This hose wasn't in the E30 video I watched. But I read somewhere the larger fuel tanks have an additional line or something?
  15. Hey guys, was wondering if anyone around has done a 5 lug swap on a e30 318i? I'm aware the 318i came with drum brakes in the rear. I think this is going to be the cheapest way to upgrade all the brakes for certification, as the e30 I am looking at buying has a pretty hefty engine conversion. What I'm hoping for is some way to do it with parts I can find at a local pick-a-part or similar (e36, e46 parts). Should I just take the entire rear assembly from an e36 and mix and match parts from the e30 or? I'm aware theres a bunch of ways to do it from having a look on the net but I'm not sure any of them work with the rear drum brakes on the 318i. I could go the route of purchasing a big brake kit for the certification but that costs like $1200 just for the front OR rear. Im happy to spend about that to do front AND rear. If anyone could give me some guidance (i.e. parts list, etc) that would be super helpful. Cheers.
  16. Looking to buy an engine & gearbox for E30 M325i. Preferably after: M20B25 Ideally the engine will be good enough to drop in and wire up, also don't mind refreshing gaskets.Require Loom and Ecu Also interested in stroker variants (2.7,2.8,2.9). Getrag 260 gearbox. Located in AKL willing to travel for the right setup.
  17. Actuator seized up and the passenger door no longer unlocks. I managed to finally take it out, free it up and lubricated it, but after a few weeks working it has seized again, so I guess it's time to look for a replacement. If you can point me to somewhere that might have one that would be great too, otherwise it's eBay o'clock for me. Cheers!
  18. Looking at getting the umnitza project30s for my e30, anyone else have these? What's your experience with them? Cheers.
  19. Hello dear bimmersport community members! I have been overseas for the last few years and have recently moved back to NZ to be reunited with my sweet, sweet car. Unfortunately over these years the plastic rear window has finally given up, and the stitching around it has begun to disintegrate. I am looking at replacement roofs (rooves?) from overseas and have been looking at online guides on how to do it. But before I go ahead and bite the bullet, I was wondering if anyone can recommend a local place to go? Would be good to get some context on pricing to see whether or not importing one from overseas is the right thing to do. It can be to buy a roof itself, get someone to replace just the window, the whole thing, etc... I am pretty open to suggestions. Thanks all for your time and help 😊
  20. Hey guys and gals, looking for a manual coupe either 318i or 325i preferably. Non sunroof as well. Located Auckland. Cheers
  21. Hey does anyone have any recommendations on where i could get some engine mounts to fit a M30 into my e30? I Have contacted Garagisitics and there mounts are all sold out, (no sign of restock). I know there are a couple of other alternatives overseas however thought id try my luck in NZ before Ii order internationally.
  22. https://youtu.be/qWduC7g8zLg I've been watching a lot of older ATCC footage and enjoy watching the 325i Tony Longhurst raced, I've been told one JPS 325i is in Australia and the other is in New Zealand both racing in Historic Touring Car classes, which one is which?
  23. Morning Team. Having a nightmare trying to figure out why this lady will not start.. 1991 e30 with an 89 e34 535i m30. I finished the swap about a month ago and got it started for 1-2 mins before my buddie played with the throttle to try and get it to idle lower... In doing so we heard a fairly loud plastic tick/crack and the motor died.. After we could not get it to start and put it down to a broken tps... From there I have done a 3 wire tps swap (auto to manual) and setup all the other wires as needed. I have run a multi meter across the tps and am getting the correct voltage and continuity between the pins as per the Bentley manual... I have pulled the plugs and have spark on all cylinders as well as fuel for all. Crank sensor is within 540 + - oms. I tried carby cleaner in the intake and got a cough but nothing else.. Ideas? Am I missing something simple? If anyone is keen on some cash/beers/joy rides once finished and is willing to come round and lend a hand, would be greatly apricated! I'm in east auckland. Cheers
  24. Hello there, I am currently on the hunt for a cheap daily. I am looking for something with current WOF and REGO ans something that won’t be needing a lot of work to maybe be a little nice. obviously needs to be running and driving. I am located in Auckland but anywhere in the north island shouldn’t be a problem. Unfortunately I am on a pretty low budget of around $3000, not really expecting something perfect at that price range so not pretty fussed about the condition as long as it meets my requirements stated above and is in dailiable condition. Looking forward to seeing what out there. Cheers, Stay safe.
  25. As per the title, looking on behalf. Wellington, Manawatu or Picton preferred but will consider other options. Thanks. EDIT: and if it's cheap/free enough would consider complete engines.
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