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Benji335i

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Posts posted by Benji335i

  1. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, 3pedals said:

    No totally wrong. 

    When engineers design things they set out their design criteria, the DCT box is modular and designed to cover engines from 100 to 500Nm output,  engineers  use "safety or overload factors"  these vary with application  for example a gearbox used with  a large diesel engine in a truck needs a load factor safety  because of the system inertia. 

    The 500Nm rating is the design maximum that will provide the reliability and performance criteria agreed by the manufacturer and their clients

    Hotted up Volkwagens and BMWs with DCT boxes do experience clutch slippage and other issues. Some run torque limiting software others run increased oil pressures to provide higher clutch clamping forces.  If you have a look at the dyno curves of most of the hotted up N54's you will notice they run low boost up to about 3,000 RPM then ramp it up - this is to reduce the shock inertia loads on the drive train and to make it driveable. 

    Jaguar frequently used ZF and Getrag gearboxes one or two sizes down from BMW and frequently have reliability issues - Standard BMW X5's blow gearboxes and diffs because people tow oversized loads with them - the "safety and load margins" are not as high as you may think. 

    If you UNDERSTAND the design criteria of the various components then you can make informed decisions about how far you can push the envelope and still retain an accepable level of reliability. 

    Setting the clear parameters of your product is not arse covering or avoiding or anti miss leading - it is simply being honest and responsible - this not necessarily true for those offering to get 500kW from a 50cc scooter engine. 

     

     

    Appreciate the advice, I just thought manufacturers are very conservative with figures to cover there backs! 

    If that’s the case I intend to uprate the clutch components SSP over a lot for my gear box!! 

    Move already updated the software which increases the pressure applied.

    it will be a slow build I’m in no rush and I don’t plan to cut any corners either.

    your input is appreciated and I’ll do every precaution necessary so I have no issues. 

     

  2. Posted · Report reply

    35 minutes ago, M3AN said:

    Don't forget engine management systems. If you're going to get up to 600hp then a lot of that is going to be as a result of compressed air so you'll need a sophisticated engine management system that has boost management with infinitely variable ramp settings and fine wastegate control. Think about how you're going to manage traction and launch control as well.

    Water injection should be considered to help eliminate detonation.

    Intercooler efficiency and auxiliary cooling for that are also worth thinking about, it's going to get real hot under there at these levels and you need to maintain density.

    I have no idea about the engine itself but I agree with recent comments; make sure all the loaded elements are forged and all the friction elements are coated, use the highest grade fixtures, gaskets and rings available.

    Can you bore or stroke these? That might actually be a good way to start if you can.

    However you proceed I'd like to see it.

     

    ECU will be custom tuned, incorporating all my mods.

    i already have:

    Catless downpipes

    7” FMIC

    Charge pipe

    bmw P exhaust 

    oil catch can 

    oil cooler valve 

    updated PCV and cap

    Latest Bmw injectors 

    delphi ignition coil kit 

    2 step spark plugs 

    drive belt kit

    1st step is to forge what I have

    Then I will deal with ge chassis, drivetrain, diff and trans. 

    Lastly is the turbo kit with necessary fueling.

    Appreciate the advice and guidance. 

     

     

     

  3. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, 3pedals said:

    P.S a  fact for you GS7D36SG (DCT gearbox fitted to your car) is factory rated at 520Nm max  so find out what sort of torque your build will produce and you will know if it will handle it. 

    I plan to do this properly and focus on the whole package not just the power output. 

    The 520NM is the conservative figure set my Getrag.  However  that figure is off what a company website says that doesnt want to be liable for miss leading or miss representing its product. So instead they under rate it. Im sure no one at bmw would say the n54 is rated for 700whp but it can certainly do it.

    i will upgrade the TCU software which I have already done and I’ll be getting SSP gaskets, filter and clutch pack. 

    The gearbox is identical to the new M3 and M4 and can handle there power output....

    anyway this build won’t be rushed will be done properly with no short cuts!!

     

    • Like 1

  4. Posted · Report reply

    41 minutes ago, Herbmiester said:

    I say do it build a 600hp engine and then give the middle finger to the Trolls. I know it can be done but as mentioned you will have to beef up the driveline. If you have an early 335i you should have the large diff and that will probably be ok as long as you dont hammer it off the line. That said getting off the line will be tricky, at around 400hp I am already struggling to hook up. I dont know how strong the manual boxes are but the auto will likely reach its torque limit pretty quicly. Nispro in Australia were working on beefed up internals for the ZF box and the have experience here doing similar work on the bigger ZF box that sits behind the excellent Aussie Barra Turbo engine. N54s run warm so look at better options for the radiator and oil cooler/s. New rear sub frame mounts would also be wortwhile.

     

    Thank you for being positive and taking me seriously mate. 

    I aim to beef up everything tbh, it will be done in stages, I have been taking the chassis into account driveshaft and diff.

    supposedly my trans will handle it, I have a 2009 DCT.

    i have a list of mods half of which I have. 

    Currently I’ve looked at internals, twin turbo set up, fueling too! 

    If anyone knows does the 335i have an LSD (and no for the smart arses not acid) 

    thanks again 

  5. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Young Thrash Driver said:

    I see you have met our resident Forum Troll and made friends. How nice. Don't feed him, it only encourages... otherwise, "Ron gunna Ron". Be warned it may take a while for him to realise you are serious now he is on a roll. He is capable of sharing genuinely useful information and ideas (no really) if you are prepared to stop being butthurt and engage intelligently with him. He may even draw you a spreadsheet!

    Good luck.

    Thanks for the advice mate, I will gladly engage intelligent with him but he needs to stop being some what of an arse hole, and I thought it was just the poms (I am one) that we’re those haha! 

    Anyway i am serious about this build so I’ll keep the ones that are genuinely interested in the loop.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    3 minutes ago, 3pedals said:

    I'll take that as a compliment - i'll leave you to answering your own mindnumbingly stupid questions  ( just like Donald does) while I focus on my latest engine build 

    In all honesty they weren’t stupid mind dumbing questions, I was merely after advice and pointers in the right direction due to tuning not being my strong point, and your we’re just being a patronising unhelpful arse hole. You do that and all the best. 

    Some ppl here have helped but other forums have been so much more. It’s a shame, I thought forums are meant to bring people together who share the same passion, obviously not this one. 

    • Like 2

  7. Posted · Report reply

    7 minutes ago, Stevie S said:

    Tuned to 600hp you will have issues even if everything is forged.  Drive train, additional fuel supply, all the other additional parts.  These cars throw many problems at you when stock. If you want trouble free motoring, a 600hp n54 wouldn't be it.  

    Fueling wise I’ll be getting the fuel it stage 4 LPFP and port injection. A lot of the Americans don’t seem to have issues 

  9. Posted · Report reply

    3 hours ago, 3pedals said:

    Why piss about with a measly 600 -- Go hard or go home-  strap two of these on your stock engine - don't worry about all the internal sh*t:  cranks and pistons, just replace the entire motor every 5 minutes - will last longer in traffic and in the garage. 

     

    silly turbo.PNG

    If you’re not going to be helpful, f**k off. Tbh you come across as a middle aged prick, fed up of asking this forum for advice if some of you are going to be no help or give me pointless and unecessary advice. 

     

    • Like 4

  10. Posted · Report reply

    15 hours ago, _ethrty-Andy_ said:

    at which point wouldn't you be better off buying an M3 of a later generation? unless you have a love affair with you particular car.

    I have a love affair buddy!! 

    Plus I want to use what I got, if I were to buy I would want an M4 but this modding plus the value of my car wouldn’t amount to an M4

  11. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Jacko said:

    :lol:

     

    600hp daily?  Have you ever driven a 600hp car? :D 

    Maybe daily means it needs to last for a day? Before pistons come out of the sump plug, or the car comes out of a ditch?

    I don’t think your understanding what my goals are, to make it reliable to the point that wouldn’t happen, so everything forged! 

  12. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Olaf said:

    Oh, I'm good at guessing... and I'm an artist.  With the amount of blank canvas you left me, I can draw a fine landscape.  Oh, you were looking for a sunset!?

    I've no personal experience with the 335, other than a lot of research.  I've looked into them in detail and considered them for me.  Seems that most people rip the cats off, add a tune, and then run into major code and drivability issues.  I decided a 335 is not for me at this time, I'm not after a tweaking project and the 3 series is too small for me as a family car.  YMMV. It would seem to me - applying common sense - that the best place to start is to get one running like a swiss watch on completely stock config with all remedial maintenance resolved first, then start the mods with a clear plan.  

    Good luck with your search.  If you're expecting folks to read between your (scant) lines, you shouldn't be surprised with the poor signal to noise ratio elicited, wildly differing views, and suggestions that don't meet your needs! :)

    Yes you should be good at guessing and if you can draw a fine landscape I expect a flowing river through the middle, with an elegant cascading waterfall to finish off the canvas, I prefer sun rise, so please incorporate that instead of sunset. And I also want a stunning picturesque reflection within the torrent of water flowing into a basin. 

    Ive heard of zero code and drivability issues with them, my car is stock and running like clockwork already. My point is I have a spare engine to work on. So my focus in to do what I can to make it reliably powerful with no issues.

    thanks again 

  13. Posted · Report reply

    5 minutes ago, Palazzo said:

    Your first post pretty much got what it deserved.

    Bm Workshop have experience modifying these motors, so that would be my first port of call.

    Suresh who used to be on here a lot had a well modified example, but nowhere like the number you’re talking, you want 700 plus crank hp and reliability? I say you can have one or the other.

    But please prove me wrong with a project thread, dyno sheet before and after and ongoing maintenance log.

     

    Best of luck with your project.

    Not really if one has some common sense you could read between the lines regarding what I meant. 

    I liaise with them a lot so they are my go to!

    All I will say is the Americans seems to have reliable high power!! Thanks for ppls help, but I guess it was the help I was after, e90posts it is. 

     

     

     

  14. Posted · Report reply

    7 minutes ago, Olaf said:

    If I owned a machine shop and had a bloke walk in looking for a 'bullet proof' engine, I'd politely suggest other specialist race engine builders.  Terms like "bullet proof" would often originate from intended use such as thrashing the arse out of it on a skid pan, possibly stretching the maintenance thin (such as aforementioned running without doubling or quadrupling oil and filter changes in light of heavy usage), and generally wondering why previous engines have failed.  aka "walk away very quickly".

    ON the other hand, if a new customer walked in for a conversation about intended goals and usage, history, looking for recommendations and asking what he could reasonably expect, and having a discussion about budget ranges to acheive an understood goal, things could be different.

    The former would likely damage reputation of my business.  The latter could become a long-term customer.

    The topic was set up in a rush and in a nutshell.

    the car will not be tracked it’s my daily. The reason the previous engine went was due to leaking injector leading to a scorched conrod.

    Autosure provided me with a replacement block and cylinder head, which is currently running stock in the car.

    i now have a spare block, cylinder head and flywheel. 

    I would like to build on what I have strengthen and forge it so it can handle 600whp. I have no idea on what is needed and what’s has to be done to achieve this apart from forged rods and pistons, hence I asked on here. However half of you guys have been no help what so ever.

    i have bought many things to help stay on top of preventative maintenance, it’s not a car I just want to thrash, it’s a car I want to modify and obviously take care of in the process. 

    So please can I have a little more help, rather than stupid links and pictures. 

    Currently I take the car to bm workshop for service and all preventative maintenance work to be done! 

    My goal is 600whp

    use is a daily driver

    Recommendations, advice and help would be much appreciated 

     

    • Like 2

  15. Posted · Report reply

    41 minutes ago, 3pedals said:

    BMW engines are generally bulletproof from the factory - however they are not defect, idiot and moron proof. 

    If it is fully re-built to original spec and conditions it will be fine provided it is maintained correctly - what happens outside that (apart from material failure) the builder cannnot be held accountable for. 

    I would not apply this to U.S built BMW  cars as the work ethic and factory Q.C in the states is crap - specifically the X5. 

    Fair enough I just have a spare engine I want bullet proof Upto the region of 600whp

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