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Simca

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Posts posted by Simca

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Here's the reason that m5 is so rough: it sat outside with the window slightly open for about 3 or so years. Found it there 5 years ago and knocked on the door and the guy didn't want to sell.

     

    At that point it had already been there for 2 years i think because he said it wasn't running right. I told him to at least close the window but he seemed pretty grumpy.

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    • Like 1
    • Sad 6

  6. Posted · Report reply

     

    Up for sale is my 1996 BMW 540i

    I bought this for the BBS RKs it had and thought it would be a fun project to get legal and sell.

    It's got a bunch of AC Schnitzer stuff. It’s got the full kit: front and rear lip, side skirts, mirrors, spoiler, wheels, and it even has the ACS shifter, handbrake, and pedals on the inside. Performance wise it has the AC Schnitzer exhaust, an AC Schnitzer Strut Brace, ACS lowered suspension, and to finish it off it is running an Eibach sway bar at the front and some sway bar on the rear. I have also been told it has an AC Schnitzer tune, but I mean idk if that's actually true I haven't checked.

    In the time I have owned the car I have put a large amount of work into it to get it legal. The car has had a full service, I have replaced the oil, coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and gearbox fluid and have replaced all associated filters along with the fuel filter and cabin filters as well. In addition to this routine maintenance, I have also replaced the front and rear rotors and pads, the alternator, the airbag clock spring, the centre tie rod, and almost all rear suspension arms and bushings, along with having the car aligned.

    The car is an absolute blast to drive, it outperforms and out-handles many lighter cars on the road. (Goes great on track too). It is also, owing to its ACS exhaust, the best sounding v8 I have personally heard in my life.

    The car still has a little bit of love required however. The car has a small amount of rust in the boot area that needs attending, there is a squeak coming from the front left suspension, and it seems like the power steering pump could be on its way out owing to a light whine while driving. Also the glove box is stuck closed and maybe the blower hedgehog is on the way out. In addition to this one its previous owners also decided to paint the engine cover and rocker covers blue.

    The front lip and wheels are unfortunately replica items, however all other ACS parts on the car are genuine. The car will also come with a genuine front lip for repair.

    Looking for somewhere around the 5k mark but am willing to negotiate. I've got more into the car than that but it is what it is and it's gotta go.

     

     

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    • Like 6

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Here's some sounds stuff I wrote up as a message might be useful to anyone with NZ spec e34s coming across this

    I have been doing a mild bit of reading online, from what it seems our NZ spec cars are practically different from all other cars online. At least to my info the Sony headunits were all dealer fitted, rather than put together in Germany, so they all have inherent wiring funkiness.

    Mine went from Sony head unit through RCA to a Sony amplifier that was stuffed somewhere under the dash. This already had a bit of funky wiring, the illumination circuit was abandoned for example for the lights to be always on running off the head unit activation signal. From the small (like 17watt RMS per channel or so) Sony amp through the factory speaker wire into the boot and through the factory amp in the boot. At first I wasn't sure why it was amplified twice, but it is not being amplified twice, the factory Blaupunkt amp had been gutted by the dealership, and was only being used to run the crossovers. At first I thought my car had been f**ked with when they fitted the Clarion head unit and that the POs must have done all the gutting themselves, but the "factory" loom for the Sony that I had gotten was equally f**ky, used the same connectors, and had the Blaupunkt amp gutted as well. From the Blaupunkt amp it went into the speaker circuit like normal. They also ran some Sony CD changer instead of the factory CD changer system.

    My original plan was only to run the head unit off the boot battery (was originally intended for the phone that has been removed) because I thought it would be an incredibly nifty modification, rewire the plugs into an ISO connector so I could always upgrade the head unit later, and then to run the RCA to the back and move the Sony amp to where the CD changer used to be. Then when I had all the wiring out I thought "I mean seeing as the Sony head unit has RCA I might as well run a better amp off it instead". Then I thought, might as well run fatter speaker wire while it's all apart. And then I thought I hate taking the parcel tray out I'll do the speakers while it's all apart.

    The issue still remains that the car has a component speaker system, with woofer and tweeter in rear, and woofer, mid range, and tweeter in front. My plan was to buy speakers with separate, non inline, crossovers so I could run everything still through the factory Blaupunkt crossover system. Ideally in 5 1/4" inch so I would have to do modifications to fit it all. Along the way I realised that maybe running my audio through a thirty year old gutted Blaupunkt amp is never going to give the best sound, and also that 5 1/4" component speakers with external crossovers are not exactly very common in NZ. Not wanting to buy cheaaaap 5 1/4" speakers, and knowing I could get a half decent price on Kicker stuff I bought some Kicker CSS 6.5" component speakers. Now I plan to use the external passive 2 way crossovers that come with the speakers for the rear, and then I bought some 3 way passive crossovers off AliExpress (lol) to run the front speakers. At this point I still have the issue of the mid range speakers in the dash, which are in standard form 2" speakers. I haven't really found any affordable 2" mid range speakers at all. So my options are: either I blast the music through the factory Nokia speaker (which will be doing the majority of the grunt-work being around 1000hz to 5000hz on the Chinese crossovers), I risk it and buy a 2 3/4" mid range speaker (Kicker does some that aren't toooo bad in price) and hope to god I can make it fit, or not run the mid range at all and just run the two way setup (audio engineers on webforums say no to this as the big woofer is blasting directly into our legs and gets muddled and funky and yuck sounding).

    I am doing it in the way I am doing it now so that it will leave a semi decent amount of modularity in the system for later on. People say that passive crossovers are sh*t. Yeah, in an ideal world I'm running my RCA pre out through an active pre amp crossover and amplifying each speaker channel individually with one 6 channel amplifier for the front and one 4 channel amp for the rear and I guess to top it all off a monoblock amp and a sub as well. But I like having money to spend on other things, and I also like having things in my boot without worrying that I take a corner the wrong way and I damage 2500 dollars worth of Audio equipment.

    I'm going to keep the NZ fitted Sony head unit for now, mostly again because I am being a cheap bastard, but also aesthetics. It's most likely going to become the limiting factor in the audio quality, so maybe down the line I upgrade to a modern head unit with 3 high voltage RCA pre outs with USB input for flac music, but I hate the spaceship look of modern head units and don't want to splurge and spend 600 dollars on an old clarion or something funky like that. Maybe I buy a Kenwood, I don't think they look too awful and have an RGB capable display so I should be able to get it to match the interior reasonably well.

    I actually already sort of have my mind made up, I probably will buy a modern Kenwood, and also probably a sub since I've made it this far.

    I have a lot of trouble with project feature creep issues, everything seems to be going steadily to plan but man I do have a tendency to expand on everything I do.

    Anyway here's some pics of the work I've done to fit the 6.5s in the rear. Took some minor dremel work but it will fit:

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    Here's some brackets I have gotten 3d printed by my brother (have yet to try them). One to fit the tweeter onto the rear tray, and one adaptor/spacer to fit the 6.5s into the kick panels, and a smaller one to fit the tweeter into the factory location in the rear (fronts will just glue in):

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    Alright that's about it I think. That's about up to date with the car.

    • Like 3

  11. Posted · Report reply

    A lot has happened over the year and a half that this car has been in my possession. Some parts of it extremely embarrassing, but some I am also quite proud of.

    Around this time last year I went through pulled the cut up head unit wiring loom out of the car, yes the whole thing, and replaced it with that of a less molested car. Wanted that premium factory looking head unit:

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    Some time very close to this I had the whole AC system regassed

    Then I made a fatal mistake and cooked the motor, like proper cooked cooked. Completely my own fault but lets not get into that:

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    Anyway a new motor was acquired, and before I put it in I had the head rebuilt, and gave the engine a general tidy up and paint and replaced all the gaskets:

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    In the same time I have also got some H&R springs for the car:

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    It's been back together now for over 6 months, and I have been doing problem free driving for the whole time. I have noticed that I am getting another small oil leak coming from the front timing cover, and the seals I replaced on the gearbox aren't doing too much, but for my sake that's going to be ignored for now. Since then I have bought a set of BBS RKs for the car (that came with a free e39 540 that I have been working on) and I have now started doing a sounds upgrade (that I will get into in the next post since its quite text based):

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    Yea that's it... Looking for some clear fronts to match the rears, that's about it. Happy with how it looks, and it handles pretty decent too. Do think that the H&Rs are maybe a bit too harsh for me, but I'll ride them out for now.

    • Like 3

  13. Posted · Report reply

    On 9/15/2022 at 3:55 PM, aja540i said:

    Mine was doing this when the heater  motor hedgehog resistor failed, the fan was staying on and stopping the car from sleeping, easy enough to unplug it and see if it changes anything.

    I'll give this a shot as well!

     

    On 9/13/2022 at 11:02 PM, Neal said:

    Have a read from page 18 on the I/K bus for a further understanding 

    http://www.e38.org/bussystem.pdf

     

    Thanks for the info mate. No phone in the car, a guy on facebook told me apparantly there's a way of reading the I-Bus system over USB so I will give that a shot if I can figure it all out. Maybe it's a faulty GM but I really don't want to replace it since it sounds like a fair bit of admin.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    9 hours ago, Kiwi_BMW said:

    I have an intermittent issue with this also, I can park the car and come back several days latter and everything is fine, yet occasionally when I do this I come back a few days latter and the battery is flat.

    I found my resistor for the aux cooling fan was crook, so replaced that and the problem went away for a few months, then it started happening again, I replaced the heater fan resistor and it seemed to remedy the battery drain.

    Six weeks latter I went and started it and took it for a drive, parked it up again, car locked, came back a few days latter battery is dead flat again.

    Quite frustrating, I've fitted a battery disconnect to the neg terminal and when I park it up I just unscrew the disconnect and leave the boot closed but not latched.

    How do you tell if a manual E39 is going to sleep or not, it doesn't have the light beside the shifter 

    I think just leave a door open, interior lights should go out after 16 mins as well. Otherwise put a multimeter between the battery negative and the chassis and check if its drawing less power after 16 mins.

    • Like 1

  15. Posted · Report reply

    I've googled it all. I've read it all.

    Everyone tells you how to test if the car is going into sleep mode, no one really tells you what to do when it's not. Everyone is giving vague answers, and every web forum seems to have their own separate ideas.

    I have left all 4 doors closed, boot closed, glove box closed, with the car unlocked, and come back and still had the shifter light on.

    I have left all 4 doors closed, boot closed, glove box closed, with the car locked, and come back and still had the shifter light on.

    From what I have gathered it is likely something to do with the General module. From some info I have gathered that the car will not go into sleep mode if the general module prevents it from doing so. There are likely two things that can be causing this I think, either a faulty general module, or something like a door or boot module which is still signalling over the I-Bus system even after the car has been shut down. If I am correct every time the General module receives a signal, it resets this timer.

    I have also read some stuff about the FSU, but I feel like this is a red herring, as that seems to contradict the other General module info. Some people also mention the CD changer, my car does have some funky stuff going on with the amp/CD changer/aftermarket Ipod adaptor in the boot, but I am not sure how this ties in with the I-Bus system. I assume there could be potentially signals that go to the radio over I-Bus from the CD changer/Ipod adaptor stuff, but someone please let me know if they have an idea if it does. (I actually wrote this and then ripped all the aftermarket stuff out, including factory amp for now, and it did not make a difference)

    Essentially I am wondering if anyone knows how to diagnose this without just replacing parts at random. Is there a way to "read" the general module, and gather where it is getting signals from? Can I just one by one unplug the modules connecting to the general module to see which is the culprit? (and if so what can I test?).

    If I do end up replacing the general module does it just plug right in or do I need to get it mated to the car (and how)?

    Here's my in post update that takes place about 2 hours after writing the first part:

    Checked some wiring stuff on Newtis. I do definitely believe that the general module is keeping the car awake, since pulling relay 4 immediately shifts the car into sleep mode (shuts off lights and also the fan inside the HVAC panel which was staying on), and relay 4 feeds directly into the general module. Everyone online keeps talking about I-bus stuff, but newtis only really brings up K-Bus on the general module stuff, although it does make mention of I-Bus in passing outside of the wiring diagrams. So much I've figured out so much I've still to find out.

    Low key just considering putting a timer on fuse 4 that shuts off 15 mins after the key is taken out, or a relay on the I-Bus connection that only switches on when the key is in the ignition is on.

    Otherwise I guess I'm just gonna do a bit more reading and see what I can try to unplug, issue is just the 16 minute wait time to check if the car's gone to sleep, really eats into the day very quickly.

  17. Posted · Edited by Simca
    sale details changed     · Report reply

    For sale here is my 2003 e46 BMW 330i

    It's a great car, but it is unfortunately surplus to requirements. Had a good run in it. Quick car that is great to drive, good for a fast daily.

    Just had fresh wof put on, flew through with no issues, chucked 8 months of reg on too

    Mechanically very sound
    Leather interior with electric memory seats
    4 New tyres
    Recently refurbished M-sport 17s
    Serviced regularly
    Factory headunit with aux in retrofit
    Sunroof
    Year long warrant

    Has had a fair bit of work done to it quite recently (within last 10k km):
    New Sachs front shocks
    4 x New tyres
    Refurbished wheels
    Coolant flush and new lower radiator hose.
    Power steering leak fixed
    All oil leaks fixed (new sump gasket, new oil level sender...)
    New rear window winder mechanisms

    If you have any questions, do not hesitate to ask.
    Viewing can be arranged in Napier, feel free to contact me if you want to set something up.

    As a bit more of a genuine part to the post outside of generic for sale stuff, has actually been a really decent car. I dailied it while the e34 was being worked on for sort of six months. Previous owner did a bunch of work to it, and I've done a fair bit to it as well. Outside of the rear window mechanisms and the drivers mirror falling off, I have had 0 issues with the car since I got it legal (which was 2 shocks). Paint is pretty decent, I have recently done a correction on it myself. Has a fair bit of stone chips on the front but the shine is very great. Interior is pretty decent, drivers seat has a tear at the seam but not very noticeable, and PO cut the fraying top of the wheel off, not much can be done about that now. New tyres and wheels are due to selling the BBS RKs it had to my mate, they're in quite decent nick and look pretty much new.

    Have it on TradeMe for $4750 will let it go here for $4000

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    • Like 1

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Looking at doing the headliner in my e39 sedan, anyone have any recommendations for cloth locally in NZ. Will check local upholsterers but maybe something nationally that anyone has had good results with?

    Also looking for recommendations on headliner glues, and maybe if anyone has a good guide to follow since I'm feeling a bit lazy.

    Cheers

  21. Posted · Report reply

    10 hours ago, moe said:

    Found this if it helps 

     

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    I believe those bits are for the Air Con system which is separate. Thanks so much, I do appreciate the help. I believe the tensioner itself is the same as on the alternator setup, so if I do end up having to piece it all together I'll get in touch. Having a mate check a yard in Auckland tomorrow that might have some bits.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Ok so, what I need is: 

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    Almost everything on this picture.

    2 - 11281742013 - Adjusting bracket with pulley
    6 - 11281704500 - 70mm Deflection pulley
    7 - 07119900236 - Bolt (think this ones fatter than a normal bolt for the bearing stuff
    8 - 11281727159 - Cap
    9 - 11281704935 - Tension adjust lever (this one I think I'll have the hardest time finding)
    12 - 11281736857 - Belt tensioner (this ones just expensive new)
     

    the bolts I think I can size up and get locally, maybe I can get the pulleys too but I'll have to do some research. The small adjuster lever bracket is what's scaring me, not a lot of availability around for those.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Hey guys

    Just bought this early (non vanos) e39 540i. Previous owner took a stab at replacing the alternator and lost the belt tensioner and idler pulley and essentially everything to hold it in and the bolts for the alternator.

    Sort of almost looking for someone parting out a whole non vanos m62, so i can grab all the alternator belt stuff from it to save myself from spending years trying to accumulate everything.

    Any leads would be appreciated

    Cheers

    Quinn

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