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blake12

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Posts posted by blake12


  1. On 11/23/2019 at 11:42 AM, EurolessNoMore said:

    Crazy how cheap these things are... 

    Does that make them a good candidate for a future classic?

    E30's were junk for a while, now an Mtech2 is worth more than a 500hp super car. 

    I'm pretty sure mitsubishi gto are a future classic, perhaps these are also for the same reasons.

    Can't see any e60 being a classic, regardless of v10. They just look terrible. 


  2. No need for JB4 since MHD if you just looking at 350-400whp
    You'll need a charge pipe btw, the plastic one explodes when you up the boost - not expensive 

    The dual cone intakes are pointless unless you want the induction sound. Pretty sure there's no gains unless your doing single turbo 500+ hp kinda builds. 
    If anything all it means is your sucking in hot air


  3. Couldn't find anything on here regarding the XHP tune when I searched, was looking for members opinions. 
    So thought I would post mine. 

    I tuned stage 2 on Tuesday, and for me personally, this is possibly the best "mod" I have made to the car.
    Im on MHD1+, catted dp's etc. - and while the extra power is nice, it's not that usable all the time. 
    The xhp tune however makes every aspect of driving the car better. Drive mode is sooo much smoother now.
    Gone are the sometimes jolty changes with the car is cold. Every change is smoother and the shift points are better for me. I'll definitely be using less gass. 

    Swapping to manual and the speed in changes is amazing! The car pulls off from a stop so surely now, no more sluggish feeling.
    No more dropping to 1st by itself as im mid roundabout and making a racket. 
    Throttle blipping on downshifts is glorious. 

    No point in this post other to say, if you've been driving a e90 for a while and are really accustomed to it's nature, you'll notice a massive improvement with this flash. 

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  4. FYI If I remember correctly MHD recommends you don't run burble on hard for normal street driving. 
    I didn't drop oil for a year, then run the burble for about a week and had smoke out the exhaust and oil needing a topup almost every 100 km's or so. 
    Maybe it was a coincidence but since I reflashed without burble I have had 0 issues again. 
    If you have catless DP's you should get a nice amount of burble on acceleration, without all the fake pops and bangs after you let off. 


  5. Down pipes will throw a light with no tune but it won't matter. With any MHD tune regardless of stage, you won't have that issue. 
    Downpipes don't do a huge amount for performance unless you are planning on going to 2 upwards. 

    Make sure to get a quote before install. My shop ended up taking hours longer than they anticipated

    • Like 1

  6. Had bridgestone swap mine here in CHCH to potenza re003. They were very specific that all four needed to be done at same time legally, as I initially just wanted to start with the two rear and leave the run flats on the front. 

    But certainly no problem in swapping all out. Even with full bolt ons, tunes etc. the tyre replacement is BY FAR the best change to this car I have made. The difference is night and day. Maybe those run flats are ok on perfect sections of the autobahn, but round Christchurch streets they were so bad I almost thought something was wrong with the car. 

    I brought a BMW pando kit for about $150 and have that in the boot encase I ever need it. 

    • Like 1

  7. On 12/17/2018 at 12:42 PM, jamesmcd said:

    Any issues with Check Engine lights or other fault codes?

    Not with MHD tune. It disables the check. Without it you will have a light show but it shouldn't matter. 
    The sound wont be an issue at all on stock exhaust. 

    They claim power increase just from the downpipes, but I didn't notice much. Just seems like the turbos spool up abit easier. 
    If your not on MHD start with that. The difference from stock to 1+/2 is massive. Feels like a different car, and a true animal. 

    If you just want power, your order of mods depends on how much you want but generally :
    stronger chargepipe and MHD 1/1+ 
    bigger intercooler if you are on 1+ doing alot of pulls in hot weather, or tracking 
    downpipes and MHD 2/2+ . You should be nearing 380-390hp at the wheels here. 
    Then probably e85.

    I have downpipes and chargepipe installed, but am just back to running the standard MHD stage 1 tune now. I find it more than powerful for daily driving. I found I started wishing for a LSD and better suspension at stage 2, and decided to reign it in because it's a cruiser, not a track car. 


  8. I got VRSF ones delivered for under $400 nz from their website. 

    Keep in mind that the mechanic fee will likely be upwards of $4-500 depending on how easy it is. They are c**ts to put on. 
    I paid 8 hours labour to get mine installed with some sparkplugs -_- . do it yourself if you can be bothered. 
    I could never hear my rattly wastegates but as soon as the downpipes went on I could here them really loud on idle and cold start. 

    The reason for running catless downpipes is so you can up the boost and run MHD stage 2 or higher. 
    With a stock exhaust there is basically no difference to sound, definitely no pops and bangs or anything. It's just a slightly deeper sound with them on, but not louder with stock exhaust. 
    You do hear the turbos spool abit louder with catless dp's. 

    You can flash burble mod if you want pops and bangs - at your own risk. 
    If all your after is pops and bangs you don't need downpipes, just flash the burble on aggressive. You'll likely mess your cats up pretty quick and some people argue it's terrible for your turbos. 

    If it sounds like my view on the downpipes is negative, it's not, they are great bang for buck and really open up the car for tuning potential. 
    I just don't think there is any point in them if your not going to run MHD 2/2+, or a custom tune. Putting that much boost through the car WILL show other weaknesses if there are any. 

    • Like 1

  9. Seeing the only reason this car is 28k is because of the mileage, but the fact that it's been modded probably means it's been thrashed abit, and it's still 10 years old - and the mileage isn't so important, I can't see the justification in that price. 

    I paid $13k for a 70,000km 2008 335i almost a year ago. Completely mint with all options. It would never have given me any issues if I hadn't had tuned it. 
    BUT, as soon as you wind the boost up, thing's start to show their weakness. 30-70,000km is when things will fail under the higher pressure.  

    TBH I just can't see how this car is worth more than 17-18k 

    • Like 1

  10. On 10/17/2018 at 3:19 PM, KwS said:

    My 335i is more exciting than my E36 M3 ever was, not to mention faster, and if i modified the exhaust, it'd sound better. Nothing at all wrong with going turbo. The N54/N55 is a very good engine, despite its unreliability.

    How is it more exciting? In a straight line? 

    I found my old 200 horsepower fwd honda more exciting than my 335i on MD stage 2! Steering feel, road feedback, noise, engagement etc. 

    I don't see how a 335i can be labelled an exciting car  unless you've completely revamped the suspension, the exhaust and added a LSD 


  11. On 9/28/2018 at 3:35 PM, SteveArmy90 said:

     

    2005 K20A Accord Euro R

    Now this.

    I literally went, last year, from a 2005 k20a euro r to a 335i. 

    Once you get your car/car running, you will certainly enjoy the difference. 

    I can't believe I used to think the euro r was fast. To be fair, it was much more engaging when on spirited drives. Nothing like a high reving na engine mated with manual. For everything else the 135/335i just has it beat. 

    • Like 2
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