kliemax

Checked the shocks when i cut down the bump stops, they were firm taking me around 10 seconds to push down enough to get under the shock tower in rear. I'm no expert but i think they are fine for now. No leaks or damage that i could see

I remeasured it before cutting down the bump stops, ride height was the same so i was wrong here

Thanks Eagle, i will trim my bump stops this weekend and see if that makes a difference

I could do but to be honest but that would only tell me if i was miss guided when i bought E90 M sport rear springs that came labelled with "135" This car has M3 or M3 style thicker springs. I have checked on real OEM before making this post however they do not have a spring for car matching my shock. I was hoping that someone here might just know what they are / should be

I took off passenger rear wheel to get some better photos. I'm hoping someone has done this before and can spot something wrong with it Spring / shock mount is that arm upside down? Is anyone familiar with this Mod? Sub frame mountings - could these alter the ride height / suspension travel? Looking from rear, spring mount shock sway bar

Yes car has had an alignment. Will be due a new one soon but will wait until i finish making changes

Hi Guys, hoping someone could help me with the rear suspension on my 2007 E90 335i. The ride is rough and you can feel the rear suspension bottoming out on any moderate bump (on Hamilton roads it bottoms out at least once per minute) Car has had the M3 rear camber arm upgrade taking the parts from an E90 M3 - this was done by a previous owner in Japan. Would anyone here know the standard length of an OEM M3 spring for an E90 Sedan? I have been struggling to find this information I measured the springs that are currently in my car - they are 330 MM. I am hoping that my spring is a badly match lowering spring and that an OEM M3 spring will lift the rear 20MM or more to give it the travel it needs. Recently i replaced the bump stops as they were buggered, one was missing and the other was hanging on by a thread. Since doing this it has lifted the car slightly but increased how often it bottomed out. The bump stops were the matching part for shock 3352228431001 which is on the car. As this is the correct OEM part i assume this is not cause of the issue. Can anything think of another reason what would cause this to bottom out? Pic 1 left is an Msport spring from a 135i ( i was told same as an 335i spring) and right, the spring in my car, same height but is significantly ticker / larger diameter Pic 2 M3 rear spring in car model 3352228431001 Pic 3 M3 caber arm

Sounds like he can do the non LCL idrive systems (the ones with just "menu' button) We sent the 135 there and he had no luck as well

I need to get a ALU charge pipe at some stage and have been looking into how it do it. Do you have to use a BOV? Seems like everyone does but i would rather not use one if you don't have to. Will the factory waste gates work with ALU pipe?

I bought the part from BMW for $80 and put it on my self after looking at a how to on youtube. it only took me 10 minutes do my self. Make sure you look at someones video that actually knows what they are doing - put both ends in first then pull the adhesive cover off once you have the trim piece in place This guy had it right , start watching from 3.30

Trendz Car Audio Hamilton, was 420 including a new battery, from memory it was around $130 which i thought was good Standard plastic charge pipe. I will leave it as is unless it breaks I got some M sport e90 rear springs and put them in on Tuesday. Car had knocking in the rear. Removed and went back to the old spring on Wednesday Looking at the spring it was same length as the orginal one in the car but not as wide. I am assuming this is an M3 spring? (photo M sport spring is left, one from car is on right) Looking at the spring cap that goes into the body of the car, there was enough gap to put two fingers in. I figure this was the cause of the knocking Looking at some of these cars i believe car has had a M3 style swap. The caber arm or lower arm is aluminum and has the horizontal through bolt to mount the shock. A standard 335 should have pressed steel and the shocking mounting by nut on bottom My concern with the handling is the rear bottoming out / hitting bump stops. This happens either when i am pushing the car or have passengers in the rear. My bump stops are disintegrating I'm going to do some research into this and see what i can change to improve this One day i might get the dual cone intakes, does that make it much loader?

Hello all, new to the forum and new to euro cars / Bmw's Bought this 07 335i e90 (not a M sport) in May here Hamilton and have been loving it even even with the few issues i have had The power of this car incredible, half throttle will light the rears and have the car matching the speed limit in a few seconds. My father drove it once before going out and buying himself a 135i a couple of weeks later Car is a Jap import and I am first NZ owner. Being a Japanese import car no history is known Have done a few things so far; Replaced front windscreen rubber, battery and had radio reprogrammed to NZ Still have to get air con condenser replaced and sort out the rear suspension / ride quality. The ride is rougher than i would like and the rear suspension has bottomed several times l took this to BMW yesterday to look at the suspension , they put it up on the lift and were surprised with the under neath. Front and rear sway bars (both adjustable), springs, front swing arms, most bushings and extra frame bracing I am looking for a set of OEM rear springs to see if that will help rear bottoming out. Currently the wheels are sitting just in feeders in the rear so there must not be much travel left. Has anyone had experience with this? As someone has spent a lot time / Money modifying this car i wonder if they would have touched the ECU? Would there even be any way to check this without putting the car on a dyno or taking it into BMW?