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mincePy

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Posts posted by mincePy


  1. Updated:

    Have just found the front seat switches in a storage box - so these are included now. Arrows on the buttons are a bit faded as you'd expect, and 3 of the 4 spring clips to hold the switch assembly in the centre console have broken (see pictures). Have tested continuity across all switches and they're operational. All you should need now is a bit of wiring.

    Looking to flick the lot, including switches, for $350.

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  2. Front and rear full electric buffalo leather seats out of an e23. I have had these in storage since 2019 after purchasing for a project but never installed. There are mixed posts online about these fitting e28s as well, with a bit of adjustment, but don't hold me to that.

    Electrics

    All seats are electric - including the rear (forwards and back motion).

    • One motor in the driver's seat is not working - appears to be shorting out or ceased (e.g., it is drawing current, not moving)
    • The seat raising motor in the driver's seat is working but no movement. Can hear the cable clattering a bit - so, suspect the issue is in the cable drive.
    • ALL other motors and drive cables work on all seats. Note, I have only tested the motors directly - not the control box with microswitches.
    • Switches for the rear seats are in the centre seat (pictured), behind your knees if you were sitting on the seat as opposed to in the pull down rear centre console.

    Door Cards

    Three of the four door cards are in the condition you might expect for their age. The last door card is bent out of shape. 

    Seats

    • These have been stored inside and periodically cleaned and conditioned. There are many posts online about restoring these back to their old glory - either with a fair bit of hard work and/or by dying the leather.
    • Both rear backrests have tears in the stitching as pictured. The undersides of all seats are pictured, showing rust on the mounts - not surprising given the common water leaks in the e23.
    • Not sure what happened with the plug surrounds from the drivers seat, but easy enough to replace.
    • Seats are otherwise surprisingly comfortable for their age!

    Pictures

    Have chucked these into a few Google photo albums:

    Price

    These are getting harder and harder to find in a usable and working condition, but I appreciate there's a bit of work needed to get these up to scratch (depending on your definition of up to scratch!). I no longer have a vehicle for these and need their storage space* back, so all things considered I think a reasonable ask for everything is ~$600.

     

    * the partner wants the spare room back ...


  3. I have a set of new genuine BMW e23 bonnet lining pads / sound absorbers for the underside of the bonnet. Purchased these for my now-gone restoration project. Have been stored inside for months. Asking $150 for the set. Pick up in Birkenhead, Auckland.

    Part numbers:

    Left side: 51-48-1-852-353

    Right side: 51-48-1-852-354

    Middle: 51-48-1-852-355

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  4. In light of this...

     

    ... I have lost energy for my original restoration project and am now selling the donor car. I picked this up about 4 years ago in bad shape with the intention of sacrificing it for parts if necessary. That never really happened, so now just want it gone.

    Points:

    • Rego is still on hold - plate ZL6061.
    • Was running up until a month ago - sounds like starter as won't crank at all.
    • Feels like the brake bomb is gone - pedal goes to the floor.
    • Exhaust was leaking somewhere.
    • Several deep rust spots (pictured).
    • Dashboard is cracked at the top, and instrument cluster mould damaged.
    • Has leak into interior somewhere - usually the heater box on these.
    • Rear bumper not pictured but I do have it.
    • No bonnet shocks.
    • No rear speakers.

    Would suit as spare parts, a paddock beater, a generator for the next Auckland storm, or a garden ornament.

    Selling entire car only (not parting). Will need to be towed (North Shore, Auckland).

    Seeing if there is any interest here before I try TradeMe etc.

    Really not sure what it's worth. I figure someone could make a few grand if they sat on it and patiently parted out. I just want it gone, but there is value there. So I guess I'm after ~$1k. Tell me I'm unreasonable?

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  5. Well, sh*t.

    Car has been at the painters. Just got the call the shop was completely flooded on Friday. Owner has lost it all. Car was almost completely submerged. Could salvage by sandblasting it all and starting again, with a big budget increase but no warranty.

    Sigh.

    • Sad 5

  6. Well, been a while...

    Moved to London in 2019, pandemic hit, came home, etc.

    Project now back on track. Ended up with an M90 and going with B35 head, trying to lock down custom 10:1 pistons (a challenge to sort out...). Motor and head in machine shop.

    Rest of the paint being done in June. Some of the original interior work has developed surface rust, not particularly happy about it but hey.

    Now deciding what to do re: engine management. Motronic 1.3 conversion seems a good idea, though plenty of folks have gone to Megasquirt. Not sure there's much benefit going MS on a naturally aspirated motor.

    • Like 2

  7. For context - the M90 engine is a 3453cc variant of the M30 from the late 70's to early 80's with the shorter stroke (84mm) and wider bore (93.4mm) than the standard M30.

    Trying to ignore what’s going on with gas prices right now …

    I have my M90 engine in at the machine shop being rebuilt. The cylinders are worn to about 93.9mm, and the head is cracked (original M90 head). I already have a B35 head that has tested well, so I am considering going to 94mm bore with the B35 head (if I can track down intake, TBs, crank balancer etc.).

    I’ve seen plenty of folks talk about doing this – boring the M90 to 94mm, using VW forged pistons or JE customs. Slapping on the B35 head will lower compression if you don’t go custom pistons – I’ve read compression drops from 9.3:1 to anywhere between 9.0:1 – 7.5:1 ish. I’m fairly open but it does seem that using the B35 head, with the larger valves and better flow, is a good option granted I get custom pistons (I want to keep this NA so not interested in turbo).

    Even though this has been done many times before, I can’t really find how folks are determining the shape and/or compression height of what customs pistons should be so that compression isn’t lowered too much. Paul Burke used to make pistons for this exact application, but I understand he’s long out of the game now.

    Then again – would I even notice the compression drop, especially with the overbore?

    Interested in people’s thoughts…


  8. On 11/28/2018 at 9:30 PM, Mad_Max said:

    Hey man, if you have or are going to strip the dashboard out, I would love the 2 wiring looms from it. Got my 735iL with a wiring issue under the dashdash and it may be easier just to replace the whole thing.

    If you don't want to strip it that much then that's all good ?. There's no real urgency either.

    Hey man - sorry for the super slow reply! I don't think I need the loom though I haven't yet pulled out the dash nor wired up my project sorry - happy to come back to you when I have but might be a while!


  9. I bought a 728i version E23 about a month ago to serve as my parts car for my build (link below). There's plenty off this car I won't be using so if anyone is after E23 parts let me know. Car is currently running and in reasonable condition given the age.

    Last 7 digits of VIN are 4476296.

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    • Like 1

  10. 3 hours ago, BM WORLD said:

    just a good e34 535i  e32 735i engine will do the trick 

    bolt in and hook up etc

    That was the original thinking (the engine I have now is from an E32 735i) though I'm not getting much luck finding a second hand one..

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