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DreDurk

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Posts posted by DreDurk

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Rego : LSH524

    Hey team.

    Im needing to replace all my front bushings, my right side needs it most but I may as well replace  all left and right. 

    Could 1 simply quote the part numbers for each individual bushing for my model car as I am unsure about this and want to be confident when completing the purchase. And also to answer why is Lemforder bushings cheaper than the Genuine BMW? I thought Lemforder manufactured the OE bushings? BMW bushings charge $77 and Lemforder $23 (USD via FCPEURO)  any answers to this would clear up my curiosity.
     

    I’ll keep my stock arms for the time being as I know M3 arms are a decent upgrade. But I’m focused on the maintenance first.

    Help is much appreciated.
     

  6. Posted · Report reply

    29 minutes ago, Jacko said:

    Control arm comes with bushings and the ball joint on the other end installed.

    If you want an upgrade, upgrading them to the M3 part is the way to go. 

    I’m not looking to spend large amounts on new M3 arms, just decent bushings for a weekend drive.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Needing advice!!

    Would anyone know the exact bushing for this arm. RH bushing. Needing to replace ASAP as it has worn out, just by physically moving it with my hand shows. The ride of this is not nice atm, rocks when entering reverse etc. What other bushings should I be looking at replacing if the RH bushing needs replacing ?

     

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  11. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, M3AN said:

    I thought the first action DSC took was reducing power, followed by applying the brakes? I certainly know DSC can control engine output so I wouldn't be too quick to rule it out.

    @DreDurk - that's a lot of codes... keep a copy, clear them all, start car, stop car, check codes, keep a copy, clear all codes, go for a drive (to the point where the car is at operating temp) and then check codes again... what are you left with?

    Obviously only take if for a drive if it sounds okay.

    Cheers for the info man, appreciate it and I’ll keep you updated via this thread. 
    Also, could the type of fuel company im using effect this? I mainly use waitomo, 91, I’ve heard these places use 10% ethanol blend? Which could be why it’s so dirt cheap most times? 

  12. Posted · Report reply

    10 minutes ago, Driftit said:

    Oh right. That's the DSC (stability control) . Shouldn't get a loss of power from that at all. 

    Still something you should look into though. No ABS light on? 

    This has all happened within the 10th of July this year. Sutherland Performance wellington scanned my car and nothing came up. No check engine light until I got halfway on my trip up north. (Which was a fright) only maintenance some was install new battery...n check my suspension n came back with my RH control arm bush is worn.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Just now, Driftit said:

    Oh right. That's the DSC (stability control) . Shouldn't get a loss of power from that at all. 

    Still something you should look into though. No ABS light on? 

    No ABS light, but vividly remember it popping up a couple times a few months ago. But that was when I had my old battery which had a bad battery cell. I was removing it from my car to trickle charge it every 2-3 days. Could my IBS be it? There are other faults too (as of today’s date) but 99% of these faults are electrical issues. F70B1001-B8CD-4A59-BF02-8B0763504753.thumb.png.e88f0c93812fb1a831577d029c778203.pngF70B1001-B8CD-4A59-BF02-8B0763504753.thumb.png.e88f0c93812fb1a831577d029c778203.png

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  14. Posted · Report reply

    On 7/29/2020 at 5:53 PM, Driftit said:

    I have no loss of power. But a loss of power would result in a code of some kind.

    If the hiccups are actually misfires you will have a code. The Vanos and valvetronic motor will also both throw codes and will both cause a loss of power. 

    Only reason mine wasn't throwing codes was because it was actually the Torque converter playing up. 

    As others have said get someone with INPA or ISTA to scan the car. 

    I got this scan back with my own. Both right n left front speed sensors have triggered too. 

    4ACC3A79-758F-4358-B495-8AEFE4384456.jpeg

  15. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, M3AN said:

    That's ^ a digital terrestrial TV controller, see the links below. Unfortunately it looks like there's a lot more than just the box you pictured so unwinding it all back out of the vehicle might be a nightmare.

    https://www.croooober.com/en/item/cparts/00000121/Digital-Tuners-Full-Seg/8922715/DataSystem-Hi-Vision-HIT-7700

    http://yahoo.aleado.com/lot?auctionID=n278361884

     

    I’ve pulled out what I can. I’m not an auto electrician expert so I assume it’s best to get it professionally pulled out before I get my head unit changed into an aftermarket one. When installing an aftermarket Unit does the original CCC get pulled out or does the aftermarket need CCC to function? 

  16. Posted · Report reply

    9 hours ago, F10er said:

    Sounds like your CCC could be dead and causing a current draw. It really needs to be diagnosed properly though. Maybe you should take it to a BMW specialist and ask them to diagnose it. 

    Yes I have known my CCC is dead and this is most likely the cause. I will take to bmw specialist. Another annoying thing is as the car being a Japanese Import from 2018. The owner then had installed a BMW Japan interface into the iDrive. I’ll attach some photos below of what I pulled out of what was in the fuse box compartment and in the boot. 

    image.jpg

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Make: BMW

    Model: 325i

    Year: 2006

    Chassis: E90

    Ran a scan on my car today and Power Management code 002DED. My car has recently had a new battery installed to be exact 10/07/20 Century DIN 75ZLMF Battery. I was told to install a DIN 66. But mechanic said DIN 75 would be best. I knew my car never went to sleep as my centre DVD consoles lights still illuminate n make a funny noise only when engine is off. Sometimes it will turn off on some nights. As my iDrive Navigator Display is not working. Could this cause this code popping up?

  18. Posted · Report reply

    33 minutes ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

    Have you had it scanned ?.....Note: Fault codes and live data, not just a "P" code reader list

    Recently had it scanned 2 Friday’s ago. Nothing came up, got it scanned as I had a long road trip that weekend. Made sure it was okay before. I have recently bought myself a scanner but in transit...

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Hey

    My N52 E90 has been having issues. 
    Could most likely be VANOS solenoid. I have been cleaning these multiple times in the last month. Worked the first time but recently it has got worst. Looking at buying 2 new. But could there be anything else.???

    EXAMPLE OF POWER LOSS

    Car likes the stay within 2k rpms when cruising and has serious hiccups when increasing and decreasing speeds. When shifting into DS the car rpms go from 2000 to 3500-4000 within a blink. Car idles around 600 which I have seen is normal. Starts up perfectly fine. Yesterday I took out the VANOS solenoid I the morning (Car hasnt started up yet) to check again and the oil was black n smelt burnt. I am changing this within a few days. But this is a first with it being dark n burnt smell.

    Any ideas guys what might be the issue besides VANOS?. 
    All help is appreciated.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    4 hours ago, Driftit said:

    Is there any height difference between left and right front of the car?  

    I recall where the shocks are mounted is slotted with a pin/bolt that holds the camber.  Though the camber adjustment there is quite limited.

    This is a 1 series.  But I am pretty sure the E9* series is the same.  The hole at the top right is where there is usually a bolt to stop any adjustment.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=515038&stc=1

    Checked all structural parts here are some pics below. 
    I cannot see any damage besides those little ball bearings in strut tower? (Please explain what this is) 

    car is at 12.5cm height both sides. No difference there.

    cheers!!

    96AEABD8-5E2F-4F8E-8B51-196782CF6646.jpeg

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  22. Posted · Report reply

    31 minutes ago, Driftit said:

    Is there any height difference between left and right front of the car?  

    I recall where the shocks are mounted is slotted with a pin/bolt that holds the camber.  Though the camber adjustment there is quite limited.

    This is a 1 series.  But I am pretty sure the E9* series is the same.  The hole at the top right is where there is usually a bolt to stop any adjustment.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=515038&stc=1

    I didn’t exactly check the height difference but all there I will check over when I get home tonight. I’ll lift it up and check the top ball joints too.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    19 minutes ago, Driftit said:

    Sounds like something has collapsed.  You should be able to visibly see if any of the ball joints are broken.
    It's unlikely anything is bent unless you hit something.
    Nothing down there can adjust itself it that way.  Something has failed.

    I lifted the car up this morning and no sign of any broken ball joints from what I’ve seen online. I drove about 20mins after the incident happened last night and there is no vibrations anywhere in the car and no swaying. I did this by letting go of the wheel gently for 5 or more seconds. But my car is getting checked for a check engine light this Friday at Sutherland performance in Wellington. They should find it.

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