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PFS

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About PFS

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    1st Gear

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  • Name
    Ian Campbell
  • Location
    Auckland, NZ
  • Car
    Mitsubishi Lancer Evo

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    http://www.pfs.co.nz
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  1. The primary reason for avoiding the use of sponges is that the 'flat' surface of the sponge traps the dirt & grit that is on the car against the paint surface as you move the sponge over the panel. This is what causes the majority of swirl marks and minor scratches. (followed closely by using a single bucket, instead of having a separate one to rinse out the dirty mitt, as the OP mentions) Lambswool is best - deep pile microfibre also works - the trick is having a mitt that allows the dirt to be drawn away from the paint as you wash. (And ensure that you keep the mitt clean by rinsing it out after at least each panel) The 'Paint Cleaner' in the Meguiars product range performs the same function as a clay bar. Its primary job is to remove bonded contamination like tree sap, bug remains, tar spots, industrial fallout, etc. from the paint. (actually, it goes a little further than the claybar and also removes oxidised paint as well) The whole point of the clay bar / paint cleaner step is to ensure that you have a paint surface that is properly prepared for polishing. To get the best possible results, you need the paint to be perfectly flat so that the polishing pad can effectively 'work' (break down) the polishing compound. Also, regardless whether you're polishing by hand, or by machine - if any contamination gets picked up by your polishing pad, it's just going to cause further scratches to the paint as you work. Great post IMHO ...definitely worth a sticky. The principles are spot on - it doesn't often get any more complex than that - the key is to maintain clean tools throughout. (Be that your wash mitt, your drying towel, your claybar, your polishing pad, or your wax applicator) ...if you drop any of them on the ground, do not be tempted to pick it back up and keep going - get a fresh one. (if it's a claybar - sorry, you'll need to bin it) ...only one minor point that i'd change is the use of a chamois - these can be pretty 'scratchy' - even if they're well maintained - I prefer the use of a purpose-made microfibre drying towel. (Meguiars have a couple of options if you wish to stick with their products) Keep it sparkling guys
  2. Hi Fixing buffer trails is generally a matter of using the same tools & products that caused the problems in the first place, but ensuring that correct technique and 'methodology' is used throughout. You still use a machine polisher (normally rotary, or dual action orbital type) and a cutting/compounding product on a reasonably aggressive foam pad. But there are many ways that this can leave trails behind... Using too harsh a compound on 'soft' paint Not having a perfectly clean and smooth painted surface Contamination (ie. Dirt getting onto) the polishing pad Failing to 'work' the polish for a long enough time to properly 'break down' the abrasives in it Working on too large an area at one time Failing to refine the surface of the paint afterwards with a finishing polish ...actually, the list is pretty long - i won't go into everything ;-) ...sometimes, it's really, really bad: ...and sometimes, (more often that you'd like unfortunately) even the top marque car dealers get it wrong. (The 'streaks' up the bonnet, although fainter and showing a more uniform pattern, are in fact the same thing type of defect as shown on the Red Celica's bonnet) But seeing as this is a thread about mint paint Here are some 'happily ever after' photos of that BMW... Keep those cars sparkling!
  3. I can't claim to own this one, but I did clean it up & take the pics I took this picture to try to illustrate what can go 'wrong' when someone machine polishes a vehicle without a clear understanding of the process. (Or are forced to work to an unrealistic deadline or budget) At this stage, I have already corrected the front door, but the rear door shows heavy "buffer trails" from overly aggressive machining without refinement. (as well as regular swirl marks & scratches) All too often, paint defects such as these are simply disguised/covered with a coat of wax before the vehicle leaves the dealer or car wash, with the unsuspecting owner left none the wiser. (until a few washes later of course) ...but, with a little work, the panel comes up nicely Almost an "invisible car" ...faithfully reflecting just how dirty my garage door is! She was a big girl, but a stunner none the less! Cheers.
  4. Great advice there. Generally speaking, you would want to be taking a claybar to your vehicle once a year - more often if it isn't kept in a garage. Still, it's not uncommon for brand new vehicles to have bonded contaminants on their panels, and you may be surprised how much a 'Mild' claybar will remove from what looks like clean paint. But the key piece of advice is to avoid inflicting swirlmarks & scratches by using deep pile wash mitts, and keeping your dirty rinse water separate from your shampoo solution in a 2nd bucket. Then keep your paint protected with a quality sealant or wax. (don't confuse this with 'polishing' though - "polish" and "wax" are completely different processes) Ultimately, there are numerous 'good quality' products that can be used to get fantastic results, but even the 'best' product used inappropriately will result in a substandard finish. All the best!
  5. Hi Scott (and also, Hello BimmerSport!) Thank you very much for the kind words, and thanks giving us the opportunity to work our magic on your new car. I'm very happy to see that you're stoked with the end result Put simply, I mis-quoted when you first brought the vehicle in to discuss options. Nobody's fault but my own, so it wouldn't have been fair to ask you to wear an unexpected price increase. If anyone has any questions about this detail, or about the best way to maintain their own vehicles - I'm more than happy to assist where I can. DIY is entirely possible (and in our experience, incredibly rewarding) but care does need to be taken to ensure that one doesn't do more harm than good! Of course (as alluded to above) there is also quite a high up-front cost to purchase the necessary tools & product. We don't sell any goods at this time, but can provide recommendadions and feedback on our experiences with various different products. Thanks again, Ian.
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