brad91

Probably going to be easier and more accurate (for motorsport applicatons) to run an aftermarket water temp guage then? The old cluser would sit on dead cold all the time. It was a good 6 months ago now but for memory i replaced the SI board and unbolted all my origional gauges (so i could keep the 160000km's) and screwed them into the new gauge surround/glass with the new SI board

Hey guys. When i got my car my temp guage and tacho didnt work. Replaced cluster and tacho works however now the temp guage is on full hot right from when you start the car. I need to move the car (about 4km's) tonight and my car trailer is still pulled apart. How can i tell if the car is getting hot or not? Ive never really driven the car before to find out if it gets hot or not and dont want to do any damage. It has the light check board and overheat light near the rear vision mirror. Will this be on a seperate circuit as it doesnt light up when the temp gauge goes hot. Also any idea on how i can fix it? Thanks Brad

Hey guys. Recently picked up a heap of spares for my old e30. Been a while since ive touched it as ive been trying to sort my car for the drift series this year but im about to get back into it. Parts i picked up are: -b23 block with perfect condition crank -731 head in perfect condition -apparently a mild cam -2 x wiring looms with ecu's (l-jet unfortunatly) -2 getrag 240 boxes -individual throttle bodies that just need the manifold welded up and a few holes drilled -tail shaft -complete motor (unsure of what motor it is) Now i got told the block was a 2.7 stroker however upon getting it home and measuring i realised its a standard b23 crank. It has no marks or anything on the bearing journals so im thinking about just putting this in place of my b20 crank and not changing a thing for the moment. Would this see any more than the normal 139hp the L-jet b23 makes? I pulled the head off the other motor the other day and its seized big time. Bore is completely rusted however it is still full of oil so im hoping the crank is ok however i havnt had a chance to seperate the box off the back and pull the motor down completely. The bore in the motor is the standard b20/23 bore however the stroke is measuring 81mm in its current seized position with 4 pistons at 81mm and 2 with 15mm before they get to the top of the block. Could this be a bigger crank than a 2.7L at all? Or is it likely just to have snapped rods and be rubbish? haha

i agree with above about fixing your car while mates are out having fun...however for those few hours my car is running it seams worth it for some crazy reason haha. If you want a bit more power why not just go for basic 2.7 or something like i was planning?

Was gona say that sounds like a pain lol. Put motor together, run motor, pull motor apart, tighten, put motor together :S I would have thought it would just be a specific torque setting though?

That sounds like a lot of work lol. So you cant torque down the head with it out of the car? Im assuming that you should be able to get the the head bolts with the cams still in? And is this the same on a b20?

thats what i thought from what i read. (m50b25 didnt start production until like 92 or something?), just thought all e43's might have had the same motor? Oh well back to the drawing board lol. That whole car is what the wreckers want for a motor lol. Asked about a s50b32 i think it is? out of the m3...10k! Amazing motor but 10k is crazy money. So ill be looking at about 2k which they recon will cost me a lot more than that to get the same power from an m20b20 engine which i thought was obvious. Going to ask about a m20b25 today (im going backwards i swear lol) as an extra 20/30hp shouldnt be too hard/expensive to get out of one of those right? That should be a drop in bolt up fit atleast to simplify the rest of things.

soo wrecking yards want about 2k for a motor with the wiring loom...They did tell me i can use my flywheel and clutch setup etc aswel? (as all theirs were auto's. Decided to look around. Found this on the net. Thinking about offering him 2k for it and seeing if he takes it. Will this have the non vanos m50? Also would the 5 stud conversion work in this? Im assuming it will have bigger brakes etc? EDIT: need to add link lol http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...s=&__N=1216 1246 1247 1252 1282 4294967079 4294729575 4294966850 442 900&silo=1011&PriceTo=442&seot=1&tsrc=allcarhome&__Nne=15&trecs=3&__sid=12C30EFC91FB

i seriously cant find anything on the net about a m52 swap lol. I can find heaps of videos of them finished and running but cant find anything with info/step by step lol. Tried e30 m52b25 conversion, m52b25 conversion +e30 etc. Anyone got any links or can tell me what to type in? 99% of the time someone will tell me something different to type in that i would never think of and BAM it will pop up exactly what i need lol.

lol i know theres no cheap way but i mean like on a reasonable budget. Im happy to spend 3/4k over time. Just dont want to spend like 8k in one hit on it lol. I just remembered this morning about being told by the wreckers at one stage either the m50/52 engine bolts up to the m20 gearbox and mounts etc and you can drop it in easy as? Just have to modify the gearbox mount a few degrees and shifter aswell. But is the wiring the same? They thought you could just plug in the m52/50 ecu provided i had the motronic ignition system like i do?

LOL i am from brisbane why is that? I honestly dont know what i should or shouldnt do. Im not great with cars and i prefer to take a vote of other peoples opinions and do it that way lol. Im looking for the easiest way to get my car slidable lol.

Hey guys, So i had another silly thought....What about changing to either a m52b25 motor OR a m30b35? Theres a link on e30.de that has heaps of info on the b35 and i can get a complete motor for around the $1200 mark here. I think the b25 is a little more but then the b35 will need custom driveshaft, radiator, wiring, engine mounts etc so it all adds up. PLUS i get my open licence in a few months so want something done by like january next year. What kind of power does the m52b25 (EDIT again: is it m52 or m50?) make and how hard is it to install? I have heard they are pretty much a bolt in job? IE: use the same gearbox and wiring loom and just change the ecu over? EDIT: oh and could i run ITB's with one of these?

I have no idea what type of ITB's they are from? They are off an RB26 if that helps? Gona order some coilovers hopefully this week if my paypal account decides to finish connecting to my bank lol. Will have a read of that clutch info when i get a chance. Will also have a ring around and try to find an lsd diff for the right price. Also should i run a cheap set of sportmaxx rims that i can get on ebay in 16x8 0 offset all round for like $800+tyres or i can get a set of oldschool rays meshies 15x8 unknown offset but 4x114.3 so i could run converison spacers and make them 0 offset? Im pretty sure 0 offset fits in the rear but will 8's with 0 offset fit under the front guards? (guards will be rolled but preferrably not overly flared lol)

Would removing the factory muffler have much advantage power-wise? I have a complete aftermarket system i think but for some reason the factory muffler :S Thinking about cutting it off and just running a straight pipe or straight through muffler/hotdog or something. Would that have much gain over that massive standard muffler?

What do i need to look for on the gearbox? Also how does that site work? I can get the tyre diameter to work but the gear ratio bit doesnt do anything for me? Where do you enter information? lol EDIT: i was reading that bmw's have a large overdrive 5th gear? So if i had a 4.1 auto diff that was pretty crappy gearing would i still get decent highway speed in 5th? My street isnt long enough to get into 5th in the beema lol. Only just get on boost in the fc then have to jump on the brakes again lol