Munkvy

I'm new to this forum thing, but I'm selling my BMW so I figure this is the right place to be. It is a 1986 325i. It's automatic, and has no modifications whatsoever - except I changed the gear knob because the other one broke. There are a couple of cracks in the dashboard, and a couple of tears in the drivers seat, but I found some spiffing car seat covers to hide those. Its a Maroon/Burgundy sort of colour. The engine goes really well - my boyfriend has made sure all of the oil changes etc are always up to date. There are 242,000kms on the clock, and I've gotten two WOF's since I bought it 9 months ago and haven't had any problems. The current WOF (and the Rego) expire in August 2006. I replaced the front tyres and got the wheels aligned before I got the last WOF. I'm selling it because I'm going back to Uni next year and need the money. Asking $2200 or near offer. If you're interested, please phone 04 386 4921 - my name is Julia, although my boyfriend will be the one answering your more specific car-stuff questions. Thanks!

isnt E30-323ti an example of another engine? Toyota 1JZ... or you could use either a 2JZ (Rather expensive I would imagine?) or something older like a 7M?

The RB30DE, ie non turbo would be physically slightly bigger than the RB25, they normally sit slightly higher when youve done a conversion, but they really dont have that much power, go take a VL Commodore for a drive and see if you could live with it.

Other alternatives, the RB20DET engine is very cheap itself, complete from intercooler back to gearbox can be had for $1500 or less. The SR20 isnt exactly a light motor, unless you get the S15 model, which from memory is a bit lighter, but then I guess it depends on your definition of light... Another option if you can live without a 6 cylinder would be either a 3SGTE (MR2/Celica 2L Turbo motor) or CA18DET (S13 Silvia, 1.8L turbo motor), both these engines can be had quite cheap now, but its a matter of finding someone to install them for you!

The loudest exhaust I ever had was a length of copper downpiping from a roof. Straight through from the exhaust manifold to the back. Bloody hell it was loud!! Talk about a reasonant volume increase!

It eventually split down the folded seam and became useless - but for a few days in the '60s - we terrorised New Plymouth...

best post ever, brilliant stuff rog.

my 5 is f*kn loud, havin only cobys. Think at last time was louder than Ians, haha.

But yuh, another way to turn "boy racers" and young car enthusiasts (two different groups) against police.

Still, i mostly did my exhaust for the performance increase, not for noise, would be good if the police actually knew what ones were too loud and only for noise and cut down on them. Would have nothing against that.

How do targa cars go with this law? Thats what Im interested to find out. Will ask my uncle next time I see him.

re targa cars, its like any rally car thats road legal, they are really only road legal for the purposes of touring between stages, so there is effectively a blind eye turned on their exhaust level.

However although the car is warrented with a louder exhaust, I could imagine an asshat cop would try and do you for it anyway... And if you were to use your purpose built rally car as a daily driver (yes please! :-) ) Im sure a cop would have something to say about that! Something to do with anti-lag on courtney place wouldnt go down so well...

You have to ask the question... WHY?

Its obviously his pride and joy but I can't stand f**king posers in their 318i autos, or even worse, 1.9 190E autos going around with all that pimp sh*t on them. the fact that a new turbo diesel 4WD Rodeo or Navara would show em whos boss down the strip makes them look even more pathetic. But ya gotta look good, especially when imitating fiddy and the like :gay:

I absolutely agree, the missus has a 325i, which although auto, atleast has the power to back the looks, although right now its bog standard...however she wants it to look alot more pimp, but atleast even standard powerwise it should still perform ok. (its already embarrased a few "boyracers"!).

just cant understand the whole, lets look cool in the 1.8L craze... but then I drive a turbo skyline, so sideways is more important than pimping... maybe Lancer GSR owners could explain this to us (another craze I never understood!).

http://www.trademe.co.nz/structure/0001-02...on-43356102.htm

Im sorry if this has already been posted, but WTF? The poor thing.

http://www.stuff.co.nz/stuff/0,2106,3504449a11,00.html

was this the article on the news last night with that kid?

cos if so it was a porsche that was quoted on the news...

i dont think they are bmw that car would have come with metric rims too my GUESS is schnitzer replias.I think you can get those type for threes as well.3 series wheels have a different offset than 567 and 8 rims which are mostly interchangeable between 567 and 8(not to mention the 5 stud layout ton the latter

True, any clues on where I could find some, as cant afford the whole car (ie a 540) at this stage, so putting a set that are similar on the e30 would have to do for the moment...

Munkvy,

The Beyern Mesh is not bad (and will fit a 5 it seems), and it looks like it might be a very similar style to Ruotecompany Replica's R643 [97] that E30stz mentioned (and which won't fit a 5). It comes in "Chrome, Silver/Machine Lip" - I assume that means there's two finish options - "Chrome" or "Silver with Machine Lip". The chrome one looks nice in the hardcopy catalogue I have, but I've never seen a full-chrome wheel in real life that I actually like. So I'm a bit doubtful. None of the local retailers have BG World Wheel stuff in stock for some weird reason. I note your comments about the Machine Lip... cleanliness and "worms" (Rod) - I like to keep my car clean, but sometimes I don't have time. So thanks for that tip.

I might price up a set of Beyern Mesh, maybe in chrome, but I'd have to seem them in real life first. Otherwise, if I can find where to get them nice HP Design wheels from (or them M-Pars)...

BTW, tyres...

What's your thoughts on:

Nangkang (Directional)

Yokohama (non-Directional)

Toyo (Directional)

Dunlop

Goodyear (non-Directional)

Directional Nangkang tyres seems to be the best priced so far (ex Mag and Turbo) and the guy there claims they are a good all-round tyre, but Mag and Turbo seem to be the dearest for the wheels (for Ruotecompany Replica's R624 [91] Shadow Chrome). Actually, I should point out that all three retailers I've been to have recommended these R624 [91] - I guess because the range for 5-series is quite limited. But I haven't seen one in real life, so I don’t know… They are quite cheap though and I think they look OK, but it's not an M5 I have, so… Also, Ruotecompany have one for 5-series called R631 which I can get for only $950 for a set of 4 (the cheapest I know of), but I think I like the R624 [91] lots more, for not much more money.

Thanks guys, and more thoughts welcome and appreciated.

Paul :thumb:

with regards to tyres, Bridgestone S03s are known to not last long, but have awesome grip.

I used to have Nankang NS1s on my R32, and they are a*se, average grip in a straight line in the dry, cr*p round corners in the dry tho, and just plain terrible in the wet (80km/hr, put your foot down on a straight and look at the footpath!). NS1s seem to be the cheap Mag and Turbo option, (my car came with rims bought at Mag and Turbo, hence the tyres), NS2s are apparently much better gripwise and longevity is still not too bad, but thats only based on others comments, not bothered with them myself.

Ive used GSD3s and in the wet and dry and gravel, just fantastic, couldnt comment on longevity, which I dont think would be great, due to how well they stick!

Another popular option is Toyo T1-S's, great tyre as well, although not wonderful shoulders, reasonable longevity if your not abusive and good grip, esp in the wet.

hope that helps.

Also, E30-323ti, those rims, Im guessing they are factory fitament? (Im relatively new to bimmers sorry, Im assuming they are either a 5 or 7 series rim?), is there anything similar to them that anyone has seen in 4 stud, ie a replica that could fit an E30?

Im quite partial to the Beyern Mesh, on that same site http://www.bgworldwheels.co.nz/beyern_wheels.html

would suit most bimmers if you ask me, and 17x8 means you can fit most tyres on there, a 235 would be no sweat, maybe a 265 would be an option instead?

I was working at this yesterday, and saw this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v35/Munk...y%2005/3232.jpg

sorry for the pic quality, but I was actually working!

anyway, didnt get to come introduce myself, but was wondering who it was? as it had bimmersport www on the sides...

cheers

Vivian

Whats with the Skylines in the sig and avatar?

My Temperature guage does the same thing - sometimes it'll go crazy and like bounce from nothing to hot and then die for a while...then come back...

the avatar is my skyline after a rally and the sig is the Nismo Z Tune, why you ask?

and cheers for the suggestions guys, will have a look at the fuses, dunno if its related but the car has managed to blow every light bulb forward of the engine over the last 4 months, all at different times?

and sometimes the right front indicator wont work either (side and rear one still run, but at double time), but gave it a clean the other day and works fine now?

E30 325iA, tacho and vacuum meter only work very intermittently? Ie 1st thing in the morning, but within a few mins starts to fluctuate then dies? As its auto its not really a biggy but would be nice to have running.

O2 sensor will fail over time of continued use. The fuel is lead based and all modern cars have an O2 sensor that are not lead friendly. But as you said, there is performance to be gained. Any fuel that you can't buy from a service station out of their pump is illegal to use on public roads. Rally cars get away with it due to them being competition car, normally driven on public roads solely on touring stages. AVgas is also illegal to use on public roads. The sure fire give away for a cop other then the smell is the grey/white exhaust.

if its illegal to use, why are you able to buy it at Mobil in Feilding? I realise its right next to the entrance to manfield, but they have it on pump there.... so that would mean anyone can go buy it?

Umm, Ive got a turbo off a Skyline, rocker covers and coil covers (also from a Skyline), 1 slightly mangled E30 325i spoiler, a head gasket and exhaust mani gasket (also from Skyline), water pump and various small parts from the rebuild of my RB20DET as well.

So not many BMW parts, cos so far I havent really had to replace much on it!

FYI there is a 5spd GTS25t for $12995 at a yard around the corner from home.

what year though and km? And you say GTS25t, so Im assuming you mean R33?

He has asked about a 1998, which is the crossover time from R33 to R34....

and M325i, the R33 and R34 werent sold here NZ new, except the R34 GTR... which was in no way different from the JDM model.

anyways, back on topic, the R34 sedan, auto? They arent a bad car if the cars styling is to your liking, and as you say alot cheaper on the gas/insurance, and its still a Skyline :-) .

Another plus over alot of the cars people have mentioned, is that being so much newer and japanese built (no disrespect to the other manufacturers mentioned!), its going to be pretty reliable if treated well, so as long as you care for it and make sure its maintained well, it should be a good 1st car for you!

What model Skyline? R33 or R34? Cos either way for $10000 your not getting much Skyline for that age... Simply put a tidy R33 GTS25t auto sedan would be around that price, but an R34, your very unlikely to get a GTT for that price, not even for a sedan... unless you know someone who can either pinch one for you or get them at auction VERY cheap...

Either way, I personally have heard too many horror stories about importing, unless you know the importer personally, plus the Japanese dont look after their cars, ie oil changes, keeping it rust free etc, so I would think the NZ one, which you can actually check for yourself is a safer bet.

And as has been mentioned, this may not be the best place to ask around... Try www.skylinesdownunder.com you can prob dig up more info on our site, that or send me a PM and I can try and help as well.

Welcome Vivian.

You don't live with Neil & Brian do you??

Sorry, couldn't help it.

I'm not familiar with Rally spec for a E30, as I'm building mine for Tarmac.

Here is some useful info though.

Go with the Bilstiens, they offer similar valving to the koni but are not shortened like the konis.

Use E36 springs, they are stiffer and taller.

I would look at building coil overs for the front, easy to change spring rate & height to suit, rears: heaps of springs to choose from, coilovers require mods to the towers otherwise they fall apart!!

Get some -ve camber up front and a LSD (or lock-it) for sure out the back.

Leave the sway bars till you have used it a bit on the gravel.

At the end of the day it would prolly still need a bit of tweaking to get it just right.

Cheers, nahh dont live with them sorry. Are they Wellingtonians as well?

So from what you said its not a simple swap over job with coilovers then? you would have to get them custom designed?

Sorry for asking so many questions, Im used to Skylines, where everything is available off the shelf and bolts straight up...

Unfortunately not.

The E30's have the front spindal integral with the strut and the shock is an insert type.

I have a pair of old fronts (complete housings) for sale if you want to build some coilovers, pretty easy as all the bits are available off the shelf from Stocks or Autolign.

The rear they aren't really needed as there are enough spring & spring pad combo's to get something that works.

bravomikewhiskey: Must be getting old

hehe, Ive got that now. I should know, being a guy with whats considered a chicks name all the time, I should have twigged you were refering to the Young Ones, its how I normally explain my name - rather than that its Latin, must be getting close to Friday!

Ok, so just to clarify, as the fronts are a shock inside strut design (Well thats what I would call it, not being an expert!) you could then combine the right bits to turn them into a coilover, ie using the original strut body and replacing the type of spring and shock?

and then with the rears they are seperate? ie not integrated? So you could only really use adjustable shocks (ie adjustable damping) with an appropriate spring?

.

.

Welcome Vivian.

You don't live with Neil & Brian do you??

Sorry, couldn't help it.

I'm not familiar with Rally spec for a E30, as I'm building mine for Tarmac.

Here is some useful info though.

Go with the Bilstiens, they offer similar valving to the koni but are not shortened like the konis.

Use E36 springs, they are stiffer and taller.

I would look at building coil overs for the front, easy to change spring rate & height to suit, rears: heaps of springs to choose from, coilovers require mods to the towers otherwise they fall apart!!

Get some -ve camber up front and a LSD (or lock-it) for sure out the back.

Leave the sway bars till you have used it a bit on the gravel.

At the end of the day it would prolly still need a bit of tweaking to get it just right.

Cheers, nahh dont live with them sorry. Are they Wellingtonians as well?

So from what you said its not a simple swap over job with coilovers then? you would have to get them custom designed?

Sorry for asking so many questions, Im used to Skylines, where everything is available off the shelf and bolts straight up...

I'm not really in the 'know' as such when it comes to rally performance, but you cant really go wrong with Bilsteins, not sure weather you'd want the Bilstein Sports or the Bilstein Heavy Duty, probably sports as they are a bit softer on the bumps.

Thanks, are they coilovers? and any idea on availability for an E30 or price?

Cheers

Vivian

Hi Im Vivian, Im new round here, have a E30 325iA sedan.

Its currently bog standard, but Im thinking of as Im quite active in motorsport, slowly working it into something a bit more useful in those areas. Specifically sprint racing and also gravel sprints/classic rally.

Ive been able to find out prices and parts for most things I would want to replace in it (starting with brakes and a manual conversion). But one thing Im uncertain of, is in regards to suspension.

Now initially I intend on removing the boat like tendancies it displays, ie sway bars and maybe lower springs. However Im not too familiar with rally suspension, any guru's out there with suggestions, ie brands and perhaps models? As I dont really want to splash out on some nice coilovers, only to find it makes it terrible on gravel!

Are there any gravel bashers out there that can give me any suggestions?

The other question, what would you recommened for sway bars and strut braces in this sort of application? As I come from a Nissan background, im not to familiar with what works well in a BMW...

Any help much appreciated

Vivian