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jochen

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Posts posted by jochen

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Hi there,

    I have an E39 530i with the Japanese Mk II DVD navigation system. I also have a DVD containing its software, maps and voices - the one you get along with the car.

    I would like to dissect this DVD and see if it is possible to load NZ maps and voices on there. It will likely be a laborious process, but probably worth it...

    Can anyone think of a reason why this wouldn't work?

    Cheers

    Here's the process to do it:.

    OS:

    1. Determine the operating system on the nav

    2. Reverse engineer the operating system to see how it loads maps and voices

    3. Write your custom code to remove any specific japanese restrictions

    4. recompile and load into the nav

    Map:

    1. Reverse engineer the map to determine the nature of the proprietary map format

    2. Obtain a NZ map, do the same reverse engineering as shown in step 1 for the NZ map

    3. Extract the NZ map data

    4. Compile the map data into the format understood by the jap nav

    Voila!

    So: how easy is the above?

    Well, depending on your knowledge of operating systems, programming languages, ability to reverse engineer, and the range of compilers at your discretion, the task ranges from very difficult to blooming impossible.

    Honestly, just buy the original thing

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Ok, thanks guys. Found it. Doesn't look very accessible. I spose it will have to be removed to do anything with? Also easy to remove the jap nav on the roof on the boot? Very annoying :\

    video module is easy to remove as hotwire said.

    nav unbolts from roof of boot, then unplugs. The TV tuner will take over generating the graphics when nav is removed, and will work after next cold boot of car.

    or replace jap nav with euro nav and you have fully functional gps navigation in NZ

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Glenn,

    Its Saying Tail Light Failure as soon as I put the put my headlights on.

    Cheers

    The lamp check system checks for faulty bulbs.

    Any poor wiring connection, bad ground, old filament, or corroded bulb connection, or worn down solder lump on the base of the bulb will cause these problems

    As well as burnt out bulb!

    Make sure the taillight connectors are clean and in good order, and that the bulb socket is clean and free from dirt and rust

    Make sure the taillamp ground connection is also clean, secure, and free of dirt and corrosion

    If all looks good, check the bulb socket that it makes a good connection with the bulb. Then check the bulb itself - often the solder blob in the base of the bulb wears down due to vibration and the bulb stops making a reliable contact. Replace the bulb if this is the case.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    I'm not sure the speaker size in the X5, but I replaced the 51/4" speakers in the foot wells of my E36 with equivalent sized Nacamichis which have a phenominal bass response. I do use a sub however I can switch the sub off and still get great bass from just the Nacmichis.

    Apologise for the spelling.

    One asks oneself is it valid to compare what is fitted to a 15 to 20yr old BMW to a modern X5?

    I mean, the sound system in the 1956 Isetta wasn't very good either, and upgrading the Isetta's speakers would do wonders for the Isetta. But how does that relate to an X5?

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Just wanting a bit more bass (grunt) on my factory E53 audio. I've been suggested adding a sub-woofer to the existing system because the current system has nice clear sound, but just no real rumble. What are my options and what prices should I be looking at spending on buying the sub & equipment and installation. Will they just hook into my speakers somehow or?

    Cheers.

    "somehow or?" is correct

    You drive the subs in a BMW just as you do in any other car.

    Either using low level from the radio prior to the factory amp (valid for non-DSP systems) or tap into the existing sub outputs from the factory amp.

  11. Posted · Edited by jochen · Report reply

    Hi

    A friend of mine with a 98 523i has been given a 'performance module' that he wants to put in.

    A mate of his bought it off Trademe a couple of years back, it's like a wire with a rubber bit in the middle and you fit it on the Airflow sensor, supposedley giving more power & torque 'not at the expense of fuel economy'.

    I'm a little dubeous, has anyone heard of or fitted these performance modules?? Do they work, or cause problems??

    Cheers

    Steve

    Don't throw it away like Glenn said!

    It is a proper performance module to measure the performance of your E39.

    Here is how it works:

    1. Carefully unpack it and make sure it is clean and free of grease. This is important, as grease can severly affect the performance of these modules

    2. For the installation and initial usage of the device, choose a suitable area where you can test the car to its full performance, such as a deserted racetrack, industrial area late at night, or a shopping mall car park

    3. Position the vehicle so that at least 200m of clear road surface exists ahead of you, and 100m clear area behind you

    4. Ensure the engine has reached normal operating temperature and that tyres are correctly inflated

    5. Ensure all flag marshals and viewers are clear of the road. Ensure cameras are running to record the performance test.

    6. The important bit: now carefully place the device in front of your left, rear wheel. Just so it touches the wheel.

    7. Get in the car, buckle up seat belt, start engine, and perform your best racing start you can

    8. Return to your starting point. Locate the device and measure its distance from your starting point and it's size

    You can then calculate your vehicle performance using the formula:

    distance_from_starting_point_in_m * percentage_reduction_in_size = performance_factor

    Tip:

    To assist in assessing how other factors such as fuel type, tyre selection and launch style can affect vehicle performance, you can repeat the tests with more performance modules.

    These tests are best performed on factory-new, unopened performance modules

    I can supply them in boxes of 10 for only $29.95 per box (including bimmersport discount).

    Special offer: Order 3 boxes, and you get a free baseball cap.

    Order now on 0900-Imadumass

  13. Posted · Report reply

    you may need to pull apart the seat base and check for a heating pad,

    No you don't

    All you need to do is look at the connector and the wire colours, and compare with the WDS.

    All wire colours determine the wire function

    so look at the wiring diagram for heated seats and your wire colours - you immediately see if you have this function or not.

    Like wise for lumbar control, massage, ventillation, seat motors, etc

    No dismantling required.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Hi i wonder if you can help me also :unsure: Radio dealer had my stereo for check, he changed the outline fo one channel, it did not work, I measured the rear shelf speakers (ok), no speakers in doors aft. Even bought a stereo from UK , changed it , same result. No sound from aft speakers..

    check for short between speaker wire and ground.

    I've seen chaffed speaker wires on the E39 rear parcel tray, just where the speaker wire goes to the speaker. Remove rear seat reas and remove speaker to inspect.

    A chaffed wire shorts to ground, and shuts down the amplifier stage of the Business RDS radio (luckily with no damage to the radio)

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Since I un-plug connector and re-plug it again. It's been two days. Problem seems gone so far, no more rear light warning comes.

    But yesterday after I gave my parnter a jump on her flat battery car, My battery warning pop up for 1-2 seconds while driving, then off, it happened twice on yesterday, also happened few weeks ago while driving, i have already forgot.

    Is that means my battery needs to change or something eles?

    Means your alternator is struggling to charge the battery.

    Due to failing alternator most likely.

    Get the whole charging system checked before you get stranded.

    If you replace the alternator, always fit a new one, and then fit a new battery at the same time

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Hey guys, i was wondering if there was any way around an old cd stacker that wont play copied cds?

    it plays genuine cds fine, but cdr will load the cd but no sound will come out, and cdrw and it just doesnt want to know.

    is it possible to burn the music in some sort of different format that will work or is it something that will require new stacker or whatever?

    An old CD player not being able to read some CDs, especially burnt ones, is a sign of a weak old tired laser.

    The diagnosis is nearly always 100% correct if you can read an original stamped CD, but cannot read a burnt copied CD.

    If you can get the laser replaced, it will be 100% better.

    But sometimes it can be hard to find replacement lasers for the older CD changers...

  17. Posted · Report reply

    i dont know about bmws but with fords and mazdas if the light is on solid, not flashing a code, 9 times out of 10 its a dead module.

    On fighter planes, when the light is on, you're in big trouble.

    In submarines, when the light flashes, you need to call the weapons center and get the cryptographer to decode the incoming message

    On the moon lander module, it simply mean you were about to take a great step.

    And on a BMW, it means... exactly what the BMW owners manual tells you.

    Not the Ford manual , nor the Mazda manual, nor the fighter plane, submarine or moon lander manual.

    The BMW manual is the one to read with BMWs.....

    (walks away, wondering if he has made his point, and starts making bets as to who will groan and flame me...)

  18. Posted · Report reply

    I was crusing you tube looking at E38 vids and came across this vid of steering wheel shift control. I also noticed that his dash was displaying radio information.

    Wondering if anyone knows how to set that up.

    My car is ex japan - don't know it that makes any difference - has a 6:9 display.

    That's a standard function for cars with the high IKE (IKE=instrument cluster, high = the version with the text display at the bottom)

    when you use the steering wheel controls to change radio presets, the new preset appears on the IKE text display.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    I've been installing bits and pecies in the back of my E38 740i. It has the automatic opening and closing boot lid.

    Currently it has a problem which is it's giving me a warning that the trunk is open, but it's not. The trunk also won't auto open as it won't it already thinks it's open, so tried to pump up the hydraulic lifter, but nothing happens. I have to open the trunk using the key, then it will raise up.

    Any ideas?

    check the micro switch on the boot latch inside the boot lid, make sure it is working properly (measure it!)

    Another common problem is a broken wire in the rubber boot between boot and car body (where the wires flex all the time)

    Take the lining off the boot lid to check both problems. Easy to find and fix.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Hi all,

    We have had our 2003 525I for a couple of months and have just noticed that the footwell behind the drivers seat (and to a lesser degree the other side) has heaps of water in the carpet.

    I can't see where it might be coming in. The sides of the footwell seem to be dry.

    I vac'd it out the other day and got about 2 cups of water out of there.

    Anyone had this before? What is the solution?

    I had that too.

    It's the butyl rubber door seal that has failled and is no longer sealing the moisture seal to the door frame

    Easy to fix:

    Remove door panel (no impact on any fitted airbags, but then rear doors mostly don't have airbags anyway)

    Get a new bitumen rubber strip from BMW, use only the original butyl rubber, it is dirty cheap. About 1.5m per door

    Clean out all old butyl rubber, you only need to seal the bottom half of the door

    Fit new butyl rubber

    If the seal failled due to old age, then inspect and reseal all four doors, as all four doors will be the same age

  22. Posted · Report reply

    one of my mates gave me a bmw OEM torch for my bday, unfortunately, it doesnt fit my e30 glovebox socket, but i want to keep it for sentimental value.

    Question: is it a straight swap of "GENERALY FITS THE FOLLOWING MODELS : E38 , E39 , E46 , X5 , E60 , E63 , E65 AND MORE " sockets to my e30 socket wiring?

    TIA

    Yes, dead easy, because the torch socket is nothing more than switched 12V and ground

    So make the new socket physically fit the mounting location, and then connect the switched 12V and ground.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Is this applicable generally to Japanese nav units.

    is it a software change then a new data disk ?

    I am considering getting one going in a 2005 MB E Class.

    Is there somebody who does it in Wellington>

    The comments are specific to BMW nav systems in BMW, supplied to you from BMW fans who own and drive BMWs and know BMWs inside out.

    For Mercedes information, please ask the Mercedes specialists in the Mercedes forums.

    Every car manufacturer does things differently - a Mercedes is not a BMW, just like a Windows Smartphone is not an iPhone.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    I've got a 1998 BMW 735i and the 4:3 Monitor is not working any more.

    I've looked at the fuses and can not see any burn fuses.

    How can get it going again?

    95% of the cases the LCD display has failled (well, the high-voltage backlight generator fails)

    A new LCD display fixes it.

    You can replace just the LCD part, you don't have to replace the entire on-board monitor with tape deck etc.

    You could also consider upgrading to a 16:9 widescreen display if you want.

    Tip: troll ebay for cheap replacements, tends to be much cheaper than NZ wreckers

    And it doesn't matter whether LHD or RHD, for my car I got a cheap LHD board monitor from the USA, where the tape deck was faulty but the screen was OK. Then I unscrewed the LCD section (4 screws) and swapped it into mine. Plugged in and it worked.

    Easy peasy.

    And a wise man would get one from a 2000 car - as new as possible with as few hours on the clock as possible, then you get more life out of it....

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