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Showing results for tags 'n46'.
Found 7 results
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Hi everyone, I’m new to this page. I’m planning to buy a 2009 320i E92 with 74k miles, and it comes with a 2-year Provident mechanical warranty so I’m wondering if it’s good or bad decision .please advise thank you
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My n46 e90 car: When I change my ignition coil, I noticed that there is oil on the 4th cylinder. What is probably the main cause of it? Is it just replace the sparkplug pipe? or Should I replace the valve cover gasket? Before that I replaced my VVT motor. Thanks.
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My E90 n46 won't start 2 days after I changed the VVT motor. I tried to start the engine for a long time and suddenly engine lights comes on, 2a67 Valvetronic , internal fault and 2a6b valvetronic,powerlimitation,servomotor. Car cranks good and just that. Did starting my engine long destroyed my new vvt motor? My vvt motor destroyed my engine as well? Tried to remove the Eccentric shaft sensor plug. Then start the engine it only shows error 2a59 2a55 -- eccentric shaft sensor. Put the plug back again and error is gone. Still wont start. Remove and reinsert the VVT motor's electric plug. Engine won't start. When inserted the new VVT motor, I press the start button to ignition 2 (Engine not idling) and wait for a long time and hear lots of sounds from the engine. Then started the engine idled for 15 minutes. Test run the car running it in the Motor way for more an hour and everything wents smooth and ok. No vibration in idling, rpm no longer going up and down etc. Then after 2 days, wify called , car just cranks and wont start. When I start the engine (crank long), I can smell gasoline fume. RPM goes up. Now i don't know what to do. Can ultra grey silicon damage your engine when some of it go to the engine? Any help would be appreciated ty. -
Is this normal when short driving? Or there is a leak somewher? Like oil coolant mix?
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looking for a PDF workshop manual for the N46 engine. Thanks
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Hello, Anyone tried to disable the valvetronic system on N46? I was planning to just disable it. In the net, some say it is good and some say it will just do a limp mode. Any experience guys? Thank you.
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New member of approx 4/5 months the BMW owners club. I purchased a 2007 120i M-sport hatch and found out right away that the stock stereo and speakers in no way complimented this vehicle, therefore change was inevitable. After installation (completed by a reputable company) of high end audio equipment i found the xmas lights on the dash going haywire, losing power and finally dying, all this whilst driving! I have read a lot of posts explaining battery, regulator, wiring, connections and alternator. That being said i decided to have a new battery installed ($400 later) which was also completed by a reputable company. Once installed the confirmed that it was "accepted" by the vehicle. A couple of days later it happened again which got me researching and concluding that i needed the alternator out and checked. Once out the evidence is clear, worn pulley, covered in oil etc etc. Anyway it requires replacing. My question: As he I.D. number was worn off and for some unknown reason my vin number is being rejected by sites such as Bosch. I am wanting to know how would one find out if this is the factory alternator or a higher amperage one? If factory, would it be a worthy option of upgrading and to what? I will also be getting the belts changed at the same time. With the Alternator being changed will the car need to be coded for the new alternator? I have had a look on TM and this is what i found https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/electrics/listing-2606688132.htm?rsqid=387493c860df44b8ad054eb1f2754fde-001 unfortunately i cannot cross reference (numbers are worn) Please, if there is any other info needed let me know. Other than that i look forward to any advice given (hopefully not too technical) and more importantly getting her healthy and back on the road. Vehicle details: Year: 2007 Make: BMW Model: 120I Colour: WHITE Body Style: Hatchback Engine: N46B20 VIN: WBAUD32050PF47373
