fully confused with short shifts

[WarNox 1]

i've finally got around to doing this and researching it all has got me confused. first of all i've decided that the dealer here is too expensive.

I have an e36 320i, so the same as a 325. From what model bmw's would the shifters fit straight in? without bending.

The options are:

z3 1.9 - #25 11 1 434 148 (29% shorter)

z4 3.0 early production - #25-11-7-516-160

E46 325Xi - #BW-25-11-1-434-148 (same part number as the z3)

M-Roadster (MZ-3) - OEM-25-11-2-228-384

The z3 1.9L is $100 at the dealer, z4 3.0 is $180+gst. and both of the above numbers are apparently old.

Some places say the mZ-3 will not fit straight in, and others say it would, anyone know this for sure?

I'd like to get the z4 3.0 but its a lot more expensive than the z3 1.9, what is so different in the two?

I rang European Auto Spares / Europart, and they seem to think they need the type of tranny I have on my car, and wanted to charge me $180 for a 2nd hand part.

Could someone please try to explain as much as possible!

Thanks in advance!!!

[BM WORLD 1265]

heres a pic of some of the differences .

and some info from a web page .web page

"""""Shifter R & R"""""

This is a good time to rebuild the shift bushings to be able to start out with a good snug linkage assembly. Parts are relatively cheap at the dealer compared to getting a UUC, BavAuto, etc. short shift kit. As a minimum, get the items indicated in this jpeg

The ETK lists several part numbers for the knuckle which attaches directly to the shift shaft and the dealer provided the wrong part the 1st time. I printed the alternate page from the ETK and went back to the dealer with my old knuckle and was able to get an exact replacement. I was tempted to just press out the old plastic bushing insert and machine a new one out of Delrin and press it in but as it turns out, the link rod hole is oblong in the new ond and would be much more difficult for me to hit the proper shape & tolerances so spent the $18 for a new knuckle. It comes with a piece of sponge which gets coated with heavy grease front & back before installing it on the shaft.

A nice upgrade at this time is to install a short throw shift lever. The stock e32 shift lever provides smooth action but has a fairly long throw. Nearly all model BMW shifters will interchange with any other BMW. I ended up getting a Euro e36 M3 shifter since it provides a 30% reduction in throw and remains close to the stock height of the e32 shift knob, $40 at the dealer. As it turns out, the 30% reduction produces a noticeable amount of notchiness in the shift action & I would guess one with more on the order of 15% to 20% would provide a good match & I'll probably swap it out for the 1.9 Z3 shift lever. Here's a jpeg showing various model shifters:

The missing part number for the e36 M3 shifter is 25 11 1 222 955"""""""""

Edited April 4, 2007 by Brent HARTGE535i

[BM WORLD 1265]

have you seen this on tard metardy me

[WarNox 1]

thanks for the reply brent.

i did see that on trademe, but i'd rather get an oem part.

i still don't know which would fit without bending them tho? which one would you recommend i get?

thanks again

[Apex Effects 3]

heres a pic of some of the differences .

and some info from a web page .web page

"""""Shifter R & R"""""

This is a good time to rebuild the shift bushings to be able to start out with a good snug linkage assembly. Parts are relatively cheap at the dealer compared to getting a UUC, BavAuto, etc. short shift kit. As a minimum, get the items indicated in this jpeg

The ETK lists several part numbers for the knuckle which attaches directly to the shift shaft and the dealer provided the wrong part the 1st time. I printed the alternate page from the ETK and went back to the dealer with my old knuckle and was able to get an exact replacement. I was tempted to just press out the old plastic bushing insert and machine a new one out of Delrin and press it in but as it turns out, the link rod hole is oblong in the new ond and would be much more difficult for me to hit the proper shape & tolerances so spent the $18 for a new knuckle. It comes with a piece of sponge which gets coated with heavy grease front & back before installing it on the shaft.

A nice upgrade at this time is to install a short throw shift lever. The stock e32 shift lever provides smooth action but has a fairly long throw. Nearly all model BMW shifters will interchange with any other BMW. I ended up getting a Euro e36 M3 shifter since it provides a 30% reduction in throw and remains close to the stock height of the e32 shift knob, $40 at the dealer. As it turns out, the 30% reduction produces a noticeable amount of notchiness in the shift action & I would guess one with more on the order of 15% to 20% would provide a good match & I'll probably swap it out for the 1.9 Z3 shift lever. Here's a jpeg showing various model shifters:

The missing part number for the e36 M3 shifter is 25 11 1 222 955"""""""""

hey brent ive bought 1 off those shifters of trademe. but ive hit a snag on putting it in. i cant get the old orignal 1 out. how do or can u remove the main bushing that the shifter swivls on the big ass bush that it sits in? i can unhook the bottom part just that bush that eludes me on how 2 remove it. help please a walk through would b mint if u can do that cheeers

shaun

Edited May 2, 2007 by BimmaPHNTCY

[Jonty m50e30 0]

Gidday Shaun, just to help out in case you are working on it now, I am sure that the big bush that the lever sits in needs to be turned with a screwdriver or the like, it fits a bit like a radiator cap does if you can picture that, so has a couple of tabs that lock it in place. Spin it round to the right location and it should simply pull out from the top, disconnect the lever from the selector arm first.

Hope this helps.

Jonty

[Apex Effects 3]

Gidday Shaun, just to help out in case you are working on it now, I am sure that the big bush that the lever sits in needs to be turned with a screwdriver or the like, it fits a bit like a radiator cap does if you can picture that, so has a couple of tabs that lock it in place. Spin it round to the right location and it should simply pull out from the top, disconnect the lever from the selector arm first.

Hope this helps.

Jonty

yea it does dude cheers

will b taking it out 2morrow when ive got access 2 a hoist cos i can b arsed laying on my back under the car