Can someone explain a Pre purchase inspection?

[bmw.maniac 1]

I have a just recieved a pre purchase inspection for an e30 318i i'm looking at in Queenstown. Some bits sound not too good, and I was wondering if somone can clarify them. Thanks

*Power Steering fluid black and burnt

*Right hand engine damper leaking

*Rear control arm inner bushes inner and outer perished, both sides

*Oil leak at rear of gearbox

*Signs of coolant weep at heater hose connections at rear of cylinder head.

Are any of these overly concering?

Are any, easy to fix faults, or something I should be concerned about?

Cheers,

Eddy

Edited September 7, 2007 by Eddy

[M3_Power 636]

*Power Steering fluid black and burnt

- replace power steering fluid ... not hard to do and reasonably cheap ... although if it's black then perhaps there's a leak in the system somewhere?

*Right hand engine damper leaking

- engine mount I presume? new mount time ...

*Rear control arm inner bushes inner and outer perished, both sides

- Common replacement item ... I am surprised the trailing arm bush isn't perished.

*Oil leak at rear of gearbox

- could be a rear main seal ... gearbox out job if it is ... could be expensive

*Signs of coolant weep at heater hose connections at rear of cylinder head.

- new coolant hose I presume ... or might just need to be tightened.

[bmw.maniac 1]

*Power Steering fluid black and burnt

- replace power steering fluid ... not hard to do and reasonably cheap ... although if it's black then perhaps there's a leak in the system somewhere?

*Right hand engine damper leaking

- engine mount I presume? new mount time ...

*Rear control arm inner bushes inner and outer perished, both sides

- Common replacement item ... I am surprised the trailing arm bush isn't perished.

*Oil leak at rear of gearbox

- could be a rear main seal ... gearbox out job if it is ... could be expensive

*Signs of coolant weep at heater hose connections at rear of cylinder head.

- new coolant hose I presume ... or might just need to be tightened.

Can you elaborate on the new mounts and gearbox seal? How much is expensive etc.?

[m_power 0]

When buying a old car remember they arent gona be perfect. If this is all it needs to be perfect then go for it, if you arent going to buy a car for these reasons then its going to take along time for you to find one.

[jpp 0]

Can you elaborate on the new mounts and gearbox seal? How much is expensive etc.?

All E30s of this age are due for new engine mounts. Should be able to DIY it.

Gearbox seal is more labour intensive.

[bravo 34]

To elaborate just a little on M3 Power's coments:

*Power Steering fluid black and burnt

Agree probably just very old fluid, but worst case scenario is new rack and pump. These are inexpensive secondhand items and cheap if you do it yourself, but expect a bill of $600 upwards if you pay someone (parts included). You should in the first instance change the fluid to prevent any damage to the pump or rack and see if the new fluid deteriorates abnomrally fast. $20 for fluid and half an hours labour.

*Right hand engine damper leaking

Leaking??? Engine mounts don't leak - they are made of rubber. So not sure on this one. If it is just the engine mount they are around $100 RRP for both and an hour's labour. You should definitely do this as if you are in a minor accident or break in a hurry the mount might let go and your engine will end up in the radiator. If it is the shock absorber (which can leak) then budget $400+ for 2 new shocks and an hours labour to install.

*Rear control arm inner bushes inner and outer perished, both sides

By control arm I assume they mean the trailing arms. Common and lsomewhere around $100 for the bushes I guess. Another hour labour maybe less depending on their familiarity with e30's.

Otherwise they may be talking about the sway bar bushes - similar parts cost, slightly less labour.

*Oil leak at rear of gearbox

Potentially expensive. If its slow, top up the box occaisionally and worry about it later. As long as you keep it topped up ( a pain if itsmanual - easy if its auto), then you won't cause any damage.

*Signs of coolant weep at heater hose connections at rear of cylinder head.

Sounds like a cheap fix. But maybe check to ensure it is just the hose or loose connection and not a corroded hose barb or something a bit trickier.

budget around $45-60/hour depending on where you live or who you go to.

If all else fails contact the people who did the inspection - they will explain all. you didn't pay them to get a sheet of information you dont understand. More than likely they'll be more than happy to explain - especially if they think they might get work out of it.

Not a bad list for an e30 depending on the purchase price. DIY is definitley cheaper if you can do it. I recently bought an e30 for a grand. Replaced the auto trans, driveshaft bearing, motor mounts, cambelt, tensioner, replaced the steerig universal, fixed minor electrical gremlins, wipers and lights, did an oil change and auto fluid change, flushed and replaced the coolant and fixed a leaky coolant hose, replaced the alternator belt and got a new WOF and reg all up cost only $750 plus my own labour. Would have been closer to $3000 all up if I'd paid someone. DIY FTW.

Edited September 6, 2007 by bravo

[Silver Fox 43]

Right hand engine damper

The M40 has a small shock damper on each side of the engine next to the engine mount. Connects the engine mount arm to the front xmember.

Not sure on cost, but very easy to change, 10 mins.

Heater hoses, I'd change both, cheap insurance, and not hard either.

Same bravo, bought a 4 door manual M40 for $800, did cambelt and all fluids, some of the hoses, changed steering rack to power steering, changed steering column, someone had bent it trying to break the steering lock when stealing it, total cost was $300 for parts, gave it to my sis for her kids to learn to drive in.

Edited September 6, 2007 by Silver Fox

[bravo 34]

The M40 has a small shock damper on each side of the engine next to the engine mount. Connects the engine mount arm to the front xmember.

Thanks David. Have never owned a 4-cyl e30.

[bmw.maniac 1]

The gearbox is a Getrag 242 if that helps...

Thanks

[Silver Fox 43]

Guess that makes it a M10, pre f/lift 318. Not sure on the damper then sorry.

[Cale 36]

What company was it through? i.e. AA or VTNZ or other.

Edited September 6, 2007 by Quailboy

[bmw.maniac 1]

Guess that makes it a M10, pre f/lift 318. Not sure on the damper then sorry.

It's a facelift, M40 engine and black bumpers etc.

I put the vin through the decoder and apparently the gearbox is a Getrag 242/19

[bmw.maniac 1]

What company was it through? i.e. AA or VTNZ or other.

Independent Mechanic

[Silver Fox 43]

Hi Eddy, the 242 won't fit behind the M40, has to be a Getrag 240 of maybe a ZF, most likely the getrag tho. Check your numbers?

[bmw.maniac 1]

Hi Eddy, the 242 won't fit behind the M40, has to be a Getrag 240 of maybe a ZF, most likely the getrag tho. Check your numbers?

This is what came out of the vin decoder thingy:

Chassis number 2610732

Vehicle code AF52

Series E30

Model 318i ( 318i M40 )

Body type coupe

Catalog model ECE

Production date 1987 / 12

Engine M40

Transmission Manual

Steering Right

Catalyzer YES

Additional Information for Vehicle code AF52

Production FROM : 1987/06/01 TO : 1993/09/30

Engine M40 B18

Engine Oil 4.00 Liter

Transmission Manual

Transmission Model Getrag 242/19

Transmission Oil 1.00 Liter

Rear Axle Oil 0.90 Liter

Coolant(w/o Air Conditioner) 6.10 Liter

Coolant(with Air Conditioner) 6.30 Liter

Brake fluid 1.00 Liter

Remarks :

Maybe it is wrong?

Edited September 6, 2007 by Eddy

[Silver Fox 43]

According to my decoder it's a 240/5 Getrag.

It is a M40.so engine damper does apply

Edited September 6, 2007 by Silver Fox