First car - BMW 320 1988?

[areyoushaw 0]

Gday guys,

Im a new member here(was referred here by a mate) and I'm lookin for my first car. I currently drive(not my car) a Mitsibishi that is nearly as old as I am, badly tuned, thiiiiirsty and likes draining my bank balance.

I've always liked the 3 series manufactured in late 80s, and I've(finally) found one that suits me.

Its a BMW 320i 1988, 6 cylinder, 2000cc, 4 door, done 130,000km, has been imported from Japan. Wants $2,700 for it, which is pushing my budget.

Ive got 2 mates who drive cars similar to this, the 2 door 1800cc version, and I like the look of them, although I've never had a drive.

I cant see anything wrong with this car, but I thought I should ask some others who might know a thing or two that I dont. I'm concerned about the cost of insurance, parts, maintenance, and feul, all of which I pay myself. The cheaper the better, seeing as im a student(enough said ).

What do you reckon? Any help/tips would be gladly appreciated!!

[ducatiss 1]

Probably a fair price if condition is reasonable though try and knock it back a little. There are still a lot around so you can take your time as you can sometimes pick up nice things like sunroofs and leather upholstery for not a lot more. Things to look for as follows:

Make sure Cam belt and tensioner has been done. Unless the seller can show you a recent receipt for the work being done assume it hasn't and book it in right away. Get the water pump done while its being done.

Check for rust in the usual places

Check for soggy carpets front and back - lift the carpets in the back and see if its dry - these cars often leak due to blocked drains.

Check the oil for signs of water (white looking oil around the oil cap) These cars often crack heads if over heated. Check for overheating - the gauge should be at about the middle mark when driving.

Engine should be smooth (though its common for some weird idling issues rough idle and hunting and idle which can usually be cured cheaply)

If its auto make sure that it operates smoothly and without clonking when going from reverse to drive. If you can get to the car before its warmed up make sure that it pulls away without delay in drive. Diff should be free of whines and vibration.

Vibration and clonking can be caused by wear in the rubber coupling and CV joints in the drive line - another common area of wear.

DO NOT rev the car in neutral or park to check for smoke - very bad for these transmissions! Look for blue smoke out on the road - these engines when cared for will go well over 250,000kms. Instuments are easily swopped out and millage is very easy to falsify on these so just be aware of that.

Check that the central locking works and can be locked from both front doors and the boot - not uncommon for this to give problems.

Check ALL electrics. Wipers are known for sticking and shuddering.

The other thing is that the 2 litre behind an auto can be very fuel hungry around town and a bit of a slug unless you are out on the open road. The 2.5 can be bought for not a lot more and arguably doesnt use much more fuel at all.

Most of these things I have mentioned apart from the cracked head can be fixed if you are mechanically minded quite cheaply and there are still a great range of parts available on the likes of TradeMe and from members here. You need to be aware that an older BMW WILL need lots of maintenance and you will need to keep on top of this. If you arent prepared to learn how to do this yourself, then you will end up spending lots and lots of $$$

Not an exhaustive list but hope this helps.

Edited November 10, 2007 by ducatiss

[BM WORLD 1283]

a freind of mine has a nice white 1990 318i coupe 5spd manual recent newish low millage engine fitted . grey leather seats etc etc .

call him 2675306 wants about $2600.

better on gas than 2L and lighter .

5spd manual is always better than auto's which tend to pack up earlier in life .

leather lasts better than cloth as well .

std 14" alloys .

[areyoushaw 0]

Thanks for your help ducatiss. Been great.

The seller says it has been regularly serviced at Jerry Clayton BMW, and he has an AA report for viewing as well, so I don't think there will be too many problems, but thank heaps for that info.

Brent HARTGE535i that sounds like a good deal, except it has to be an Auto, unfortunately. License restrictions, dammit.

Anything else I should be looking out for?

[bmw.maniac 1]

320i's suck gas. Seriously! They are also extremely slow when paired with an Auto. I wouldn't touch them! Get either a 325i Auto (bigger engine, also cheaper on gas) or a 318i Auto.

[ducatiss 1]

No worries. It may be case of me favoring what I have but I regularly get up to 10kms/Litre out on the open road in my 320i which is about the same as my wifes RAV4 though it does drop around town. I also find the power fine though the auto box makes hills a pain (I will be ditching the auto box for a manual early next year). All the figures from BMW show the 320i and the 325i being VERY close in terms of fuel economy but the 325 is noticeably quicker off the line and in general driving. Good luck

[m_power 0]

325 autos are slow as well, dont get one of them.

[ducatiss 1]

325 autos are slow as well, dont get one of them.

Maybe not everyone is looking for outright speed in terms of 0-100 times? I wouldn't call a top speed in excess of 200km/h slow.

[bimmer boy 21]

325 autos are slow as well, dont get one of them.

Yet you drive a 318...

[m_power 0]

Well i had a auto 325 and it was slow so maybe it was just a bad one but after that experience i would never own a auto e30 again. And its not a 318 its a 318is there is a big difference there. I would rather a manual 318 over auto 325 any day.

Edited November 11, 2007 by E30-IS

[ducatiss 1]

Well i had a auto 325 and it was slow so maybe it was just a bad one but after that experience i would never own a auto e30 again. And its not a 318 its a 318is there is a big difference there. I would rather a manual 318 over auto 325 any day.

When new Top speed for the auto was 213km/h and 0-100 of 9.8sec according to BMW - of course age takes its toll on the performance a little. But I agree, the manual for a drivers car is a lot better.

[bimmer boy 21]

I think if you like the 320i and you are happy with it and it all checks out mechanically then go for it! It will be a lot better than a lot of japanese equivilents of the same ages. I find through experience that a auto 320 uses about the same amount of gas a a auto 325. So if you are anal about how fast you car is/ look how cool I am in my fast car perhaps neither a auto 320 or 325 would suit.

But if you want a nice solid cruiser with a sufficient amout of power around town then get that 320 or even a 325 if you find one you like.

Thats my input anyway

[bmw.maniac 1]

I reckon you should hunt around and find a nice, decent South African Auto 325i. They usually come with heaps of extras (Electric Everything, Leather Seats, OBC, Cruise Control etc) and are resonably cheap.

[areyoushaw 0]

Thanks for all your help!

tbh Im not really worried if its fast off the mark or what its top speed is or anything like that. Im not a racer. Compare what I'm looking at to what I currently drive (3000cc old auto) and it would be very economical indeed, i think.

I dont want to go above 2000cc, and my price range is under $3000. It also has to be an auto, unfortunately.

As far as I can tell, this BMW fits the bill nicely. Was just wondering if the(generally) behave or not.

[bimmer boy 21]

Ive had mine since march and never had one problem, except 3 days ago i left my lights on a needed a jump start and thats it. Depends on how well its been looked after but if you maintain it well and service it regularly it shouldnt cause you much grief at all. Parts are dirt cheap aswell

[hotwire 352]

I would ignore all the extremes of opinions posted here & if you are happy with the car you have in mind & it checks out OK then go for it. If car is as you describe then as already said earlier in this thread - it is priced about right.

Brent (Ducatis) gave a good overall picture of things to watch/look for. As long as they have been previously & are correctly maintained - they are a great little car

[pfm 0]

Ive had mine since march and never had one problem, except 3 days ago i left my lights on a needed a jump start and thats it. Depends on how well its been looked after but if you maintain it well and service it regularly it shouldnt cause you much grief at all. Parts are dirt cheap aswell

Hope you are not confused - we have two 320i - '88 2 door & '89 4 door.

Expect 28 to 34 mpg on the open road at an average speed of 95kph.

Take off the catalityc converter and pick up 2mpg (34mpg) better off.

The '89 has done 180,000 and the '88 has done 131,000 k's (+/-)

Best I got was 41.8 mpg from Wellington to Tokoroa at 96 kph average.

Drive it in " 3 " which is direct gear around town (or up to 65kph), (see Handbook) and manual select on hills.

320's are not expensive to run by comparison - remember, always compare apples with apples.

Even my grandkids reckon E30's are cool (and they live in Auk !)

Paul - E30