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535er

Turbing my E34 535i BMW, tell me what you think :)

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Yes, i'm thinking about doing a crazy ass mod to my Bima. Had a few quotes, this is one of them..

1) Turbo $895.00.

2) Manifold $895.00 - $995.00.

3) Fuel pump (if required) $350.00.

4) ECU $1395.00.

5) Intercooler $295.00.

6) Wastegate $275.00 - $449.00.

I'm currently looking for a manual conversion for my E34 535i, anyone out there have one???????? YES THEY"RE RARE

Been on a forum, heres the brunt of it.

(ME) Hi guys. I'm thinking about bolting on a T series turbo to my original M30 motor in my E34 1989 535i (E34). I'm hoping to be able to push 15 psi of boost. But I want to make sure that my stock management system will be able to deal with positive pressure in the intake manifold. So far I'm thinking about a "GReddy E-Manage" piggy back system. Any idea how I will cope or would ther be a better alternative??

(FELLIS) M30B35, the one in E34 and E32, has 9:1 compression ratio, so I belive it can take 15psi or more, just depends on tuning. With the GReddy, the problem will be AFM which will max out well before these 15psi and as SMT is just modifying AFM signal it won't help much. You will in any case have to use larger injectors and higher fuel pressure and again no tuning will be possible by SMT6.

I will also be going for turbo in my E34 535, but I'll put whole M106 with M30 wiring and computer running ignition and Megasquirt running fuel. Idea also is to tune up to ~1bar of boost and then mabe either go for Megasquirt for ignition also or put one of older Perfectpower products UNI which will then be used to change ignition timing.

(345is)hi Im dan. I know that you can tune a e34 535i with a turbo and not do any mods to the DME, just have to get the cartech rising rate fuel pressure regulator, for increase in boost to match increase in fuel. the stock injectors will only take you so far, as far as how much fuel they will flow. you will have to have an air/fuel mixture gauge to make shure your not leaning out at the higher boost levels. as far as the air flow meter goes you will notice just by feel that the spring tension of the stock 535i AFM vs. the 745i AFM is acually more tension on the naturally aspired engine (535i) This is because of the turbo lag, less air flows through the turbo charged engine during low RPMs and anything before atmosphereic pressure. so that will result in lower tourqe down low, but once you reach boost then the power comes in.

so If you do any adjusting to the AFM it will most likly be less tension to accomidate for the lag. but then what about the fuel delivery for the high boost it will have less then naturally aspired engine right? not if you put a cartech rising rate fuel pressure regulator, this will acomidate for the more air flow, Boost! also the stock AFM from a 535i has an input voltage of 5v and an output range of 0-5 volts, the 745i AFM operates with a 10 volt input and 0-10 volt range. also a 745i AFM has a totaly different voltage output curve, it is more flat through the low load and at the higher load higher rpm it jumps up quickly to accomidate for the boost increase. but my point is that the 745i AFM is fully or close to fully open at the stock 6psi of boost, so you just logicaly think that you need to make spring tension higher so it wont be fully open until it reaches the new boost limit you have achieved. but that cant be done because it screws up idle and normal driving conditions. when you hit WOT (wide open throttle) the computer sends more fuel to the engine, on bolth 745i and 535i. so useing the stock air flow meter is fine you just have to accomidate the boost with more fuel by way of a carteck RRFPR. there is also devieces avlable that can modify your AFM's voltage signal to the computer at all different loads and rpms to be able to get the perfect fuel curve. even coming from you stock air flow meter, or you can even upgrade to a MAF sensor. But i could go on and on, I hope you have got some helpful info from this, good luck

Tell me what you think or ideas. cheers

Edited by 535er

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talk to marty .

he has done it .

red535t

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Can you PLEASE do it so I can copy you?

I will require photos and a detailed description :)

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If you do it don't put a crappy trade me wastegate on, no of a few people who have done this only for it to hold open and not control the boost properly.Which resulted in a hole in the block in one case :mellow:

Use a reputable brand.

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Can you PLEASE do it so I can copy you?

I will require photos and a detailed description :)

so far ive been told I wont have to do internals as I will be running a lower boost till I can some extra moola together to do so, so theres a start. (6 - 7 psi)

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If you do it don't put a crappy trade me wastegate on, no of a few people who have done this only for it to hold open and not control the boost properly.Which resulted in a hole in the block in one case :mellow:

Use a reputable brand.

hell no, ganna go a well known brand for that, wouldnt mind a scremer pipe aswell ;)

the only pain in the ass at the moment is finding a manual conversion :(

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Screamer pipe won't pass wof, consider the $350 its costs to have the car certified so its legal on the road too.

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Screamer pipe won't pass wof, consider the $350 its costs to have the car certified so its legal on the road too.

haha good point <_<

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i have a manual kit , whats your offer

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i have a manual kit , whats your offer

str8 up!?

ok, considering I seen a 5 spd, with shaft, flywheel and clutch go for $800 on trademe not that long ago, this is if you have computer for box, maybe loom if I have to change plug under car for box, etc etc etc, $1500?

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