nze30m3 0 Report post Posted December 20, 2007 Hi guys, Ive asked a few help questions here lately and both have been great... got the right power steering fluid and fixed the brake light thanks to glenn from botany motor worx.... I thought that i should actually fill you guys in on what ive been playing with. I bought a M325i facelift e30 about 5 months ago. slightly cracked head = water in oil = extreamely discounted purchase price. found a replacement engine - m20b25 off an auto with way less kms. Then things sat as work comitments took first place... about 4 weeks ago i started the transplant, which involved preping the new engine, ie clean, paint - n eeds to look the part, if you know what i mean... did the swap - it took longer to get the old one out then to get the new one in - probably mainly because its familiar ground the second time round... complications i had in removing the engine was mainly to do with the ecu plug... it was a laugh cause the berkley manual said remove the plug from the ecu located behind the glove box... glove box on a left hand drive car so under the drivers side on this side of the world.... hehehe well in my defence, its my first time... Also had problems removing outletmanifold - which was an aftermarket job that was welded directly to first mufler so had to cut the pipes just after gearbox. I also installed a short shifter - which reduced the throw heaps. igts a short shifter that has an aluminium housing that replaces the teflon lock of the original, and secures via a c clip underneath. complications afterwards was that the brake light stayed on, landed up being the switch popped out of its fitting due to aircon pipes putting strain on the switch... easy fix. putting the headers and exhaust back on proved to be a mission. I decided to get the guys at pit stop manukau to take care of it, and they custom made a flange system for me so now its removable.... thanks Jared at pitstop. Now i have the following concerns that im hopeing you guys can help me with: 1) i still have a pat pat noise on exceleration - which sounds to me like there might an exhaust leak... im intending on removing the headers and exhaust this weekend, so will inspect thoroughly... Can you guys think of any other causes that i can investigate? 2) there is a flutter sound from the egine which i think is a leaking outlet manifold... i reused the gasket from the engine and suspect that its not sealing correctly. I have ordered replacement gaskets from Euro Italia and hope to receive them tomorrow. so the exhaust and manifold flutter will hopefully be sorted this weekend... Can you guys think of any other causes that i can investigate? 3) the tapids also seem to be a little noisy... bummer that id didnt adjust them before i put the engine in...never mind, this is one job i will have to do soon... If i delayed this one for a while - would it cause damage? 4) the short shifter is nice and short and clicky, but its a strain to get into reverse and 5th or out of... is this causing any damage? the shortshifter is sitting dead centre instead of towards the left side as per normal. is this a problem? 5) there is a sound when in neutral that sounds like a loose spinning bearing... as soon as i put slight preasure on the clutch it gos. My thinking it that its the release bearing. I packed the centre of the bearing as per manual - was there anything else that i needed to do? will this cause any damage? 6) now the item that im most concerned about is a noise / runble i get when i turn the engine off. its like a clatter. his one has got me, as i cant pin point it. its not always present and sometimes slight and sometimes longer and louder... do you guys know what this could be? more info that might help.... I've used $20 oil, just for the first week, so to run through and clean out and plan on changing this weekend - what do you guys use? is this causing the clatter? Ive also got a planned cooling system flush this wekend, and will be using 50/50 antifreeze as per manual. engine temp guage is always a notch to half a notch below midle... fan seems to be working fine. idle is just below 1k. Do i need a tuneup? is the timing perhaps the problem? I think and hope that there is nothing else that might crop up.... touch wood... so guys, this is my story and hopefully you uys can assist.... merry xmas to you all, and safe driving over this crazy season.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ducatiss 1 Report post Posted December 20, 2007 (edited) Timing if its too advanced can cause a real clatter on acceleration (even light acceleration will do it) However if yours is a motronic ecu that "shouldnt" be a problem. Is your engine "running on" when switched off? This can cause a clatter as you describe and the cause can range from timing to carbon buildup in the combustion chambers and also over heating. Your temp guage should not go above the half way mark when idling or driving. Suggest bleeding your cooling system asap. Instructions are somewhere on this forum. Dont let it run hot as you will end up cracking the head! The tappets can be a bit noisy on these engines. You wont cause immediate damage if they aren't too far out, but suggest you adjust these asap. You will need to find the instructions either from your manual or the forum somewhere. Suggest you only adjust when the engine is cold (ie left over night) and once adjusted, go over them all again and check the clearances. Others will be able to add to this info. Well done though for giving this a go - the best way to learn. Edited December 20, 2007 by ducatiss Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted December 20, 2007 (1) & (2) sounds like exhasut manifold leak. Use new gaskets, studs & nuts... could also be a poor weld where it was modified (3) Adjust them (cold) directions in Bently (4) Remove balance weight from lever, the gearlever boot fowls the gearlever and prevents full gearlever travel (5) Manual gearboxes rattle in nuetral....its gear backlash...if in doubt, change the oil... use automatic G3 full synthetic ( yes I know its manual... auto trans oil is the correct oil ) (6) Not sure, would have to hear it... buy a cheap stethiscope and learn how to use it, to locate the noise Change your engine oil and filter.. use a good quality 15w40 oil ...we use ELF Use BMW antifreeze its cheap $15 for 1.5 litres, you need 2 bottles...I would also change the thermostat.... just to be on the safe side...these do fail Hope that helps Cheers Glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted December 20, 2007 Just a little add on here Noises can be a very difficult thing to advise on in a forum. Noises are interpreted quite differently by a driver & a technician. In most cases a good technician will know exactly what it is when hearing, and in some cases feeling it. If in doubt, find a good technician and get him to check it first. We could end up sending you on a wild goose chase by giving you advise in here. When diagnosing faults all our sensors are used, hearing, feel and sight. Noises will also react to different driving style and will respond to different loads put on the engine, g/box or vehicle. If your in doubt, dont start ripping things to pieces... get someone knowledgable to check it first Cheers Glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nze30m3 0 Report post Posted December 21, 2007 Timing if its too advanced can cause a real clatter on acceleration (even light acceleration will do it) However if yours is a motronic ecu that "shouldnt" be a problem. Is your engine "running on" when switched off? This can cause a clatter as you describe and the cause can range from timing to carbon buildup in the combustion chambers and also over heating. Your temp guage should not go above the half way mark when idling or driving. Suggest bleeding your cooling system asap. Instructions are somewhere on this forum. Dont let it run hot as you will end up cracking the head! The tappets can be a bit noisy on these engines. You wont cause immediate damage if they aren't too far out, but suggest you adjust these asap. You will need to find the instructions either from your manual or the forum somewhere. Suggest you only adjust when the engine is cold (ie left over night) and once adjusted, go over them all again and check the clearances. Others will be able to add to this info. Well done though for giving this a go - the best way to learn. thanks for the response. its a motronic. i initialy thought it was the running on problem, but then its not exactly that... temp guage doesnt go above half way. cooling system was bled - i will be changing cooling fluid and oil this weekend. I also got some new gaskets for the manifold - i plan on removing the headers and checking the exhaust joints aswell as maybe getting the headers mounting plate skimmed as it might be warped slightly... ill post the results if i get it all done.... kids and wife permitting...hehehe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nze30m3 0 Report post Posted December 21, 2007 (1) & (2) sounds like exhasut manifold leak. Use new gaskets, studs & nuts... could also be a poor weld where it was modified (3) Adjust them (cold) directions in Bently (4) Remove balance weight from lever, the gearlever boot fowls the gearlever and prevents full gearlever travel (5) Manual gearboxes rattle in nuetral....its gear backlash...if in doubt, change the oil... use automatic G3 full synthetic ( yes I know its manual... auto trans oil is the correct oil ) (6) Not sure, would have to hear it... buy a cheap stethiscope and learn how to use it, to locate the noise Change your engine oil and filter.. use a good quality 15w40 oil ...we use ELF Use BMW antifreeze its cheap $15 for 1.5 litres, you need 2 bottles...I would also change the thermostat.... just to be on the safe side...these do fail Hope that helps Cheers Glenn thanks heaps glenn fo he imput... Ive planned to do the following anyway, so might do these first and then maybe try and get down to you: 1) will change engine oil and filter and gear box oil 2) going to remove headers to check welds, change gasket and get headers skimmed 3) will change cooling system too. The only mission i have now is where to get elf oil, head studs, nuts, thermostat and bmw cooling fluid this side of xmas? will try Euro italia tomorrow morning... but i think they might be clossed... thanks again for the help.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted December 21, 2007 You dont have to use ELF oil....thats just wot we use Engine : 15w40 semi or full synthetic G/box : G3 full synthetic Diff : 75w90 synthetic Antifreeze : Use BMW if you can or a non phosphorus antifreeze....do not use Prestone The rest of the bits could be a problem if people are closed tho Most places are open Monday tho Were closed till the 7th and I fly out of here on Monday Cheers Glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
