E36 ABS troubles solved. DIY solution.

[tintop 10]

Around Xmas time our e36 328i coupe produced the ABS light. With no dealer nearby, and the ones that were less than 2 hrs away were booked solid for two weeks, even for a fault code check.

We started with the fuses and relays which seemed ok, could cycle the ABS pump, etc.

Next was the sensors on each wheel, they all measured 1.1k on the multimeter, so they were fine. Cleaned at same time.

We were stumped, and not being able to get the fault codes out without visiting the stealership pissed us off haha.

Took it into the stealership, three fault codes came up. Two were fixed with a relay replacement at $74+gst + labour of some huge amount + code check of $30+gst.

Code 33 remained. Operation of rear inlet valve faulty. Basically means you need a new ABS module. BMW price? forget it, well over $1000 + extortionate labour charge. They suggested some engineering firm in Tauranga I think, at a cost of $450+ to repair the unit. I had also seen a guy advertising on Trademe for $250, this looked like a better deal. But thought we could do it for cheaper.

How much cheaper? 76 cents. The cost of the wire to rewire the solenoids in the module. Nothing wrong with the valves at all, just the sh*t wiring that ATE did when the car was built.

Heres a link how to http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/203293

If you have a ABS problem with your e36 emitting valve codes it will more than likely be the wiring inside the unit.

[kiwi535 538]

THATS A GREAT TIP....Probably will apply to every other model too!

[Yuen 16]

Great to hear you got it solved for so cheap mate! Must be right up there with the cheapest fixes in the world. Thanks for sharing.

[*Glenn* 854]

Around Xmas time our e36 328i coupe produced the ABS light. With no dealer nearby, and the ones that were less than 2 hrs away were booked solid for two weeks, even for a fault code check.

We started with the fuses and relays which seemed ok, could cycle the ABS pump, etc.

Next was the sensors on each wheel, they all measured 1.1k on the multimeter, so they were fine. Cleaned at same time.

We were stumped, and not being able to get the fault codes out without visiting the stealership pissed us off haha.

Took it into the stealership, three fault codes came up. Two were fixed with a relay replacement at $74+gst + labour of some huge amount + code check of $30+gst.

Code 33 remained. Operation of rear inlet valve faulty. Basically means you need a new ABS module. BMW price? forget it, well over $1000 + extortionate labour charge. They suggested some engineering firm in Tauranga I think, at a cost of $450+ to repair the unit. I had also seen a guy advertising on Trademe for $250, this looked like a better deal. But thought we could do it for cheaper.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

That was a great fix, for you. This is a well know problem, however it is only one of the problems that can occur inside these pumps. The actual control unit can give problems and so can the valves. The reason why the pumps have the wiring made that way is to stop vibration transferring into the control unit.

Ohm meters are great to check continuity & resistance, however, you must also drive the vehicle with the scanner and check that KPH readings from each speed sensor are within 1-2 kph of each other. Different size tyres will effect this and on some cars, spacing of the speed sensor to the chopper ring is also critical (especially Audi's & VW's)

Dependant on fault codes, and they are not always just valve fault codes, we get Rob @ Powerstop Engineering in Tauranga to do all our pumps (not just BMW) and the price varies dependant on the work required. He has a test bench that he can run the pump on and simulate actuation. Not all the pumps are the same and nor is the software. He repairs the pumps, wiring, valving faults, software faults and flushes the units, tests actuation and clears the fault codes with a 1yr warranty. I think that his prices are reasonable, cheaper than alot of the so called brake repair specialists (and some dont do it properly)

The normall retail price for this repair is around $400 + on/off labour + bleed the brake system and changing the brake fluid. From a retail point of view, warranty and our legal obligation to the public a retail price for this repair in total would be around $700 incl. A BMW dealer would charge more because of their charge out rate. New ABS pumps can cost as much as $4000.oo. We have only had to fit a new pump once, on an Audi that someone had tried to fix (DIY)

If the repair is carried out as described on the link, and its not done properly, you will screw the ABS control unit.

If you feel capable, do it, but just be very careful that you wire it correctly. I would also suggest not doing it on the car, take the pump off and do it on a bench with good lighting. Once done the fault codes will still need to be cleared from most systems to turn the ABS light off. The fault code may also be recorded in other control units on the vehicle as well. The ABS pump is the first link in the canbus system and has priority over other control units. Dependant on vehicle options and systems. ABS faults can also effect DME, EGS, ZKE, ASC & KOMBI control units.

The systems must be scanned and any fault codes erased. You always do this first to also confirm that you actually do have an ABS pump fault, especially on E46's, E39's, Audi's (all models) & VW's.

I would also add, there is alot of great info on the internet & forums, alot of this information is great, but there is also alot of missinformation as well, be very wary, and if you dont feel capable, dont try some of the fixes yourself. It could cost you more than a professional doing the repair.

Cheers

Glenn

Edited February 14, 2008 by botanymotorworx