E30 5lug conversion

[IPLEZR 0]

think this is in the correct thread,

im wanting to do a 5 stud conversion on my e30 and im just wanting to know if any1 has info on this. i know of the 318ti rear end bolting in but im having trouble deciding what to do at the front? what would be affordible and practicle.

thanks

[3series 0]

I think some people run E28 front struts but one of hte lower mounts needs to be changed.

E30-323ti I think is the guy to talk to.

[hybrid 1044]

several of ways to do this..

the z3 m-coupe way (expensive, what brendon and I have done)

the e30 m3 way (or both) (expensive)

the e36 / e28 way (E30-323ti, second hand parts)

[E30-323ti 66]

several of ways to do this..

the z3 m-coupe way (expensive, what brendon and I have done)

the e30 m3 way (or both) (expensive)

the e36 / e28 way (E30-323ti, second hand parts)

E36 front & E36 ti rear, is the easiest & cheapest.

Q. Why are you going 5 lug?? That will give a better indication of what to go for.

[Brennan 0]

redrill your hubs kidding

you can also mod the spindle off an e36 and use e36 hubs i think. I read it on e30tech there but have no idea if its a good idea or not the ones above me sound much more reliable.

[IPLEZR 0]

E36 front & E36 ti rear, is the easiest & cheapest.

Q. Why are you going 5 lug?? That will give a better indication of what to go for.

reason for going 5 stud is ill be pushing over 400hp at the wheels by the end of this year and dont like the 4 stud.

(lost my licence so time to save up and make it go hell fast haha)

i know about the e36ti rear end but im interested about the e36 front end, can you explain more please

[CamB 48]

If it's 400hp at the wheels you might want to at least consider the expensive M Coupe option for the rear.

I researched this recently (mostly on the basis that 5 stud wheels are comparatively cheap and plentiful compared to decent sized 4x100 ones in E30 offset). My conclusion is that other than going the E30 M3 way, there is a lot of hearsay and not much proof out there.

The issue doesn't seem to be getting them in there - a combination of E36 bits seems to go fine - it is making sure the caster and camber aren't messed up. What I recall is that E36 M3 lower arms restored most of the caster.

The issue is that the parts are expensive for a "lets just try it" exercise.

[E30-323ti 66]

reason for going 5 stud is ill be pushing over 400hp at the wheels by the end of this year and dont like the 4 stud.

Right...

Not "liking" the 4 lug doesn't sound like much of an engineering problem, so you can use what ever means you like to get the 5 lug you do like.

If say the reason was something like, blowing CV's, then that would mean you need M Coupe trailing arms & axles (not likely to find in NZ!), or, like I have done, modify an E28 subframe, TA's & Axles to fit (which involves extensive body/chassis mods, but is cheap if you can DIY & has better geometry). The E36 "ti" Trailing arms use the same CV's as the E30 so won't help this prob.

The other option is to get custom stub axles made to fit the E36 ti trailing arms and use a "6 bolt" CV outboard & inboard (same size as E28 ones), this also means custom axles=expensive if you keep breaking them.

If you are blowing Diffs also, then you need to use a 210 (big case) diff, which also needs bigger axles & minor chassis mods to fit. One from an E28 will bolt into the E30 subframe.

Or use a diff from another manufacturer.

I'd also suggest modifying your driving style, 188's are pretty tough so you must be treating it like an animal!!

(lost my licence so time to save up and make it go hell fast haha)

i know about the e36ti rear end but im interested about the e36 front end, can you explain more please

It sounds like you need a slower car (or a bicycle) if you can't keep a hold of your license in the first place!!

But I'll keep my opinion to myself if you keep your bragging to your self aye!?!?!

My profile lists the E36 front parts to use, it's all "bolt in" so hardly rocket science.

I would suggest converting coilovers as then you have plently of flexibility and it all has to be cert'd anyway...

[hybrid 1044]

e30 m3 front struts are $1600 NZ (just for the struts) new. (go the e36 way on the front) trust me .. its cost me 5k to do the front suspension on my e30.

Rear end .. you need to work out what your going to be doing to your car. Are you going down the drag strip a lot? ..

If your just squeezing the gas on in third and not launching it or doing burnouts .. the 318ti splines and half shafts will be fine.. if not.. your going to need the heavier rear end.

Glenn has done it one way, Brendon and I have done it the other.

I can only speak for the m-coupe way.

PM me if you want some details .. and Ill see if I can send you some stuff to read

[Hartage 0]

"E36 front & E36 ti rear, is the easiest & cheapest."

Do I have a deal!!

Got a complete set of Ti front and rear ends!

Just the Job!

[CamB 48]

My profile lists the E36 front parts to use, it's all "bolt in" so hardly rocket science.

I would suggest converting coilovers as then you have plently of flexibility and it all has to be cert'd anyway...

Can you enlighten the whole internet myth about whether there is or isn't a camber/caster problem after the swap?

Thanks!

Cam

[E30-323ti 66]

Can you enlighten the whole internet myth about whether there is or isn't a camber/caster problem after the swap?

Thanks!

Cam

There is no problem, the wheel sits further back in the well but castor is to the higher end of the spec'd range.

With the E36 struts you can get shims to kick the bottom out the give the desired camber with E30 top plates or use camber plates for easier adjustment and no shims if wide tyres are needed.

[IPLEZR 0]

ok... thanks for all the input, seems i have a bit to think about now.

what i ment by the whole not liking the 4 stud is this... more range of 5stud wheels that suit e30 than 4 stud, at better price, i keep spitting cv's out like tooth picks (yea some coz of my driving but also do take car down the strip and want to race it alot)

diffs iv used have all been open diffs not lsd (one welded up) so smashing the crap out of the spider gears. yes it will be down the strip a fair bit once done (again) and it usually breaks while doing skids hitting 2nd or 3rd.

havnt broke a axil as of yet just cv's and diffs.

and it may not sound like much but 1st time loosing licence after driving for 6 years, not bad compared to my mates lol. not bragging just stating.

will ask more questions when i am on next thanks

im wondering what major mods to chassis etc needed to be done for the modified e28 subframe? im a panelbeater by trade so may be able to do some or know who can for cheap

[hybrid 1044]

Thought I just post some images of ours as I did in PM to IPLEZR.

[Sammy J 1]

WOW thats just beautiful mate, i envy you so bad! wish i had the money cause thats exactly what id do to my e30

[drifty325i 0]

Year your cars bloody amazing mate, i want it bad

[QuickSilver 0]

Stella Artois!

[MR_SAZ 0]

So was that Mcoupe rear brake setup??? looks sexy as!!

[Jeddy 0]

Not sure if you've seen this but bit of info on m3 way

Clickit

[tibbs.james 1]

I have Question on the M3 trailing arm tabs being on the struts. ( mentioned in the article above )

Is it possible to have these mounting tabs welded to a standard E30 325 front strut & use a standard 325 19mm swaybar with the M3 links to avoid buying an expensive new front sway bar ?

Thinking along the lines of, tabs could be manufactured easily, i know a good welder & if the only thing i had to order was the links from bmw it would not cost a lot to get the better performing swaybar setup ?

[hybrid 1044]

Yeah it is possible, infact I think hi-tek might still have some (4lug 325i ones) like this from a coil over setup he purchased and didn't need the struts as he has an m3.