E30 issues - shocks, steering rack, failed wof

[tire 10]

Hey all.

My E30 went for its WOF today and failed due mainly to a leaking front shock absorber (apparently both front ones need to be replaced) and too much play in the steering due to a worn/old/tired steering column/rack ?

I was told the following needs to happen.

-Steering column sent up to Auckland to be stripped and repaired (anywhere between $350 - $750 I am told).

-New front shocks ($300 - $600 I am told)

:(

This really cripples me. When I bought this E30 I paid a price for a good one and it has turned out to be not so. I really want to know if there are any other (cheaper) options to fixing the above issues. I want to do labor myself with help from the Haynes manual and bimmersport.

ie:

-How much for a replacement second hand steering rack?

-How much for replacement second hand front shocks and is there any point in buying second hand as they are likely to be worn anyway? Would I be better to buy all new shocks (and springs?) through Keith to get a little drop and tighter ride?

-I understand shocks and springs can be installed by a backyard bandit but what about steering column replacement? Does the engine need to come out in order to get it out? It looks kinda tangled up with the exhaust manifold?

While I have been learning a lot I have not got around to learning the suspension side of things so I don't know if you need to buy new springs to match the shocks and get the 35mm drop?

It's a real shame because I was hoping to get this wof painlessly and finish off the sale of this car so I could save (knowledge and money) up and buy a cheap project M20 E30, throw myself in the deep end, and have some fun. However now I could never sell knowing about these faults.

Seriously hoping that the bimmersport E30 people will come out of the woodwork here and save my bacon. I know I have not contributed a lot but I'd look like a tard if I did as there are so many knowledgeable people here. You can bet once I know enough to help someone out I will be leaping at the opportunity! However, here is something I found really handy for forum use with the firefox browser. It is a spell-checker just like with msword and has saved me alot of edits! Enjoy.

Thanks in advance!

Max.

Edited March 10, 2008 by tire

[Silver Fox 43]

Front shocks I'd get done as they are a pain. Steering rack is an easy fix, get a good second hand one, shouldn't be more than $100 to 150, and change it yourself. Will take you some time, but fairly straight foward. Before you do that, check that it's not just the rack ends, the rack itself may be fine, the inner rack ends tend to go, also called tie rods. These are also an easy change, and only around $20 each, you need 2 of. Don't forget to get a wheel alignment after you're done. Check out this site for instructions.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticl...nt-Overhaul.htm

[HELLBM 1531]

Steering rack: $90 .I have heaps of them

Call or text if you need anything.

Regards Ray

0212435526

0212HELLBM

[tire 10]

Thanks for the link Fox, I can't believe I hadn't thought to look there earlier. So from what I gather the steering _column_ is the part from the steering wheel to the bit where the lines plumb in and the steering _rack_ connects to the wheels and runs adjascent to the column. I cannot remember if I was told the rack or the column was the issue I must check that again.

Cheers Ray I have you in mind!

Edited June 26, 2008 by tastic

[kiwi535 538]

You havent been ripped off,welcome to the joys of older car ownership....The column hasnt got any parts to cause vauge steering,the box has.It can sometimes be adjusted,loose steering can be caused by play in all the linkages between steering box and the wheels.

Your wof inspection sheet will have the fault written on it

This is why sometimes going to the experts is worth a few extra dollars

[CamB 48]

It could just be the bushing in the joiner in the steering column - you really need to figure out exactly what failed. It's not uncommon for them to fail - it's number 3 here, if that link works. But don't go buy anything until you know what needs replacing.

You need a couple of specialised tools to change the front shocks. You may or may not need a rattle gun to get the top nut off, and you almost definitely need spring compressors (I'd say 100% certain if you have std springs). It's totally doable DIY though.

Edited March 10, 2008 by CamB

[zenetti 0]

front shocks are easy to do, I was a "tech" newbie too when I did mine. You will definitely need spring compressors, A rattle gun makes life easier, and you wil have to split a ball joint apart. It is quite an easy job. Can't help with the steering rack though sorry, but as other people have said check all the ball joints tie rod ends etc as well as they can cause play if worn.

[Mike 1]

as others have said check out exactly what needs doing with regards to play in the steering before buying anything.

Spring compressors are needed for stock springs, as for rattle gun this depends on the top of the shock shaft, some have an extra 'step' where you can use a spanner to keep the shaft from turning.

Other things that are needed are a vice (or some way to hold the thing still) and some plumbers pipe grips to undo the top collar. Everything else is just basic tools. Get a mate who's done it before if you can.

Edited March 10, 2008 by Mike

[tire 10]

Thanks all, I am going to get some front shocks through our sponsor Keith. I am not sure whether I should go for the lowering springs as well. I believe the lowering springs are installable without compressors (so I could do it myself) which offsets some of the cost vs using stock springs an having to get them professionally installed.

It's all good to use old rear shocks with the new front ones aye?

As for the steering play I am told the whole rack will be buggered so a whole replacement one will need to be got. I forgot to ask if it could be that part #3 here but I cant call again as I just rung up twice.

If I get a rack from you Ray, how do i know it is not also buggered? Do you have any that you know are all good? Thanks.

When I get this stuff and tackle working with a car for the first time it would be great if I could have a hand... any Wellington E30 specialists want to help me out? I can give you beer... or mow your lawns... or something?

Cheers all.

[CamB 48]

I believe the lowering springs are installable without compressors (so I could do it myself) which offsets some of the cost vs using stock springs an having to get them professionally installed.

It's all good to use old rear shocks with the new front ones aye?

Someone else can answer on the steering.

You need spring compressors to take the springs off too. I'm sure someone could chime in with some rangi way of doing it, but its not safe. They're under heaps of pressure and you cannot safely take off the top nut without compressing the springs. It may be that the shorter springs can go in without the compressors.

If the rear shocks aren't controlling the springs well it will handle like sh1t. Experience suggests they'll only fail shocks in a warrant when they're far beyond stuffed, so that doesn't mean your rears are good (or bad) just because they passed. So... it isn't possible to say over the internet if the old rear shocks are ok.

[Mike 1]

You need spring compressors to take the springs off too. I'm sure someone could chime in with some rangi way of doing it, but its not safe. They're under heaps of pressure and you cannot safely take off the top nut without compressing the springs. It may be that the shorter springs can go in without the compressors.

the shortened e30 shocks I've dealt with were all captive but only with the top nut done up, ie no compressors needed. If you aren't sure if this is the case then use spring compressors.

Front shocks are around $150 each, rears should be around half that. will make a huge difference if you do all of them.