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JiB

Manual vs Powersteering information

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Just wondering if I should be changing over to the manual steering rack (out of a '83 323)? Currently have a looped powersteering rack in the car.

I'm afraid that the manual rack's going to be too slow? (Well, even slower than the 325's powersteering rack <_< )

.....and how difficult is it to hookup powersteering for an E30 using the E36 rack and M20 motor?

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Really up to you, I also have a manual rack but to date haven't used in mine. I have simply removed the belt & left everything in situ. I too understand that the manual rack is slower than the power unit - hense not convinced on changing.

Second question - not sure on plumbing variations there.

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By slower you mean what? More turns to lock?

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manual does have more turns lock to lock, 4.1 compared to 4.0 or something minor like that. I dont like using lock to lock to describe a rack because this varies with the amount of travel a rack has, an whether a rack is variable or linear also makes a difference.

I also know that theres 2 models of manual racks available, one has a steering damper, the other doesn't. I also think that the 2 models have different ratios but not sure how valid that is.

Edit - Just checked my manual rack (damper) and its roughly 4.2 turns, but obviously can't compare wheel angle against anything.

Edited by Mike

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If JiB's car makes it to Taupo, around the track, and back, I have a good idea.... he/we could just compare the turns lock to lock (and yes mike - we'll check the wheel angle on the way through too).

I don't like the looped power steering - it looks bodgy.

I think Jonathan's already on his way to Taupo, but its funny coz he doesn't mention the chain of events which has lead to this issue... I shall expose his shame (lets face it - "my shame" because most of this was my idea).

... old engine mounts means the engine moves around too much at the track, which means...

... the power steering pulley rubbed on the lower radiator hose (creating a pinhole leak), leading to (the shame)...

... removing the PS, looping it, cutting the lower hose 2 inches shorter and it still fits(!).

All because of dodgy engine mounts, and the inability to change them (or get a new radiator hose) on a Saturday.

I'm in favour of the manual rack since it is there and complete and I don't really approve of looping the PS. I agree it is suboptimal compared to a shorter ratio e36 rack. Reinstalling the PS is not a big deal given the engine mounts will (surely) get replaced, but even reading that guide I get nervous at the RHD vs LHD thing and finding the right lines etc. I guess there are always custom lines.

Edited by CamB

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We've been running one of our E30 race cars for 2 years now with a disconnected ps rack. No apparent problems, works fine, similar to the manual rack in feel.

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Did you leave the PS in and remove the belt? Or something else?

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Removed the pump and plumbing, converted the reservoir to a gearbox overflow/breather, drained the system, and cut and crimped the metal pipes at the rack end, leaving the ps rack in. :rolleyes:

Edited by Silver Fox

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Well, back from Taupo. Steering took a bit of getting used to. I whinged, then got over it. Stiffer Engine mounts will be on the way.

Feel is a lot better on track. It was raining today and the track had puddles and things. "Manual" rack proved very useful, told me exactly when the fronts were losing it. Made me more confident braking too.

Conclusion, I probably won't want to go back to powersteering. If the manual rack is the same ratio of degree/mm as the powersteering rack I'd gladly change over. But the last thing I want is a slower rack now.

Silver Fox: So you're running a powersteering rack....dry? Our rangi loop was leaking...and it may have been my imagination but the steering got lighter and more direct as the day progressed..is it true the racks come pre-greased from factory so powersteer fluid isn't needed?

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Not sure, but I removed the rack and applied a little grease to both ends and ran it back and fowards a few times, and all's good.

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