E39 Front Passenger Speaker Crackling

[dereklau007 1]

No doubt everyone would have come across this situation with the stock speakers failing (my assumption) and almost like its picking up white noises. Is there anything that I can do or should I use that as an excuse to upgrade the front mid bass speakers?

On the subject of mid bass speakers, is there a good alternative that won't break the bank? I was looking at some Alpine's (Type E or S I forget) and also Infinity Kappa's which are both within budget and also 5.25" too which will slot in nicely. Any other suggestions?

You will have to forgive me if this has been covered before but with new products and also new knowledge I might be able to have an effective fix without spending too much money.

Thanks guys!

Derek

[jochen 4]

No doubt everyone would have come across this situation with the stock speakers failing (my assumption) and almost like its picking up white noises. Is there anything that I can do or should I use that as an excuse to upgrade the front mid bass speakers?

On the subject of mid bass speakers, is there a good alternative that won't break the bank? I was looking at some Alpine's (Type E or S I forget) and also Infinity Kappa's which are both within budget and also 5.25" too which will slot in nicely. Any other suggestions?

You will have to forgive me if this has been covered before but with new products and also new knowledge I might be able to have an effective fix without spending too much money.

Have you actually looked at the speaker?

My E39 had 2 x speakers in the front doors not working when I got it: driver's bass, and passender tweeter.

I took the door panels off to inspect, and found that the passenger tweeter was unplugged, and that a bolt was missing from the passenger bass speaker housing (had fallen into door), and the other bolt was loose - a source of rattles.

With the bass spekaer on the other door I found that it the virbation damping foam from the electric window switch jammed against the speaker cone, preventing any cone movement. Relocate the foam to its correct position and it was fixed. And of course checked that all bolts were tight.

I blammed the import inspection people for both problems.

So I'd suggest you take the door panels off, check all speakers are clear, and all bolts are tight. Listen to the speakers with the panels off.

A speaker with a distorted voice coil is easy to distinguish due to the scratching distortion it makes, but you must make sure that the voice coil has nothing else interferring with it first.

[Apex 693]

What power source are you running?? I only ask as there is little point buying expensive components if you can’t feed them properly.

I would sagest some cheap components and upgrade both your bass and your tweeter at the same time. Even a $120 set will be 20x better than factory and probably run at 20% from a factory amp.

[jochen 4]

What power source are you running?? I only ask as there is little point buying expensive components if you can’t feed them properly.

I would sagest some cheap components and upgrade both your bass and your tweeter at the same time. Even a $120 set will be 20x better than factory and probably run at 20% from a factory amp.

The E39 amplifier delivers 20 watts per speaker

Multiply by number of speakers (5 or 6 per side, depending on what amplifier and sound system is fitted) and you find that the amplifier is a 100W per channel, or a 120 watt per channel amplifier

And that's the standard BMW system

To upgrade the sound, replace speakers only. No need to replace the high quality sophisticated BMW amplifier.

[hotwire 352]

Had to replace a front L/H woofer a while ago in our E39 - was becoming scratchy - noticeable with voice reproduction mainly.

Looked to retrofit aftermarket but required mods to factory mounting set up so replaced with a new OE unit - about $80 from BMW. I dont have a problem with the factory set up

[dereklau007 1]

Thanks for the tips. I have had a look and everything is all connected properly (from my understanding) and the distortion/crackling isn't all the time but just at random times when you really want to enjoy the music. In no way do I turn the music on insanely loud but I have a feeling that maybe the speaker has just given up.

With the OE speaker was it $80 for a pair or for just the one? I was thinking of fitting an aftermarket pair on but since there might be mounting modifications then it kind of worries me.

Cheers

Derek

[jochen 4]

Thanks for the tips. I have had a look and everything is all connected properly (from my understanding) and the distortion/crackling isn't all the time but just at random times when you really want to enjoy the music. In no way do I turn the music on insanely loud but I have a feeling that maybe the speaker has just given up.

With the OE speaker was it $80 for a pair or for just the one? I was thinking of fitting an aftermarket pair on but since there might be mounting modifications then it kind of worries me.

It'll be just the one speaker.

The USD price is $41.57 fior the woofer on the hi-fi system (part 65138352687)

Be careful:

There are 3 x speaker systems:

Normal (no amplifier, 6-speakers). Woofer = 65138369265

Hi-Fi (with amplifier, 10-speakers) Woofer = 65138352687

Top-Hi-Fi (with DSP-amplifer, 12-speakers) Woofer = 65138369069

Check the part number of your speaker when you pull it out.

As yours is a NZ-new, you might only have the low 6-speaker system (I've seen a few NZ-New E39s where they scrimped on the sound system)

The OEM woofer speakers are glued air-tight to a sealed tuned enclosure, which is sperate to the door enclosure.

I am not sure if the enclosure is included with the speaker - if not it will be fun unsticking the glue! Of course, the replacement speaker will need to be glued and sealled air tight as well.

[Apex 693]

If you do go after market just make some spacers out of MDF, it is relatively easy to do and will cost you a pittance. The sound quality will be dramatically improved and it’s a great DIY project.

http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?p=30196

[hotwire 352]

It'll be just the one speaker.

The USD price is $41.57 fior the woofer on the hi-fi system (part 65138352687)

Be careful:

There are 3 x speaker systems:

Normal (no amplifier, 6-speakers). Woofer = 65138369265

Hi-Fi (with amplifier, 10-speakers) Woofer = 65138352687

Top-Hi-Fi (with DSP-amplifer, 12-speakers) Woofer = 65138369069

Check the part number of your speaker when you pull it out.

As yours is a NZ-new, you might only have the low 6-speaker system (I've seen a few NZ-New E39s where they scrimped on the sound system)

The OEM woofer speakers are glued air-tight to a sealed tuned enclosure, which is sperate to the door enclosure.

I am not sure if the enclosure is included with the speaker - if not it will be fun unsticking the glue! Of course, the replacement speaker will need to be glued and sealled air tight as well.

As Jochen said - $80 for one. No, it comes seperate - you have to remove it from enclosure (carefully) & refit replacement - easy enough to do.

Personally I don't think there is a lot to be gained by changing to a different speaker set up - when working correctly - the OE system is fine & besides - it requires butchering the OE enclosure assy to accomodate different speakers. The originals are also matched appropriately to the factory amp output - no gain to be had from putting a zillion watt speaker to a 20 watt output amp. - A common misconception it seems.

Edited June 6, 2008 by hotwire

[Five Star 0]

To upgrade the sound, replace speakers only. No need to replace the high quality sophisticated BMW amplifier.

Bahahaha.

Got a budget? I suggest the jaycar splits as normal for someone on a budget. And for the love of god, go aftermarket.

[hotwire 352]

Bahahaha.

Got a budget? I suggest the jaycar splits as normal for someone on a budget. And for the love of god, go aftermarket.

Have you heard the OE system in these cars to be recommending aftermarket system?

[Five Star 0]

Yes, and a decent aftermarket system will be far better.

There's a reason BMW sell cars and the likes of alpine, boston, DD sell car audio.

Each to their own (audio budget)

[jochen 4]

Yes, and a decent aftermarket system will be far better.

There's a reason BMW sell cars and the likes of alpine, boston, DD sell car audio.

The BMW system is highly integrated, no after market system can offer the same radio reception performance (ability to control 3 x antennas on FM for example), the same integration with instrument cluster, etc.

And the majority of the BMW system is made by Alpine.

The higher-quality tuner is made by Becker

Does that change your perceptions?

Edited June 9, 2008 by jochen

[Five Star 0]

Not really, as I've heard the system.

I'm not saying it's bad, far from it.. I'm just saying you can get better.

[dereklau007 1]

Thanks for all the tips and the information; it's all much appreciated.

As for budgetwise... I want a good sound but I wouldn't say that I'm an audiophile so anything is better than its current state so definitely nothing that will break the bank.

[Five Star 0]

If you give me a price range I can give you a list of components and coaxs for you to have a listen to and see which one suits you.

[dereklau007 1]

If you give me a price range I can give you a list of components and coaxs for you to have a listen to and see which one suits you.

That's a really good question... I haven't really thought about my price range but I was thinking only replacing the mid bass speaker and nothing else? So if I was to go aftermarket I would say just a pair of decent Mid bass speakers and under $200 I would say?

Cheers

Derek Lau

[Five Star 0]

Around 200 give: Boston S60, Alpine SPS-600C, Hertz DSK 165, DLS K6, DLS B6A, Jaycar Precision Response Kevlar Splits.

Those should be the latest models, and will come with a matching tweeter to suit the speakers. I prefer the bostons

Each will sound different to different people, so see which one YOU like. If you find the mid-bass lacking make a template of the holes in the door, and fill them with painted 3 or 6mm mdf held in place by strong tape. It'll make a world of difference.

You'll also be able to get lower than RRP quite easily, especially if you mention them being cheaper pretty much everywhere on the net.

Good luck!

[mammoth 0]

Have you actually looked at the speaker?

My E39 had 2 x speakers in the front doors not working when I got it: driver's bass, and passender tweeter.

I took the door panels off to inspect, and found that the passenger tweeter was unplugged, and that a bolt was missing from the passenger bass speaker housing (had fallen into door), and the other bolt was loose - a source of rattles.

With the bass spekaer on the other door I found that it the virbation damping foam from the electric window switch jammed against the speaker cone, preventing any cone movement. Relocate the foam to its correct position and it was fixed. And of course checked that all bolts were tight.

I blammed the import inspection people for both problems.

So I'd suggest you take the door panels off, check all speakers are clear, and all bolts are tight. Listen to the speakers with the panels off.

A speaker with a distorted voice coil is easy to distinguish due to the scratching distortion it makes, but you must make sure that the voice coil has nothing else interferring with it first.

This forum has prompted me to become a member.

I have just bought an E39 and have similar problems with front woofer.

I'm dying to get stuck into the job of sorting it out.

First thing I want to sort out is; Do you have to disconnect the battery to disable the airbag, or is it not really an issue? Book says disconnect but I have had different opions.

Cheers

[Huttey 0]

Before buying your speakers try another speaker to see if the crackling goes away. I had a similar issue and replaced the speakers only to find the problem was still there and it appears to be an ampifier problem.

[Apex 693]

Yes, and a decent aftermarket system will be far better.

There's a reason BMW sell cars and the likes of alpine, boston, DD sell car audio.

Each to their own (audio budget)

I must say my aftermarket Pioneer system in the E30 shits all over the HI-FI 10 speaker junk in the E60… It has Bluetooth, full IPod control and far superior sound quality… I haven’t heard the Logic 7 upgraded system in the E60 though.

Only stock system I have heard that would rival a decent after market was a Mark Levingston system in a Lexus. http://www.marklevinson.com/

[jochen 4]

I'm dying to get stuck into the job of sorting it out.

First thing I want to sort out is; Do you have to disconnect the battery to disable the airbag, or is it not really an issue? Book says disconnect but I have had different opions.

You can remove the door panel and door speakers without disturbing or touching the airbag. So disconnecting the battery to repair the speaker is not necessary.

[rogan 1]

You can remove the door panel and door speakers without disturbing or touching the airbag. So disconnecting the battery to repair the speaker is not necessary.

Not a neccessity but good practice. I reckon you need to get into the habit of disconnecting the battery.

The front door pods are pretty flimsy. If you can, do some deadening on them which should help improve midbass. The cheap Bostik type basic sound deadening is probably worth doing. A few guys overseas have tried replacing the 5.25 speaker and keeping the pod. They've found that the enclosure is a little bit small. I'd look at the DLS B5. I had the DLS B6 in a very small sealed enclosure in my old Suzuki and it worked well in the small space - in fact it worked better than the DLS UP6 (way more expensive) I tried first.

I agree with 5 star. The factory e39 stereo (think I had 8 speakers, haven't looked in the rear doors yet) is sadly lacking.

To the OP. If the speaker doesn't crackle all the time then the problem could well be elsewhere.

Edited September 9, 2008 by rogan

[jochen 4]

The factory e39 stereo (think I had 8 speakers, haven't looked in the rear doors yet) is sadly lacking.

Actually the E39 came in 3 different speaker setups:

6 speakers: front door full-range + tweeter, rear parcel tray full range

10 speakers: front door tweeter, mid and bass, rear door tweeter, rear parcel tray woofer

14 speakers: front door tweeter, mid and bass, rear door tweeter, rear parcel tray woofer, rear parcel tray subwoofer

The Mid-range speakers in the front door are impossible to replace due to unusual size. Every other speaker can be replaced (carefully, due to the sealed resonance chambers for the bass/ woofers.

[rogan 1]

The Mid-range speakers in the front door are impossible to replace due to unusual size. Every other speaker can be replaced (carefully, due to the sealed resonance chambers for the bass/ woofers.

Just for information, Karl at SLAP in Wellington managed to fit the midrange from the DLS UP36 components in there. The surround had to be trimmed to get it in the hole.