Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted October 25, 2008 Damn I hate it when you are rushed into doing things. Prime example today, my fabricator is heading to Auz tommorow for 2 months! Had to get my sump off, had to drill and get him to weld the oil return fitting to the sump, get it all back together so we could move it to get someone elses car off the hoist.... of course being in such a rush I managed to forget the side of the m50 sump is not completly vertical... End result was something like this: I know this is not ideal what so ever but im thinking, with the turbo being top mount and the drop the oil travels from the drain on the turbo to the fitting on the sump, would it have enough velocity too travel up slightly through the fitting and continue into the sump? If not i will have to cut it off and weld a piece of pipe to counter the angle of the sump and then re-weld the fitting to that. Atleast the main part is over where having to take the sump off to retrieve all the metal shavings from drilling the hole in the sump. While I was at it I became very generouse with loctite and secured the oil pump nut heres hopeing.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted October 25, 2008 Thats not really an ideal oil return set up, you will get a puddle of oil at the bottom all the time. Ideal is straight down with no bends and a baffle in the sump to stop the crank forcing oil up the return tube. It should also be above the crankcase oil level. Buy using fittings you are also resricting the flow because they are smaller inside diameter. You dont need to use hydraulic fittings as the return is not under pressure. Pipe & hose is sufficient, all the same inside diameter as the return outlet on the turbo. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted October 25, 2008 Thanks Glenn. Thats what I thought, a puddle at the bottom of the hose where it bends.. Mite have to take the sump off again and add a baffle in... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
briancol 3 Report post Posted October 25, 2008 Hey Boost Junky, Love your hood emblem. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted October 25, 2008 Pretty impressive aye Be good if you could attacth an emblem like that and keep it permanent lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted October 26, 2008 I think you should do it right (and with the baffle) - it would be really stink to find you had to remove the sump again as oil was backing up into the turbo. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 1 Report post Posted October 26, 2008 I agree with the others, its sucks pulling stuff apart again to fix something you know you should have done right in the first place, (i know). FWIW you dont have to run back into the sump, Ive got mine running into the timing chain cover, just a simple piece of alloy pipe welded to the side with a bead on it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted October 26, 2008 Yea thanks guys. Decided to do it properly aye i dont wanna damage a $2500 turbo.... Hey Mike care to get some pics or sumthn of where u tapped into? Is the timming cover alloy or steel? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 1 Report post Posted October 26, 2008 (edited) alloy cover- simple job, just found a hose the same size as the drain from the skyline Edited October 26, 2008 by Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted October 27, 2008 Hmm that would mean having to take the drivebelt off and the crank pulley... dont have rattle gun. Im gonna stick with the baffle idea in the sump and utilise the current hole and have a pipe comming into it from a verticle direction and just weld that -10 fitting to the end of the pipe. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
