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323e30

Rich Running 325i Problem? E30 Pfl

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Have a 325i e30 pfl engine. Was running fine , removed from car let sit for a while. (in a garage) Re fitted and have the fuel air mix problem.

Spark plugs are black. so i know its running too rich.

Idels fine, does not pulse or stall.

When you put your foot down it Chokes. Even if it only down a little bit. If you rev it out its not as bad as when its just open a small amount. does small backfires aswel

My guess is the ecu has packed a sad?

anyone else had this problem before?

timing sensors on gearbox are both ok (when unpluged car doesnt even start)

Airflow seems ok, (when unpluged it pulses)

fuel lines should be correct way around, ( runs at idel , and from memory pressure reg is a one way valve?)

Edited by 323e30

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BUMP, it aint the ECU as have just tried a mint one from Ray and it did nothing.

Any help would be MINT!

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The AFM may be stuck wide open, the TPS could be shot or you may have a bad contact in the connector hidden by the intake manifold.

The TPS would be where I would look first. It sounds from your description that the ECU may be getting the correct idle posistion signal from the TPS but as soon as the throttle moves above idle it may be seeing WOT from the TPS

Edited by Graeme

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check your fuel pressure regulator-the chances of it being the fault are good since the engine was sitting for a while

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Guest FrantiC

check your fuel pressure regulator-the chances of it being the fault are good since the engine was sitting for a while

+1

Check if there is fuel in the vacuum line from FPR to intake manifold, if there is then the FPR is BAD (Should be no fuel there).

Could also get a Fuel Pressure gauge setup and check your fuel pressure (Bad FPR can raise Fuel Pressure)

Edited by FrantiC

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...so ...so far it could be the temp sender, AFM, TPS, Oxygen sensor, fuel pressure regulator - or something else.

I guess you'll have it sorted in no time then.

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Guest FrantiC

Just obvious things to check though, Not necessarily in need of going through an replacing all.

TPS - When the throttle is Closed, The TPS should make a clicking sound. Not the sound of the butterfly closing, The TPS will click when its closed (If it doesn't, May need to be re-positioned or a new TPS).

AFM - Just look into it make sure it isn't stuck open.. Check the airfilter is clean too.

O2 sensor, Unplug it and if the car runs the exact same then its bad. If it runs worse, then the 02 sensor is fine.

Coolant temp sensor, thats a hard one to test but Is a very likely cause of a rich running engine (If it is reading incorrectly and telling the ECU the engine is still cold it will run richer than it should).

FPR - Check fuel pressure, Make sure there is no fuel in the vacuum line to the FPR.

Edited by FrantiC

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I would say it is worth getting a second hand AFM and just plugging it in and seeing if it works, that will tell you if its anything to do with the AFM or not very quickly. If you get a new temp sensor ( $35 from BMwarehouse, like $70 at repco ) even if it isnt the cause, a new temp sensor and give your car a few more of its original hp back, its amazing how much just replacing a sensor can do.

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Cheers for the help fullas.

I have put a new (mint) AFM from Ray on and it made no difference at all so atleast I can count that out.

Will be trying a new ECU tonight ( BIG thanks to Mathew-MOPS)

If not then I will try the TPS then the O2 sensor. If not then off to see Glenn.

Will let ya's know how it goes tonight.

Cheers

Ashkan

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Fail.

So it wasn't the ECU either.

So that counts out the AFM, ECU and Fuel regulator ( I think)

How do I check if the TPS is forked. Can it be the timing? If so how do I adjust?

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So that counts out the AFM, ECU and Fuel regulator ( I think)

How do I check if the TPS is forked. Can it be the timing? If so how do I adjust?

Check the TPS by measuring the resistance across the plug terminals. The centre terminal is common. There should be no resistance between the centre terminal and one of the outer terminals at idle, at WOT it should switch sides and there should be no resistance between the centre and the other outer terminal.

A bad fuel pressure reg can only cause to low fuel pressure situation, but you describe the car as having fouled plugs- to much fuel.

The timing in Motronic is not adjustable.

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Ahh legend.

Will have a play tommorow and see how it goes.

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Coolant temp sensor, thats a hard one to test but Is a very likely cause of a rich running engine (If it is reading incorrectly and telling the ECU the engine is still cold it will run richer than it should)

For what it's worth, I had a VW Golf with identical symptoms, caused by a wire to the temperature sensor having broken

The temp sensor was open circuit, the ECU thought the motor was -40 degrees, and ran it super rich.

Clogged the plugs, no power, couldn't drive it, lots of black smoke, running super-rich

Re-soldered the wire and voila! It was perfect?

So check the temp sensor that you have continutiy from ECU to the temp sensor on both sides (signal and ground)

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I THINK I have it sussed, cheers to Ernst and the boys at Bavarian.

Turns out the crank angle sensors on the bellhousing were forked. Replacing them now so (hopefully) will be able to start tidying it all up tommorow, wiring up fans and tidying up the wiring.

Cheers for the help fullas

Ashkan

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Sussed.

Was the crank angle sensors on the Bellhousing

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