Battery Help

[JasonL 0]

I have an E30 and im running big audio gear in it. I need to upgrade my alternator as Im getting volts dropping to 9.6v does anyone know a alternator that will fit nicely and have the amp power to help with my problem.

Cheers

Jason

P.S. 1989 E30 Coupe 320i

[*Glenn* 854]

Not the answer you want....but turn the gear off...use it sparingly

You would need to install different mounts to put in a larger alternator, and you would need to install a larger battery. A Din 65 maybe as I dont think youll get a Din 85 in the battery box

Edit: Even doing that you may still have issues. I think that has been covered in here before. Some of the Audio wizzes in here might throw some more suggestions your way

Edited December 4, 2008 by *Glenn*

[rogan 7]

What do you mean "big audio gear"?

And is that 9.6v measured across the battery or at the amps?

[*Glenn* 854]

On most cars running computers...if system voltage goes under 10v ... the car usually stops

[JasonL 0]

What do you mean "big audio gear"?

And is that 9.6v measured across the battery or at the amps?

9.6v across the battery, I have alot of audio in my car 2 subs 4x 6x9 speakers 2x 5.25 speakers 4 amps.

[JasonL 0]

On most cars running computers...if system voltage goes under 10v ... the car usually stops

No my car has never stopped the headunit will turn off if volts drop too low,I also heard low volts is not good for your cars engine thats why I want to fix this problem.

[jochen 4]

I have an E30 and im running big audio gear in it. I need to upgrade my alternator as Im getting volts dropping to 9.6v does anyone know a alternator that will fit nicely and have the amp power to help with my problem.

Cheers

Jason

P.S. 1989 E30 Coupe 320i

To solve your issue you will need a larger battery as well as larger alternator.

If you are consuming sooooo much power then you need to consider a second battery which supplies just the audio system, charged via a blocking diode from the alternator.

Of course, the battery has to be mounted close to the amps.

The other option is to save the money and invest it in health care, you'll need it to fix your hearing loss in a few years time.

[JasonL 0]

To solve your issue you will need a larger battery as well as larger alternator.

If you are consuming sooooo much power then you need to consider a second battery which supplies just the audio system, charged via a blocking diode from the alternator.

Of course, the battery has to be mounted close to the amps.

The other option is to save the money and invest it in health care, you'll need it to fix your hearing loss in a few years time.

Hey thanks for that info, might do the second battery idea. Yeah I could save the money but hey you live once right why not

[Five Star 0]

Get a better battery and lots of thick power wire.

[rogan 7]

9.6v across the battery, I have alot of audio in my car 2 subs 4x 6x9 speakers 2x 5.25 speakers 4 amps.

What types of amps (rms rating etc). Are we talking Explode/Reactor etc amps or real ones.

Is you battery holding charge? 9.6v seems really low. E30's have a pretty pathetic battery tray, suggest you either get something like an orbital blue top, or go the second battry route but you need to factor in the extra cost of wiring and the VSR (voltage sensing relay) you'll need to handle the charging system.

[JasonL 0]

What types of amps (rms rating etc). Are we talking Explode/Reactor etc amps or real ones.

Is you battery holding charge? 9.6v seems really low. E30's have a pretty pathetic battery tray, suggest you either get something like an orbital blue top, or go the second battry route but you need to factor in the extra cost of wiring and the VSR (voltage sensing relay) you'll need to handle the charging system.

I have a 1000d e-audio amp and a soundstream 2000d amp so 3000rms just in subs alone. Battery holds is charge. 9.6v is when there is alot of bass, sits on around 10.2v just running it nicly,yes I was thinking of getting an optima yellow top battery, but it should do much different as its still working off the same alternator. I havnt done the big 3 yet also thought about a second battery but not sure if the alterntor could handal running two batterys.

[rogan 7]

Another option is the Kinetic batteries that Dave in Wellington sells. [email protected]

I'm running a 1000d, a 150x2 and a 40x4 off a 140a alternator and big battery (just a din 92 or din95 can't remember which) and have no problems. Not expecting too many problems with the near-future amplifier upgrade either.

Your battery should sit around 11-12v with car and stereo off, and at 14.xx with engine running and stereo off. Might pay to have your alternator looked at just to see what it's doing.

[Five Star 0]

You haven't done the big 3 yet?? Chuck some 0ga in and see what you get then. Don't bother buying anything else until you do that.

[JasonL 0]

Another option is the Kinetic batteries that Dave in Wellington sells. [email protected]

I'm running a 1000d, a 150x2 and a 40x4 off a 140a alternator and big battery (just a din 92 or din95 can't remember which) and have no problems. Not expecting too many problems with the near-future amplifier upgrade either.

Your battery should sit around 11-12v with car and stereo off, and at 14.xx with engine running and stereo off. Might pay to have your alternator looked at just to see what it's doing.

I am running 3 times more rms than you. Whats a place to get my alternator looked at. I had to buy a new battery back on the 15 dec and it turn the car over within half a second now after a month its turning over slowly again.

The volts were higher on the headunit too but have dropped down again now.

Well be looking at doing the big 3 soon, 0 Guage wire is not cheap.

[kiwi535 538]

I am running 3 times more rms than you. Whats a place to get my alternator looked at. I had to buy a new battery back on the 15 dec and it turn the car over within half a second now after a month its turning over slowly again.

The volts were higher on the headunit too but have dropped down again now.

Well be looking at doing the big 3 soon, 0 Guage wire is not cheap.

any auto electrician can check your alternator output...he may even be able to suggest some alternator/battery upgrades. that will work.Ask PAge european for the auot electrician they use he should be familiar with our cars

edit i assume you are in wellington,cos somebody said something about wellington?

Edited January 15, 2009 by kiwi535

[Old_Skool_Bmw 0]

I was running close to 2500wrms in my system when I had it installed and I didn't have too many problems with the battery.

2 x 1000d eaudio and a 480d eaudio with dls speakers

I did install a 20farred competition cap which helped when the bass was really going..

I'd probably re-mount the battery and make sure the grounds are all clean. I went through and cleaned all the grounds, connections b4 I turned the system up, cheeper than having to fix a broken car (low volts)

You in welly?? Would be keen to check out your set-up sometime

Edit: i posted on your other topic b4 I saw this thread

Laurence

Edited January 17, 2009 by Old_Skool_Bmw

[rogan 7]

I am running 3 times more rms than you.

Yes you were.

Whats a place to get my alternator looked at.

If you're in Ak, I use Hope Hickman who are on Union St near the Northern mway on ramp.

Well be looking at doing the big 3 soon, 0 Guage wire is not cheap.

Try welding cable instead

[JasonL 0]

I was running close to 2500wrms in my system when I had it installed and I didn't have too many problems with the battery.

2 x 1000d eaudio and a 480d eaudio with dls speakers

I did install a 20farred competition cap which helped when the bass was really going..

I'd probably re-mount the battery and make sure the grounds are all clean. I went through and cleaned all the grounds, connections b4 I turned the system up, cheeper than having to fix a broken car (low volts)

You in welly?? Would be keen to check out your set-up sometime

Edit: i posted on your other topic b4 I saw this thread

Laurence

Na Im down in Dunedin.

Mean e-audio thats what I got too. Good amps.

Yeah I dont got a cap because they dont realy help that much. but will do the big 3 first then get a cap after.

[Five Star 0]

0ga is cheap compared to the amps etc you've got. It's worth adding it into the original budget.

Changing alt's doesn't happen too often, so hopefully you won't have to go down that route.

Upgrade your wiring and then test. I'd then upgrade the battery and go from there. I swear I've posted this before...

Oh, and why so many small speakers...? Have you got any termlab numbers?

[aliluya 0]

Got a pic of your car? I'm in dunedin too.

[rogan 7]

Wiring can be costly. You'll also need to factor in your distribution and fusing. Fusing is generally quite cheap for those inline ones but if you need a big fuse then you pay. I just paid nearly $20 for a single fuse.

Edited January 23, 2009 by rogan

[JasonL 0]

Got a pic of your car? I'm in dunedin too.

Yeap

http://img237.imageshack.us/my.php?image=macaroo9.png

[JasonL 0]

Wiring can be costly. You'll also need to factor in your distribution and fusing. Fusing is generally quite cheap for those inline ones but if you need a big fuse then you pay. I just paid nearly $20 for a single fuse.

$20 for a fuse sounds bout right. must be a 150-200amp one.

[pjay 8]

Nobodies said this yet... but i reckon try upgrade the ground at the battery. Try that first. If youre drawing lots of current from your bat/alt, you need upgraded grounds.

Simple rule of thumb is your ground cables should be equal to if not larger than your positives.

Ground with 0G. Do it. To the chassis. Do it.

Do your headlights dim when the bass hits?

[aliluya 0]

Yeap

http://img237.imageshack.us/my.php?image=macaroo9.png

I know the exactly which car it is ! I used to see if driven around alot !