Help please

[Drift6 0]

I had a problem with the ignition lock in my E36 323i but as it had jamed completely and could not be turned at all so the pin removal setup did not work so i removed the steering wheel and lock setup and took it to my locksmith

who drilled it and got the lock out only to find it was trash.

So i ordered one from bmw and due to several stuff ups on their behalf 11 weeks later i now have the correct lock barrel so i reassembled it and went to fit it but for the life of me i can not remember or figure out the order of the assembily

I have

1 alloy spacer, flat both sides.

The steering lock with intergral top bearing

1 spacer with a machined lip on the inside of one side and

1 spring circlip ring that goes into a groove on the colum

I have tried several different combitnations but none are right.

CAN SOMEONE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE POST UP EITHE PIC'S OF THE ORDER OR A DIAGRAM FROM A MANUAL ?

I realy need the car going for xmas and its been almost 12 weeks since i have driven it and im having bad withdrawl symptoms lol

[Silver Fox 43]

[*Glenn* 854]

That was the wrong page Dave... 2 pages to the right on ETK

The flat alloy spacer without the groove goes on first, then the circlip. The shaft is spring loaded, so you will need to pull the shaft up against the spring. The best way is to get someone to help you. Use the steering wheel bolt in the shaft through a ring spanner to give you something to pull on. Pull the shaft up, then slide the circlip into position. Then fit the grooved spacer over the circlip with the groove fitting over the circlip.

If you cant understand what I mean...give me a call

BTW... when the key first gave you the problem (spinning in the lock) it would have been an easy fix. We do them for $120

Edit: I hope you centralized the steering wheel before you pulled it apart with the steering wheel in the straight ahead position. If you have moved it, you run the risk of damaging the squib ring (clock spring) for the airbag.

If you havent moved the car or released the squib ring lock in the wheel you should be ok.

Edited December 22, 2008 by *Glenn*

[Drift6 0]

Ah dude, cheers. yea i centered it and i see the squib that locks the clock spring once the bolt is removed. I was looking at the alloy washer and saw a few scratches on it from where i thought i had the circlip pliers when removing it

When i put it on the circlip groove wasn't visable so i assumed i had it in the wrong place and tried another combo. i did try putting the bolt on and pulling the shaft but not with that much force will get it sorted at lunch now.

I paid less than that for the key as in in the trade, i only had one key so the new one was for a spare not because there was anything wrong with my other one, i haven't had the car that long and the first sign it was faulty was at 1 in the morning when i got home and removed key to find key in hand and car still running. the key would go back in but would not turn at all, hence no pin trick to remove it.

While im talking to ya what do you know about Jatco RE5 trans valve bodys ?

[*Glenn* 854]

Our locksmith still could have done that

What is the trans fault ? did you have it scanned ?

[Drift6 0]

You sir are the man ! cheers just got it going, i didn't realise the shaft was spring loaded lol

Yea i have scanned it no fault codes. It does a strange shift 3-4 and then in 4th if you put your foot down to pull out and overtake it goes to 5th, bogs down then fires it back to 3rd. im not certain what to do with it. i was going to service it, i have a new filter and pan gasket but i hadn't realy got around to it yet since its been no go for the last 3 months. wheres the level / fill bung ? since there's no dipstick.

Also the fuel sender stopped working randomly one night but someone told me its a common fault with the wiring on the top of the sender ???

[*Glenn* 854]

Yea i have scanned it no fault codes. It does a strange shift 3-4 and then in 4th if you put your foot down to pull out and overtake it goes to 5th, bogs down then fires it back to 3rd. im not certain what to do with it. i was going to service it, i have a new filter and pan gasket but i hadn't realy got around to it yet since its been no go for the last 3 months. wheres the level / fill bung ? since there's no dipstick.

Who scanned it and what tool did they use ?? It could be an engine fault ie: air mass sensor. The trans gets the load signal from the sensor. The filler and level tube are underneath the car. There is no dipstick

Also the fuel sender stopped working randomly one night but someone told me its a common fault with the wiring on the top of the sender ???

The sender unit is in the tank. The wiring on the sender unit will be broken. Solder new wire to both wires.

[Drift6 0]

It was a snap on one, but the electricians had it today to clear the Air bag light and they said it brought up nothing on there carmen scanner either.

Thankyou for the sender info , i will fit that tomorrow, off to the coast after xmas and knowing how much fuel i have is better that carrying a 20l of gas in the boot just in case lol

Thankyou for your help dude.

[*Glenn* 854]

I,m only a phone call away......always feel free to dial

[Drift6 0]

Sorted once i worked out the fuel sender was under the drivers side not the passangers