uchigatana 0 Report post Posted December 24, 2009 Alrighty... So this is the problem. I have a 1995 EWSII e36 320i(M50b20 engine) and just engine swaped to a 93 m50b25(From a 325i) non EWS engine. Now the engine's been swaped and everything set perfectly, But... the mechanic fried the dme as he did not ground a wire(Which I dont think I should have had to pay for the replacement...But I have)...But this is not the real problem(As I dont know if the DME is honestly screwed or if they just dont know for sure). The problem is, there is power to everything yet there is no spark....and the engine floods...and it cranks aswell if you turn the key but does not start. The mechanic got it running the first time he turned it on...But then after he turned it back off, it no longer started. Just floods and no spark every time. Now...I cannot blame anything on the engine like sensor's and pump and blah blah because I had it all replaced with new part's(And we know for a fact the engine works......). Mechanic think's it's a problem with the EWSII conflicting with the non EWS DME(Ecu)(which hasnt been replaced yet so they havent been able to rule out a fault with the DME but that will be ruled out once I put this replacement DME in, even thou the current DME is possibly working) The orginal wireing harness from the m50b25 is being used in conjunction with the old opposing side of the firewall wireing(aka dash cluster/OBD...all the same stuff from when the 320i was in there. ) Sooooooo....Thats my problem, And we are clueless elsewise....If someone has done a EWSII to Non EWS swap before that would be a tremendous help =) as a lead for information on this swap. Unless somone can tell from the information provided the problem or where I have gone wrong and what I would need to have replaced to finish this as I have been without a car for a month and it's looking like weeks more without my baby(I love my bmw far to much). So any information would be a help.... I have the VIN number if that helps and have DME serial and lable color if that will help any. Hope this is enough info=D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted December 24, 2009 (edited) A non EWS DME will not work in an EWSII car. Did the old engine have Vanos ? Does the car have ASC ? Is the car auto or manual ? Answer these 3 questions and if you can, give me the chassis # of your car and the chassis # of the car the donor engine has come out of. If the car is auto there maybe other conflicts. Remember its Xmas day... I may not get back to you with a reply till tomorrow Can you also PM me and tell me who is doing this for you ? Edited December 24, 2009 by *Glenn* Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
uchigatana 0 Report post Posted December 26, 2009 (edited) A non EWS DME will not work in an EWSII car. Did the old engine have Vanos ? Does the car have ASC ? Is the car auto or manual ? Answer these 3 questions and if you can, give me the chassis # of your car and the chassis # of the car the donor engine has come out of. If the car is auto there maybe other conflicts. Remember its Xmas day... I may not get back to you with a reply till tomorrow Can you also PM me and tell me who is doing this for you ? A non EWS DME will not work in an EWSII car. (I hope this is not the case...) Did the old engine have Vanos ? Yes same as the new one. Does the car have ASC ? No and the car it came out from did not aswell. Is the car auto or manual ? Auto same as car it came out from. BMW 320I 1995 (in Black) VIN: WBACB22020 FH03449 is what the origonal car was. Didnt get the car VIN it came from unfortunatly just year 1993, e36, and engine model m50b25 from a 325i. I can tell you only the engine/sensor's/dme/engine wireing harness have been changed, everything else is from the 320i. If you need any more info, I cant give it to you as the car is stuck in the garage untill the place re-open's. Off the top of your head what is different with the non ews car>? And would it be hard to switch the last of the wireing to non ews? if so I already am able to get anything needed, I just would no longer have a clue what is needed. Edited December 26, 2009 by VinceE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sp8s 1 Report post Posted December 26, 2009 (edited) Do a google for "m50 obd1 to obd11 chassis" edit: removed link. has second thoughts about posting link from another forum. Will let someone with a brain answer this Edited December 26, 2009 by sp8s Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
uchigatana 0 Report post Posted December 26, 2009 Do a google for "m50 obd1 to obd11 chassis" edit: removed link. has second thoughts about posting link from another forum. Will let someone with a brain answer this Cant wait to give cutting more wire's a try.......(Dread's the thought)...But if this works I luv ya. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted December 26, 2009 Cant wait to give cutting more wire's a try.......(Dread's the thought)...But if this works I luv ya. Cutting wires will not make this work First of all, you will need to check what gearbox you have in the car... ZF or Jatco You will need a B25 EWSII engine wiring loom, DME & Airmass sensor from a car that has the same type gearbox (exact part number) because the DME,EGS & ABS talk to each other and get their signals like RPM & load from the engine sensors. The DME can then be aligned to EWS with a suitable scanner or GT1. Adaptions & fault codes will also need to be cleared. There may be other differences with sensors and plugs, but I cant check that with out physicaly looking or having the chassis number of the other car to compare with. You could compare both yourself. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
uchigatana 0 Report post Posted December 26, 2009 Cutting wires will not make this work First of all, you will need to check what gearbox you have in the car... ZF or Jatco You will need a B25 EWSII engine wiring loom, DME & Airmass sensor from a car that has the same type gearbox (exact part number) because the DME,EGS & ABS talk to each other and get their signals like RPM & load from the engine sensors. The DME can then be aligned to EWS with a suitable scanner or GT1. Adaptions & fault codes will also need to be cleared. There may be other differences with sensors and plugs, but I cant check that with out physicaly looking or having the chassis number of the other car to compare with. You could compare both yourself. So I cannot just rip out the left over obd2 systems and replace them? that would seem like a cheaper fix. So I need to find a 325i ewsII car thats being dismantled....This is not going to be easy, Converting the rest of the system to obdI does not seem as hard. If there anything else you find out, that would be helpful thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
uchigatana 0 Report post Posted February 1, 2010 (edited) Well "I FOUND THE SOLUTION!" m50b20 with vanos -> m50b25 with vanos and pre 1995 without EWSII or OBD2 This solution will apply to any 6 cylinder -> 6 cylinder convert with the same model type eg .(M50) It was a very "Not so recommended solution" but it works. (And thats the most important thing.) I had the workshop switch the OBD1 non EWS engine wireing harness out and had them switch it over with the original 320i engine wireing harness lol. Of course this ment that all the sensor's from the 320i needed to be switched aswell and the 320i MAF sensor needed alittle "Modification" to match the relativly larger intake system that come with the new engine. AND IT WORKS LOL!. Perfectly fine. This was a cheaper solution in the short term.........And I desperatly needed my car back. But now when I get the time, I need a ECU re-map to suit the m50b25 instead of the m50b20 which I hope isnt to hard. And the fact I retained the 320i Exhaust system is not working in my favor which I found did not follow the lines of "Smaller exhaust = lower end power and less top speed" in actuality the 320i exhaust has given my car a dangerous take off!. I mean ...... I floooooor the accellorator and my car lagg's.....LOL...a N/A car that lag's lol. Anyway the car just wont move for 2-3 seconds then suddenly throws you back into your seat violently as it takes off. totaly weird. I also get a weird "POP!" noise just before the lag dissapear's, which sounds like it originate's under the pedal....But I guess that is actualy the in-appropriate exhaust system. So I hope this thread helps someone Edited February 1, 2010 by VinceE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites