nath 134 Report post Posted May 14, 2010 Bump, anyone? I unplugged the TPS and it idled better within a normal range 750rpm, does that show my TPS is buggered? Cheers From a diagnostic point of view, this shows that the TPS is indeed the, ore one of the things causing your car to bad idle. It's an easy thing to adjust. Perhaps first remove it and test it with a multimeter so you dont have to split it apart(instructions all over the net i think). If it tests ok, with it mounted but loose adjust the throttle butterfly to a nice idle. Then tighten the TPS screws so that it is at its lowest point. You should hear a TINY click immediately when you move the throttle butterfly open. If it doesnt test OK use the other one, or perhaps open it up, clean it up, and re- glue it back together. The TPS is just one part of the idle circuit though, so it may be functioning correctly and triggering some other faulty part? Idle problems on my Alpina turned out to be a fried connection in the ECU(common apparently) which I had fixed by a TV repairman, and a shagged coolant temp sensor both at the same time- making it very hard to diagnose. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted May 15, 2010 Cheers Nath and Andrew. I will try adjusting the TPS and go from there. I did have vacume leak once on that hose from the FPR to the intake manifold, I replaced it but maybe it needs to be sealed with silocone sealant. In thinking about the ECU, I wonder if the electrical fire, caused by ignition wires shorting out on the ECU, caused the circuitry inside to be damaged also...hmm. Will have a play and see if any progress can be made. Cheers for the help guys! Must be time for a M54, these M20's are sh*t. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted May 15, 2010 (edited) So took my TPS off, it was full of oil the motor is so tired and worn, there is oil residue all through the throttle body, but I just need it to last another 6 - 10 months and then I can worry about a conversion. So have soaked the TPS in petrol, electrical cleaner and a air compressor, cleaned the AFM track with electrical cleaner and a air compressor. Checked for leaks around the FPR and resealed hoses etc. Now to just re-install and see if I have fixed it after re-adjusting the TPS in accordance with the throttle stay. Hope this works Edited May 15, 2010 by Hellpina Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted May 15, 2010 Well it is fixed. Sitting at 600rpm (warm) it is far smoother than it was, fixed a massive airleak on the FPR -> Intake Mani in the process, no more hunting or sounding like a rotary. Stoked. Time to do a skid. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
