Which speakers and subs (E30)

[Guest E302.7T]

I'm trying to decide really if I should go for a Sony setup (Sony components, 6x9 and 2 1300w 12'' Subs + 12oow 2 channel amp and 600w 4 channel amp)

OR

Fusion Setup [Power](Fusion components, 6x9 , monoblock 1200w amp, 1500w sub and 4 channel 600w)

Please help as I have had Fusions before but they died they were encounter though and I wondered if the upscale model was better or to stick with Sony as I've never had a problem

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2136]

I run all Sony gear through out my car with the exception of my capacitor. Its not the best quality stuff, but imo the best bang for buck. people will probably disagree with me though. One sub is adequate in an E30, but i run two anyway so i can crank it up when i feel particularly obnoxious Can detail my setup if you like.

[Guest E302.7T]

I run all Sony gear through out my car with the exception of my capacitor. Its not the best quality stuff, but imo the best bang for buck. people will probably disagree with me though. One sub is adequate in an E30, but i run two anyway so i can crank it up when i feel particularly obnoxious Can detail my setup if you like.

Details please btw sick beemer haha :L

I know the sub runs hard I've had it connected to my dads home theatre ever since I blew his one up and never had a problem the question is can I run (on a sony headunit) over 20 and not blow anything ?

[antil33t 90]

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?showtopic=3202

Read this.

I have 6.5" Alpine components(front), 6.5" Alpine coaxials(rear) Hooked upto a 2channel amp (haha no fading for me ) seems to work fine, no subs as of yet cos I'm poor.

Oh and I'd probably trawl trademe for some cheap deals, second hand Alpine TypeS/R/X or something decent quality in the front.

Some 6.5" coax in the rear,

Hook the fronts at least upto an amp.... and get a 12" sub + amp of some description.

[[email protected] 0]

I wouldn't even consider touching Sony or Fusion gear.

But if your wanting to pay little then they will do the job.

As they say, you pay for what you get.

[Guest E302.7T]

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?showtopic=3202

Read this.

I have 6.5" Alpine components(front), 6.5" Alpine coaxials(rear) Hooked upto a 2channel amp (haha no fading for me ) seems to work fine, no subs as of yet cos I'm poor.

Oh and I'd probably trawl trademe for some cheap deals, second hand Alpine TypeS/R/X or something decent quality in the front.

Some 6.5" coax in the rear,

Hook the fronts at least upto an amp.... and get a 12" sub + amp of some description.

I wanted either soundstream alpine or kicker then one day i decided I'm too poor lol

but that would sounds real nice and crisp good luck with that though have a look at that audio website with the robot nz car audio they have resonably cheap deals or norman ross?

[Guest E302.7T]

I wouldn't even consider touching Sony or Fusion gear.

But if your wanting to pay little then they will do the job.

As they say, you pay for what you get.

Yeah I know but I'm a student I'm poor but fusion isn't too bad quality for the price

[[email protected] 0]

Yeah I know but I'm a student I'm poor

Fair call in that case!

[drifty325i 0]

Go talk to James or the boss Che from Norman Ross in CHCH, tell him Riley sent you and he will hook you up.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2136]

Details please btw sick beemer haha :L

I know the sub runs hard I've had it connected to my dads home theatre ever since I blew his one up and never had a problem the question is can I run (on a sony headunit) over 20 and not blow anything ?

Cant remember model numbers, but its the generation before their newest range of stock. Sony Headunit CD/Aux etc, 6.5" 160W (ish) fronts running straight off the headunit. rear signal goes to a 350W 2ch amplifier and then to the 320W 6x9s on custom spacers on the back parcel shelf*. Then i have 2x rear facing 12" 1000W subs each with thier own 800W amplifier, in repco boxes for now untill i can be bothered investing in something better. All wiring is gold laced (yes damn expencive, was brought at this point so i didnt have to relay wires when i get some better quality speakers etc), the main power cables are all 0 gauge iirc.. Power goes fromm the battery through a fuse (forget the value) and then to a 5Farad Tsunami Capactior, and then 4Ga to the amplifiers. Cap and all amplifiers are earthed in the same place. ideally the headunit would also be earthed in the same place too to prevent distortion/feedback but i didnt do that. Oh the subs are individually swtiched too (using the REM output on the headunit) so i can switch off one or other or both of the subs to help conserve battery power when idling in traffic or parked up. Also installed an aftermarket voltmeter to keep an eye on everything.

Its a great setup. the biggest restriction in the system is the recordings on my ipod. they become crappy at around the 30 mark on the stereo, but CDs will play pretty loud.. i dont play my music exessively loud, and havent experienced distortion on it at levels you would comfortably listen too. Also tune your amp for the subs and/or speakers. play around with the settings on them untill you are listening to stuff the way you want to!

*when fitting 6x9s you must use spacers. DO NOT cut into the metal underneath the parcel shelf. this is structural, a WOF fail, and virtually irreparable. its part of the shell of the car too so its not like you can unbolt it and put something else in

[pureboiracer 0]

i wouldnt touch either of those brands too... and i would never combine 6x9s with a sub.. they clash really bad...

imo i would get some good front components, ie jbl, pheonix gold, eclipse etc etc..

some powerfull 6" rears and a good sub, ie dual voice coil. (my one is a jbl from memory... its ok.. not good not bad.)

then spend the best part of your money on head unit and 2 amps. if you stinge on these your system will never sound good. no matter what speakers you get.

get a 4ch for the speakers.. keep your rear speakers for mid range only.

and one 2ch for the sub... eclipse do a good amp. and so do panasonic. but you want to make sure that the amp works well with the chosen sub.

and dont run 2 subs.. they dont make it any louder, they just clash with eachother.. if you cant get enough out of one sub then your setup is wrong.

brands like jbl, eclipse, alpine, pheonix gold, panasonic are a little more expensive than sony and fusion but the quality difference is like another world

Edited June 21, 2010 by DRTE30

[rogan 8]

What's your budget?

For $220 you can get an 8 month old Image Dynamics IDQ12 v3 dual 2ohm sub in a sealed enclosure from a guy in CHCH. Those subs retail for $650 and will seriously outperform what you're currently looking at in both SPL and SQ. It would need an amp that will do between 500 and 800rms to do the sub justice.

(Note Sony rate their stuff in max watts which is misleading. Their 1300w subs equate to about 350rms)

Don't bother replacing rears, with good fronts and a sub you just use the rears for ambience and the factory speakers will suffice.

Don't buy a capacitor, complete waste of money. A decent battery will supply more than enough power.

In all honesty the Sony Xplode gear is pretty rubbish. It's reasonable bang for buck but if you hunt around you can do way better. Fusion's has gone downhill a bit too but some of their older amps are good (Jonah Lomu, FP series).

[Guest E302.7T]

Fair call in that case!

Lol otherwise it would be the ones I mentioned above

[Guest E302.7T]

Go talk to James or the boss Che from Norman Ross in CHCH, tell him Riley sent you and he will hook you up.

Is james the guy who is in the car audio section by any chance? lol

sweet

[Guest E302.7T]

Cant remember model numbers, but its the generation before their newest range of stock. Sony Headunit CD/Aux etc, 6.5" 160W (ish) fronts running straight off the headunit. rear signal goes to a 350W 2ch amplifier and then to the 320W 6x9s on custom spacers on the back parcel shelf*. Then i have 2x rear facing 12" 1000W subs each with thier own 800W amplifier, in repco boxes for now untill i can be bothered investing in something better. All wiring is gold laced (yes damn expencive, was brought at this point so i didnt have to relay wires when i get some better quality speakers etc), the main power cables are all 0 gauge iirc.. Power goes fromm the battery through a fuse (forget the value) and then to a 5Farad Tsunami Capactior, and then 4Ga to the amplifiers. Cap and all amplifiers are earthed in the same place. ideally the headunit would also be earthed in the same place too to prevent distortion/feedback but i didnt do that. Oh the subs are individually swtiched too (using the REM output on the headunit) so i can switch off one or other or both of the subs to help conserve battery power when idling in traffic or parked up. Also installed an aftermarket voltmeter to keep an eye on everything.

Its a great setup. the biggest restriction in the system is the recordings on my ipod. they become crappy at around the 30 mark on the stereo, but CDs will play pretty loud.. i dont play my music exessively loud, and havent experienced distortion on it at levels you would comfortably listen too. Also tune your amp for the subs and/or speakers. play around with the settings on them untill you are listening to stuff the way you want to!

*when fitting 6x9s you must use spacers. DO NOT cut into the metal underneath the parcel shelf. this is structural, a WOF fail, and virtually irreparable. its part of the shell of the car too so its not like you can unbolt it and put something else in

^^ Farrr lots of reading lol but with good detail so your set up is the one with the 1000w subs black glossy paint?

and is the capacitor. Thats sweet then so I should be quite happy with the setup I plan to buy only difference is the fronts im running components and rear subs are two 1300w. At the moment they have spacers from some shitty brand I think boschmann aftermarket ones :S so I'll just use them thanks for the headsup though.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2136]

^^ Farrr lots of reading lol but with good detail so your set up is the one with the 1000w subs black glossy paint?

and is the capacitor. Thats sweet then so I should be quite happy with the setup I plan to buy only difference is the fronts im running components and rear subs are two 1300w. At the moment they have spacers from some shitty brand I think boschmann aftermarket ones :S so I'll just use them thanks for the headsup though.

yeah i tend to get a bit carried away with it. its probably my favourite part about the car thus far. We shall see if that changes once the engines running ha.

People have mixed feelings when it comes to caps. I have a decent battery, and it still pulsed the lights when the bass hit and i had it cranked up. the cap got rid of that. at the end of the day, whether it makes a noticable difference or not, there is no question about the fact that it takes strain off not just the battery, but helps protects all the cars electrical system from power suply pulsing, something the various ECUs dont like. thats reason enough to buy one in my book.

your 1300W subs are likely to be the same or worse than my 1000W ones with the amp you plan to run, as you are running them off a smaller amp than me, and also because yours have a higher max power rating they are likely to be less efficient. id be happy with your setup as a starter point though

[Guest E302.7T]

yeah i tend to get a bit carried away with it. its probably my favourite part about the car thus far. We shall see if that changes once the engines running ha.

People have mixed feelings when it comes to caps. I have a decent battery, and it still pulsed the lights when the bass hit and i had it cranked up. the cap got rid of that. at the end of the day, whether it makes a noticable difference or not, there is no question about the fact that it takes strain off not just the battery, but helps protects all the cars electrical system from power suply pulsing, something the various ECUs dont like. thats reason enough to buy one in my book.

your 1300W subs are likely to be the same or worse than my 1000W ones with the amp you plan to run, as you are running them off a smaller amp than me, and also because yours have a higher max power rating they are likely to be less efficient. id be happy with your setup as a starter point though

yeah but its good in detail though

Yeah my mate said they were better but I couldn't tell any "physical" sound difference but if it keeps it from frying I'll buy one with 3 farads lol

I might run 2 1100w mono's but all depends on money lol

[drifty325i 0]

Yes James is the audio Geek in Norman Ross car audio section

[cliffdunedin 8]

Flag the subs and spend your coin on a decent amp and front speaker/tweeter setup, if you like bass get some Kevlar Pioneer speakers for the rear...heaps f bass,awesome sound and damn near indestructable

Or if you want a doof doof system go for Fusion IMHO Sony xplod is weak.

[Guest E302.7T]

Yes James is the audio Geek in Norman Ross car audio section

cheers man

[Guest E302.7T]

Flag the subs and spend your coin on a decent amp and front speaker/tweeter setup, if you like bass get some Kevlar Pioneer speakers for the rear...heaps f bass,awesome sound and damn near indestructable

Or if you want a doof doof system go for Fusion IMHO Sony xplod is weak.

I've always liked fusion I just wanted a change to see the diff lol thanks

[rogan 8]

What's your budget and what stereo parts do you already own?

[Guest E302.7T]

What's your budget and what stereo parts do you already own?

budget say maybe 1000-1200 and none part from crappy components, 6x9 and headunit

[rogan 8]

Should be able to do something decent with that budget. What headunit is it (make and model).

What sources do you need ipod / iphone / mp3 etc and is BT a must have?

What are you wanting from the system, as much bass as possible or sound quality or something street that sounds good put can put down a big bass line if required?

Also what type of music do you listen to?

Edited June 25, 2010 by rogan