jimbo01 0 Report post Posted August 1, 2010 I have been following the E38.org instructions to remove my rear seat. I have all the bolts out, and they say remove the rear headrests 1st. Trouble is they wont come out. They are electrically adjustable and they just won't budge. I've put them fully up, and tried to rmeove the seat back but the headrest stays fixed so it seems like the electically adjustment unit is mounted to the wall behind the seat back. I've removed the trim from the seat back inside the boot and there is no visible bolts to remove. So I'm stuck. Help please! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1rotty 40 Report post Posted August 1, 2010 Yes it is mounted to the wall. From memory Im sure the rests DO pull out but you have to jiggle & pull while taking deep breaths. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allan 295 Report post Posted August 1, 2010 If like the e39 rear's, extend the head rest fully grasp the chrome rods and pull upward at the same time apply either inward or outward pressure on the rods. This worked for me although mine are not electrical just a thought. Cheers Allan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimbo01 0 Report post Posted August 2, 2010 If like the e39 rear's, extend the head rest fully grasp the chrome rods and pull upward at the same time apply either inward or outward pressure on the rods. This worked for me although mine are not electrical just a thought. Cheers Allan Thanks - both rear headrests are now out - it needed a powerful upward jerk then they came out fine. The headrest adjustment motors are mounted on on the metal panel behind the seats. So tomorrow night I'll get the rest of the dis-assembly done ready for installing the GPS, the electric rear blind, and sorting out the subs. These will probably be 2 x 6.5 inch, or maybe 8" subs mounted on the rear parcel deck using the boot as an enclosure. I've bought 2 Pioneer PRS-D4200F 4 channel amps from Hyper, one will power the exisitng door speakers running on a high pass filter, the other will run 2 subs mounted in the rear deck bridged to give 300 watts RMS per sub. Each amp will mount perfectly either side of the ski port, up high out of the way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allan 295 Report post Posted August 3, 2010 Just a note be careful with the electric sun blind the plastic slid bush's that connect to the arms brake very easily. Cheers Allan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimbo01 0 Report post Posted August 3, 2010 Just a note be careful with the electric sun blind the plastic slid bush's that connect to the arms brake very easily. Cheers Allan Rear blind and subs on hold as we were robbed last nite. They took 4 tyres, 2 wheels (recovered) and my sons Scott mountain bike. Insurance only pays market value on bike - ouch! Also scratched the BMW. Bastards 1/2 unscrewed our security lights so they could wortk in the dark like the rats they are! Pioneers amps were dispatched from Hyper today so I will have to complete my project one days. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimbo01 0 Report post Posted August 9, 2010 Rear blind and subs on hold as we were robbed last nite. They took 4 tyres, 2 wheels (recovered) and my sons Scott mountain bike. Insurance only pays market value on bike - ouch! Also scratched the BMW. Bastards 1/2 unscrewed our security lights so they could wortk in the dark like the rats they are! Pioneers amps were dispatched from Hyper today so I will have to complete my project one days. Insurance is paying on the bike so the rear blind and associated trim is on it's way, and I'm trying to buy the standard rear sub enclosure and trim from another supplier. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
