mikep 0 Report post Posted December 3, 2010 could sum one tell me how tight u do them to have new studs Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matty104 0 Report post Posted December 3, 2010 Step 1 : 30nm then leave for 20min Step 2: Tighten 90 degrees Step 3: warm engine to operating temp then tighten another 90 degrees Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brad91 0 Report post Posted December 3, 2010 That sounds like a lot of work lol. So you cant torque down the head with it out of the car? Im assuming that you should be able to get the the head bolts with the cams still in? And is this the same on a b20? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted December 4, 2010 (edited) Step 1 : 30nm then leave for 20min Step 2: Tighten 90 degrees Step 3: warm engine to operating temp then tighten another 90 degrees Thats not quite right Matt...it's : Step 1 : 30nm Step 2: Tighten 90 degrees Step 3: Then another 90 degrees And you must use new head bolts as well as new gaskets Edited December 4, 2010 by *Glenn* Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brad91 0 Report post Posted December 4, 2010 Was gona say that sounds like a pain lol. Put motor together, run motor, pull motor apart, tighten, put motor together :S I would have thought it would just be a specific torque setting though? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matty104 0 Report post Posted December 4, 2010 ahhh my mistake Glenn, got mixed up between hex bolts and torx, Hex was 40nm 60nm after 15-20min 25nm after 25min of running and torx was how Glenn said Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
No name user 379 Report post Posted December 4, 2010 the m20's ive done i used m10x1.5 100mm long capscrews works a treat and far better than stock, pull them down to 65 ft/lb Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites