buying a BMW what to look for etc

[Rip_it_up 0]

hey guys, im new to these forums

im looking at buying this beamer in hamilton, its a 318i, i dont know to much about beamers, will be the first beamer ive had, i was wondering if anyone could tell me what sort of things to look for when checking over this beamer before i buy it, is there any common manufactoring faults i should look for?, generally how long do the motors last for? (this ones done 180,000ks), im plannin on getting a comperssion test done before i buy it, what compression is a good level etc?, any other things i can check before i buy it?

thanks heaps guys

Edited July 13, 2005 by Rip_it_up

[Dnz 0]

Hey, welcome.

This might be good for you: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/buying/e3...yers_guide.html

Oh yeah, and kids, dont do chrome.

Good luck!

[petone 0]

what year/model? early E36's supposedly had a few problems with them that you should be wary of.

BTW E30 is 3 series from 1983 - 1991 and E36 is 3 series from 1991 to 98/99?

[m325i 709]

If you aren't prepared to spend $ on one, get a Toyota Coralla.

If you get a good one, you will love it. But remember you are buying an old car. There has been many a victum of the e30 burn on this forum. Oh and the (early) e36 burn is potentially way worse.

[Guest Andrew]

my advice would be don't buy it -

it depends on what you're buying it for though.

[my_e36 43]

don't know much about e30 myself, but with e36, post-95 is quite reliable. Not saying they are fault-free or any pre-95s are cr*p, but most of the major problem pretty much get ironed out from that time.

(DME flooding for 1)

[BMW POWER 2]

Oh and the (early) e36 burn is potentially way worse.

Yep pre 95 E36 are known for burns.

If its a Jap import E36, watch out. Their smog/conditions block up some things, eg air conditioning.

Just use your common sense. Most things that apply with normal cars apply with BMW's. Just take extra care of them.

[Rip_it_up 0]

Hey, welcome.

This might be good for you: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/buying/e3...yers_guide.html

Oh yeah, and kids, dont do chrome.

Good luck!

cheers for that link, but there isnt anything on the e36 shape which is the beamer im looking at buying,

yer its a black 1991 e36 shape beamer, can anyone shed some light on what to look out for on this model, any known manufactoring issues? why do u guys say that model is full of problems? can u shed some light

[Rip_it_up 0]

what year/model? early E36's supposedly had a few problems with them that you should be wary of.

BTW E30 is 3 series from 1983 - 1991 and E36 is 3 series from 1991 to 98/99?

what sort of problems are these that you talk of, so i can check them out if im gonna buy the car cheers dude

[Dnz 0]

Most of them are listed in my link, and the FAQ section of the forum here..

http://bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/e36/f...=4438155&page=1

Either way, common issues..

Waterpump

Radiator Neck

Thermostat

Shock Mounts

Vanos Rattle (normal)

E36's main thing to think about would have to be 'Anything to do with coolant'.

Also try other sites for info, using the search function. Bimmerforums.com is rather good too.

Basically just get anything you buy checked out by someone that knows BMW's as all e36's have the same problems (reliability in problems is kinda weird).

Edited July 14, 2005 by Dnz

[Dnz 0]

Oh yeah, speaking of 180k km's...

Got any pics and info on how much youre paying? Most wear and tear items should get a look over by now, as they should have been replaced or will need replacement soon - Shock mounts, ball joints, shocks. If its an Auto tranny, it may be nearing the end of its life. Also check subframe to make sure everything is cool with the body.

Whatever you do, dont rush it. Have a look around autopoint.co.nz to get a feel for prices..

[Rip_it_up 0]

ok cheers for that man, its a black 1991, e36 shape, hes asking $5500 for it, 180,000ks, auto, 18" cromies..(yeah i know cromes for the bathroom)not sure about it though, body is pretty rough, needs new tyres etc its in hamilton and im in auckland so is a bit of a drive it turns out to be crap, im gonna go have a look around yet i read that FAQ on here, some interesting stuff, cheers for that

[petone 0]

I'd say stay away aswell, body condition is a good indication of how its been treated. Also those 18's aren't going to be cheap.

[EuroBoy 0]

If its a pre 95 e36, and its your first BMW, stay away. Will more than likely be more trouble than its worth.

have a look around, the buy of a lifetime comes by every week

or even get an e30, sex on wheels.

[Guest Andrew]

don't know much about e30 myself, but with e36, post-95 is quite reliable. Not saying they are fault-free or any pre-95s are cr*p, but most of the major problem pretty much get ironed out from that time.

(DME flooding for 1)

quite possibly the most bullshit thing to say -

perhaps PRE 93.

E36 are quite reliable. Jap imports are quite reliable.

There is nothing wrong with them.

Don't buy a raped 91 e36 318 on chromes - its the slowest BMW you can buy really.

[Napier_E36 0]

Don't buy a raped 91 e36 318 on chromes - its the slowest BMW you can buy really.

hang on! How bout an E36 316 on Chromies? Thats gotta be a bit slower!

I think your spot on otherwise Andrew. Also, it doesnt really matter what year it is, if its had a hard life up until now, then it is going to have problems in the near future. But that goes with any car really...

[Dnz 0]

Ideally you want a car from the following..

An enthusiast who has modded the car but looked after it/babied it

A Nana driver.

18 inch chromes send a message that the driver is a) ghetto and thinks wheels are more important than anything.

Its bound to be thrashed in all its 1.8 litre glory.. Keep looking. It be better to get something stock, rather than pay extra for chrome, and then have the price reduced due to high km's and a tranny near death.

[BMW POWER 2]

Most of them are listed in my link, and the FAQ section of the forum here..

http://bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/e36/f...=4438155&page=1

Either way, common issues..

Waterpump

Radiator Neck

Thermostat

Shock Mounts

Vanos Rattle (normal)

E36's main thing to think about would have to be 'Anything to do with coolant'.

Also try other sites for info, using the search function. Bimmerforums.com is rather good too.

Basically just get anything you buy checked out by someone that knows BMW's as all e36's have the same problems (reliability in problems is kinda weird).

Also cold start pulley, air conditioning blocked up with crap.

That should all be rectified by now, since it have 180,00km

[*sic 1]

i advise to get a honda.

say no to the boats.

[bmwsparkle 3]

na i reckn a mitsubishi sigma, preferbly a 1982 brown "grand touring"...

[kiwi535 538]

the most important things that have been said

1) overall condition is absolutely indicative of how its been treated in the past.

2)Make sure that you get any BMW checked by someone who knows what they are looking at.

You have to decide what is important to you,but take your time and drive as many cars as you can before you plonk down your cash....but i dont think any of us would deny that BMWs cost more to keep than hondas and toyotas......

[Rip_it_up 0]

the most important things that have been said

1) overall condition is absolutely indicative of how its been treated in the past.

2)Make sure that you get any BMW checked by someone who knows what they are looking at.

You have to decide what is important to you,but take your time and drive as many cars as you can before you plonk down your cash....but i dont think any of us would deny that BMWs cost more to keep than hondas and toyotas......

yer i know what you mean bmws will be expensive ive just sold my mazda familia GTX that cost me a fukin fortune to keep running thanks for your help guys, im still gonna have a look at a few other bmw's before i settle on this one, with saying that, im looking for a 4 door sedan bmw price range 5-8k wanting 90' + model, if anyone knows of any in the auckland area preferably, can you let me know would be much appreciated, cheers

[Napier_E36 0]

but i dont think any of us would deny that BMWs cost more to keep than hondas and toyotas......

That all depends on what goes wrong with them! I have been pleasantly surprised several times when I have bought parts for my car - like my ball joint - I rang around various places in Hamilton (when I was at work) and the stealer was cheaper than everywhere else (including all the "specialist" wreckers in the area)

Heres an interesting little comparison I have found since I have had my 325...

Before I got my bimmer, I had a 95 Pulsar GTi. I had to replace my front discs and pads just before I decided to trade up. 2 front discs and a set of brake pads were $700 (part only) I did the front discs and pads in my 325 approx 6 months after I got it, and I was amazed when the total bill was only just under $500 - thats 2 discs, and new pads - fitted.

Also, if you call the stealer and get a price on something like a tail light or something (brand new, genuine parts) for a bmw and then do the same for another make (like a nissan or a toyota), the bmw stealer is usually cheaper. Im not sure why, but for some reason Toyota/Nissan/other major Japanese car makers always seem to charge the earth for genuine parts.

Having said all that, I suppose that only makes a difference if you only use brand new, genuine parts. But routine servicing/maintenance shouldt be costing any more than any other make of car - and keeping the maintenance up to scratch (preventative maintenance) often eliminates the need for costly repairs...

[Napier_E36 0]

yer i know what you mean bmws will be expensive ive just sold my mazda familia GTX that cost me a fukin fortune to keep running

But GTX's are renouned for being expensive to keep/maintain!

How many gear boxes did you go thru in the end?

[petone 0]

That all depends on what goes wrong with them! I have been pleasantly surprised several times when I have bought parts for my car - like my ball joint - I rang around various places in Hamilton (when I was at work) and the stealer was cheaper than everywhere else (including all the "specialist" wreckers in the area)

Heres an interesting little comparison I have found since I have had my 325...

Before I got my bimmer, I had a 95 Pulsar GTi. I had to replace my front discs and pads just before I decided to trade up. 2 front discs and a set of brake pads were $700 (part only) I did the front discs and pads in my 325 approx 6 months after I got it, and I was amazed when the total bill was only just under $500 - thats 2 discs, and new pads - fitted.

Also, if you call the stealer and get a price on something like a tail light or something (brand new, genuine parts) for a bmw and then do the same for another make (like a nissan or a toyota), the bmw stealer is usually cheaper. Im not sure why, but for some reason Toyota/Nissan/other major Japanese car makers always seem to charge the earth for genuine parts.

Having said all that, I suppose that only makes a difference if you only use brand new, genuine parts. But routine servicing/maintenance shouldt be costing any more than any other make of car - and keeping the maintenance up to scratch (preventative maintenance) often eliminates the need for costly repairs...

Agreed. My car has cost me far less than my mates with jappas, (mostly vtec hondas actually) and while they are way faster than my car they also cost them lots more. eg one got charged $800 for some distributor bearing on his B16A! That said, a couple had sohc 1.5 carollas and civics for first cars that they raped everyday and nothing broke.

Seems that performance comes at the expense of reliability