328FTW 0 Report post Posted October 21, 2012 I haven't actually opened my motor yet but it's done a few k's and it's probably easiest if I pull it out so I can plastiguage things, check bores, measure this and that. I assume it drops out the bottom? Also it appears BMW uses the same system as many other manufacturers to select bearing size based on rod size, crank size, clearance etc. Is there a guide to selection? the factory manual seems kinda piss poor to be honest, the layout in the PDFs I've found is shocking. Also been plucking around for suppliers; am I correct in assuming Euro - Italian Car Parts is where I should be making my first stop for enquires? Hopefully it's not too shagged when I get it open but I want to have my sh*t straight for assessing if it's viable to actually fix. I've got all that neat stuff like micrometers and runout gauges, might as well use them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
328FTW 0 Report post Posted October 23, 2012 I pulled the top today, bores look ok, no big marks, can't really feel any lip. However the headgasket looks good, don't see any obvious cracks in the head. I'll see about crack testing then planing the head after I inspect the block for cracks. Is there anywhere specific I should look that's weak on the e30 325i motor? I'm unsure how else water would get in the oil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted October 23, 2012 The heads normally crack through the back under the camshaft and through the camshaft journals. The blocks crack between the bore and the studs or water jackets Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
328FTW 0 Report post Posted October 23, 2012 Alright I'll check those areas carefully. I was hoping to see an area of the headgasket with signs of failure. The fact that I don't see that makes me worry a bit. I hate dealing with cracked heads. Even though it was steaming like hell out the exhaust the pistons are all relitively dirty to. Makes me also wonder if the steam was in fact only noticed after it was overheated and was/is actually just the exhaust full of condensation from sitting. As a side note the intake valves are pretty hefty sized things. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted October 24, 2012 some exhaust sytems can hold alot of water but normaly in the rear box which wouldnt steam often how clean is the exhaust manifold?, any steam cleaning on the inside of any ports? i had a uv dye and led that lit it up, made the tiniest flaw look like a snapped rod though often you have to get the head planed to see the actual cracks andget rid of the surface tarnishing or if its clean give it a good polish with autosol and crack will pop up Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
328FTW 0 Report post Posted October 24, 2012 All the ports look kinda dirty, valves don't look pitted or burned. In fact everything looks really good. Just it had milky shitty oil and was overheating. Although I do know I replaced one engine hose with a new one after the old one had gone to sh*t which probably helped alot. One thing though is I dunno how cowboy the headgasket when it was last replaced was done. No machine marks from planing, a few rough sand marks from cleaning the gasket off, headbolts look like the same 300,000km ones that came out of it half rounded off. It may of been twisting/lifting and only showing up under load. It didn't fail long after that was done, head could be soft to so should probably do a hardness test. To machine it and do stem seals it really needs to come apart anyway so I can pull all the valves out, give it a hell clean and see around the seats and sh*t better. You can just feel the joy emanating from me, I just LOVE chasing non-obvious problems. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
328FTW 0 Report post Posted October 26, 2012 Dirty big crack between the exhaust seat and water gallery on no.3. Took me an age to find it to, I cleaned the sh*t out of that head. Pricing out M50 swaps and the like, however I'd rather not piss around and just an M20B25 longblock or head would suit me best right now. I found a lower km's shortblock for 2 hundy that would probably work out cheaper than doing anything with my engine, just part it out cheap. If anyone has a head (or cheap longblock) spare then feel free to PM me a price. I'm also fine with pulling the head off a partout motor myself if the price is right and you don't mind some random guy at your place for a couple hours. I'll slap up a wanted ad and troll trademe for partouts tonight. Joy of joys. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
