smokenbaby 0 Report post Posted August 28, 2005 Just spent a lazy Sunday swapping out the drum rearend for an 89 Disk rear sourced from a wreaker. What a waste of a day. Everthing thing went to plan and only took a few hours to do but........ While road testing and bedding in the disks and pads the rear end was all over the place like a mad womans shite. Hit a bump and rear of car steered away from the bump. Rear is all twitchy as hell. Got back in the garage and had a look. Rear wheels were toeing in big time. Jacked up car and did some measuring only to find the NEW Subframe is bent. Rang the wreaker at home and he tells me the car it came out of was involve in a t-bone crash. Makes sence that the subframe is bent. Spending tonight swapping the old cross member back in so hopefully my wheel alignment should be back to normal and the rear will track in a straight line again. So when buying a disck brake rearend, make sure the crossmember is straight before swapping your old one out. Or you can do what I should have done and just swap out the trailing arms. Would have taken a fraction of the time and been sweet to drive. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Andrew Report post Posted August 29, 2005 when gus' subframe(s) have been going back in - its always been fairly easy to tell they were bent as they were a mofo to fit back in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted August 29, 2005 know how ya feel...suck balls pretty much all e30 subframes are the same, so no real point in changing em Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smokenbaby 0 Report post Posted August 29, 2005 Changed it back out last night. This time on the hoist. Took a grand total of 1hr30min from the first crank of a nut. That was handbrake cables, diff head, trailing arms, brake lines, subframe out. New subframe in and all the rest of the hardware. Bleed rear brakes, deglaze front pads and disks, bleed rear brakes, drop the oil and do a filter. Subframe feel back in this time. Should never have taken it out in the first place. Was going to do a stand-up kit for it but left the mounts at my old's. Will do it in a few weeks when I get the Jamax Super lows for it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
m325i 709 Report post Posted August 29, 2005 This time on the hoist. Took a grand total of 1hr30min respect :thumb: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Andrew Report post Posted August 30, 2005 Changed it back out last night. This time on the hoist. Took a grand total of 1hr30min from the first crank of a nut. That was handbrake cables, diff head, trailing arms, brake lines, subframe out. New subframe in and all the rest of the hardware. Bleed rear brakes, deglaze front pads and disks, bleed rear brakes, drop the oil and do a filter. Subframe feel back in this time. Should never have taken it out in the first place. Was going to do a stand-up kit for it but left the mounts at my old's. Will do it in a few weeks when I get the Jamax Super lows for it. Thats pretty impressive.I take it your problem is fixed? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smokenbaby 0 Report post Posted August 30, 2005 What I failed to mention was my friend Wayne (mechanic where we did it second time round) helped out. Just set a plan and did it. While we were unbolting the rear the oil was draining. While I was putting things back in Wayne was doing the front end. Yes it fixed the problem. With the stand-up kit in it will make it so much better as I can put slight toe in on the rear and a**hole all the camber. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
