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Guest Andrew

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Guest Andrew

Alright - i'm at crunch time for building my car.

Its going on Oct 3 for Roll cage, seats, harnesses + SS turbo manifold + all associated tubing.

My question is:

On you interior - what would you do to make it work better?

The cage is motorsport standard with the tubes running down the A pillar and though the front dash - tied to shock towers (or chassis rail) front and rear.

In terms of interior - i'll whip out carpet - but what have you guys done with the center console? And is there anything you wish you could have done but didn't.

This is for my car as a targa car.

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I'm sure you know, but if you plan on certing for road use and want a full cage, there are serious considerations for clearance from your head and padding or else you won't get a cert. If you don't have the a-pillar tubes it can be certed as a roll bar, but once you go the tubes it is a roll-cage and much harder to do.

But if only for targa and track then yyou're sweet either way.

It's doable, I'm just giving you a heads up if you didn't know.

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Guest Andrew

I'm sure you know, but if you plan on certing for road use and want a full cage, there are serious considerations for clearance from your head and padding or else you won't get a cert. If you don't have the a-pillar tubes it can be certed as a roll bar, but once you go the tubes it is a roll-cage and much harder to do.

But if only for targa and track then yyou're sweet either way.

It's doable, I'm just giving you a heads up if you didn't know.

Yeah thats sorted - will get road compliance.

Targa cars have to be road legal.

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it is a manz requirement to have padding on the cage where your head is within 300mm of tube. Most rollcages I have seen and had above me require padding as it is to close to my scone.

Interior wise, keep it simple. Centre console is a good idea as it covers the hand brake and sharp edges, plus makes the interior tidy. Keep the dash, but you may want to remove anything in it that is non-essential. If you want to run your car in classics on the track you should look at the class regs as I believe they require a full interior for compliance with the rules.

Attached is the dash area of my RX7 race car

post-5-1125968518.jpg

Edited by smokenbaby

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Guest Andrew

it is a manz requirement to have padding on the cage where your head is within 300mm of tube. Most rollcages I have seen and had above me require padding as it is to close to my scone.

Interior wise, keep it simple. Centre console is a good idea as it covers the hand brake and sharp edges, plus makes the interior tidy. Keep the dash, but you may want to remove anything in it that is non-essential. If you want to run your car in classics on the track you should look at the class regs as I believe they require a full interior for compliance with the rules.

Attached is the dash area of my RX7 race car

Amazing - that interior is perfect!

I'd really like to get a gear knob that brings the shift lever horizontal with the wheel.

The dash is staying - we are merely taking it out to get the cage in. I will keep the heater as well for de-misting purposes.

What is the process for certification of targa/race cars. I notice they go through a slighly different compliance than what a street car normally would. I'm assuming i'm going to need to re-certify the car anyway and then get the cage certed seperately.

I'm going for 2006 exp. harnesses and will get new ones in 2007 - the 2006 ones are new and cheapish and then I can decide on what I will do in the future.

Mark Herbert is building the cage + turbo manifold.

www.racecarfab.com

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What is the process for certification of targa/race cars. I notice they go through a slighly different compliance than what a street car normally would. I'm assuming i'm going to need to re-certify the car anyway and then get the cage certed seperately.

If it's going to be a targa car it will have to have a log book and authority card and therefore be homologated by MSNZ so the LVVTA cert process is not used. The MSNZ authority card will cover the cage, seats, harnesses, brake lines and plastic windows. The mechanical mods will need to be certified as normal.

Herberts will be able to help you with most of that, they'll need to do the paper work and things for the cage anyway. They have a pretty professional reputation.

As for what I'd do differently:

- Make it as light and simple as possible (but without skimping on cage design)

- Make sure the cage design allows easy access to the rear for putting helmets into a helmet holder

- Put the intercom in a easily accessed place so that you can turn it on easily, you don't want to be on the start line, belted in, with 30 seconds to go and you realise the intercom isn't on....and you can't reach it...

- Leave the clutch foot rest in...

- Make the underbody protection and exhaust so that it doesn't buzz and rattle forcing you to put earmuffs in the car for long touring stages....

Its the little details that you discover after its all done :rolleyes:

Edited by E34-535ti

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Guest Andrew

E34-535i: Thanks for the good advice - yeah it is the little things you dont' ever thing about until you realise it has been done wrong. I will take all of that into account. In terms of the cage it is very similar to what Dave posted just then. Cept with no gnarly knee bar to own myself on.

Dave: Yep - make me some Jordan gauges biatch.

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As for what I'd do differently:

- Make it as light and simple as possible (but without skimping on cage design)

ie. Chromoly, but try to justify $50/m Vs $10/m

- Make sure the cage design allows easy access to the rear for putting helmets into a helmet holder

bigger car next time

- Put the intercom in a easily accessed place so that you can turn it on easily, you don't want to be on the start line, belted in, with 30 seconds to go and you realise the intercom isn't on....and you can't reach it...

Yeah, thats a PITA, esp. when you trying to hold time cards, road books, pace notes and plug the intercom in!!

- Leave the clutch foot rest in...

the passenger one makes up for it thought :P

- Make the underbody protection and exhaust so that it doesn't buzz and rattle forcing you to put earmuffs in the car for long touring stages....

hmm, novel concept, next time maybe?

Its the little details that you discover after its all done :rolleyes:

And you all wonder why my car is off the road all the time...

From the Co-Drivers POV...

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Glenn could i sometime get you to post some rally pace notes up to me...may as well start learning what they look like! and answer your PM's bitch

andy....whats the final bill gonna be? :D seagull your sh*t

Edited by Gus

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hey gus you know how you have the euro plate on the front.., is it on the back as well or just the normal one? cos facelifts dont have room aye???

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Glenn could i sometime get you to post some rally pace notes up to me...may as well start learning what they look like! and answer your PM's bitch

andy....whats the final bill gonna be? :D seagull your sh*t

I'll scan some in for your Gus.

No un-replied PM's !?!?!

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- Leave the clutch foot rest in...

The foot rest is apart of the carpet so you will have to build one out of alliminum.

Also bend the brake pedal towards the clutch side as it is too close to race like that!

It all depens how orriginal you want the interior. For racing you dont need the handbrake suround as it just adds weight. You can see in the photo where the orriginal dash ends and then the rest starts, thats all you need, so pull every thing else out... but you will find it needs a support bracket. Again build it out of alliminum and atach it to the tunnel and the dash.

The E30 in the photo is all about looks. The guys used what looks like polished steel for his floor after going to all that trouble to use carbon??

Dont get me wrong, it looks great! B) , but its all about compramise.

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hey gus you know how you have the euro plate on the front.., is it on the back as well or just the normal one? cos facelifts dont have room aye???

It's just Jap imports that don't have the room. Change the black plastic panel between the tail lights for a Kiwi one and you can fit a Euro plate.

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or you can just lose the plate filler altogether, although a proper one looks better.

www.germanplates.com

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The foot rest is apart of the carpet so you will have to build

The E30 in the photo is all about looks. The guys used what looks like polished steel for his floor after going to all that trouble to use carbon??

Dont get me wrong, it looks great! B) , but its all about compramise.

Thats what i thought.. and have carpet....

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