My new E31, Breaks issue

[vincentfrandsen 2]

I just got my new E31, loving it but would love it if I could stop!!! kinda helpful.

I have done a little reading online about the issue and wanted to get some comments from you guys...

here's the story...

When I bought the car from Whangarei, I drove it back to Auckland, well most the way on the first day... the car had shocking tyres on it, warn to the max especially the front left, the car has very low km's only 116k, I was experiencing severe "shake" on the steering wheel and most of the car on the way home. i stopped at Kaiwaka and took it to Twinkle tyre and tow, ps, great guy, great service and really good pricing on tyres... (only from this experience). the car had 225-50-16 on it which were not the recommended tyres, i put on 4 new 225-55-16 tyres.

when we lifted the car up, the front left wheel was "binding" the breaks were not releasing, on further inspection the left pads were very worn, basically at their limit, he suggested we replace the pads and he would order them in overnight with the tyres... I was happy to do this as he stated it is likely to be the "master cylinder" but sometimes the "calliper stuck at the end of its travel"..., when he replaced the tyres the next day he opened the calliper and it moved freely, he decided not to replace the pads then and there as he did not want me to wear out the new pads... and gave me the opportunity to buy them or leave them, great option...

I set off from Kaiwaka and made it to Warkworth fairly well, no shudder or vibration ( i just did not brake...) coming into Warkworth all started heating up again and we had an issue with the shuddering again. (when hot)

to get to my "mates" house in kaukapakapa we water cooled the breaks (slowly) every 5km or so and the shuddering stopped... we did have alot of break wear. in Kaukapapa we decided to change the pads, this actually fixed the problem, kinda, well its drivable I did 200k's the next day on her and the breaks did not get hot, warm but not hot. I noticed occasionally a little "braking" sensation but pumped the breaks a bit and it went away. along with a bit of a whine for the first 100km's.

went for a wheel alignment on the north shore.

I got filled up yesterday afternoon at the garage and heard a funny noise, like a spray of water, on inspection in the dark their was a spray of "water" just under the the master cylinder area and was spraying the fire wall, i tried to find out where is was originating buy could not see it, I had not reception on my stuid 2 degrees mobile in Waitoki, and decided to drive on "slowly" i stopped every 2 min initially and checked fluid spraying out and nothing, only leaked out when engine was off and hot. stopped on the north shore after turning off the AC on the way and their was no leak at all, and she was hot... but there was way to much water for the AC, it was hot and spraying........ confused.

drove around some more no spraying on any stops and breaks still cool. (ac on)

had some dinner out on the north shore, came back to Avondale (only 8min on motorway) (ac on) and when i parked up the same water sprayed out....

engine temp was never affected perfectly in the middle and the water did not seem to be coming from the engine side, but it was near the bottom and really hard to see where it was from and from underneath without jacking up the car I could see nothing.

another note: power steering or steering has some play, oil is completely brown and dirty looking, on the todo list.

break performance is horrible, when you pump the breaks the pedal hits a "hard" spot and the "pumped" section is soft and has not "feedback" feeling. if you push harder you can actually press the pedal to the floor (really hard) after doing that the brakes work quiet well, just a little awkward to do just before you need to stop...

My thoughts are that it is the maser cylinder, is it worth repairing seals, or replacing the unit?

Any ideals about my funny yellow water, that evaporates over night (guessing that means not oil... ) would power steering or break fluid evaporate?

sorry for the long story, just wanted to give as much info as possible... am looking at taking it to Burgers motor works on Tuesday, they know there stuff, but wanted to know if you guys had any ideas.

I think I will stop driving her until I know what the issues are.

PS, BMW 850ia - 1991, 116k's, looks everything is original.

thanks

Vincent

[jeffbebe 1559]

Blimey, sounds like the previous owner hasn't replaced much and the car has reached 'that time' when things start to fail... Hence why they're selling as it gets expensive, particularly if you have to do a lot of it in one go.

If the shudder was gone after wheel alignment hopefully that's all it was (crap tyres!) but probably worth checking suspension parts. Hot spraying water is probably from the cooling system. Find out what it is and get it fixed urgently.

You're right to take it somewhere you can get a full diagnostic - scan the codes, etc. Then you'll know exactly what's in store for you. Beautiful cars... But potentially expensive.

[vincentfrandsen 2]

Blimey, sounds like the previous owner hasn't replaced much and the car has reached 'that time' when things start to fail... Hence why they're selling as it gets expensive, particularly if you have to do a lot of it in one go.

If the shudder was gone after wheel alignment hopefully that's all it was (crap tyres!) but probably worth checking suspension parts. Hot spraying water is probably from the cooling system. Find out what it is and get it fixed urgently.

You're right to take it somewhere you can get a full diagnostic - scan the codes, etc. Then you'll know exactly what's in store for you. Beautiful cars... But potentially expensive.

Hi, and thank you

Had a mate look at her yesterday, think we found the water prob, seems to be a pinhole in a hose that when engine stops and water pump stops circulating the pressure builds. Not 100% sure yet.

The shudder seemed have been only from the brake pads locking up. Its always been smooth as when they are cool. And since I changed the pads.

Master brake cylinder needs to be replaced or repaired and I think I will have a sweet ride.

Fully aware that this could be an expensive car...

[kiwi535 538]

Hi, and thank you

Had a mate look at her yesterday, think we found the water prob, seems to be a pinhole in a hose that when engine stops and water pump stops circulating the pressure builds. Not 100% sure yet.

The shudder seemed have been only from the brake pads locking up. Its always been smooth as when they are cool. And since I changed the pads.

Master brake cylinder needs to be replaced or repaired and I think I will have a sweet ride.

Fully aware that this could be an expensive car...

I think you need to take this car to someone whi is as familiar withthese cars as possible and get them to give a very careful going over.For the present i would say you better give the brake at least a complete flush out ,sounds like the calipers are partially seized,probably because the brake fluid hasnt been changed regularly.

[beemn 50]

I think you need to take this car to someone whi is as familiar withthese cars as possible and get them to give a very careful going over.For the present i would say you better give the brake at least a complete flush out ,sounds like the calipers are partially seized,probably because the brake fluid hasnt been changed regularly.

And maybe warped rotors from the brake being on consistantly

[April 2]

I recommend seeing Ross at BM Workshop in Botany, he has serviced my E31 and others on this forum, and done a great job.

[vincentfrandsen 2]

Hi all, thanks for your comments, well I think it is solved.... well it seems to work yay....

We shudder was from the breaks binding and getting extremely hot, luckily I always stops so the rotors are still good and not warped...

First the pads were replaced that obviously did not fix the problem.

Then the seals on the calipers were replaced, this improved slightly but still did not fix the problem

The fix was a small relief valve on the ABS.

She stops now and that's is kind of a relief.

So still to fix new annoying problem my temp gauge has come loose, so every time I stop the car the gauge jumps back to the cool position and moves anti clockwise a few degrees, so now it in red line when cold and straight down when warm. Very disconserting....

And up down seat motors they turn or you hear a noise but its like the teeth don't mesh...

And adjust passanger window slightly out of alignment.anyway an amazing car.

[kiwi535 538]

Hi all, thanks for your comments, well I think it is solved.... well it seems to work yay....

We shudder was from the breaks binding and getting extremely hot, luckily I always stops so the rotors are still good and not warped...

First the pads were replaced that obviously did not fix the problem.

Then the seals on the calipers were replaced, this improved slightly but still did not fix the problem

The fix was a small relief valve on the ABS.

She stops now and that's is kind of a relief.

So still to fix new annoying problem my temp gauge has come loose, so every time I stop the car the gauge jumps back to the cool position and moves anti clockwise a few degrees, so now it in red line when cold and straight down when warm. Very disconserting....

And up down seat motors they turn or you hear a noise but its like the teeth don't mesh...

And adjust passanger window slightly out of alignment.anyway an amazing car.

the seat thing is probaly the fact that the cable inner has pulled out of the fitting on the seat.Googlre bmw seat twist,or bmw seat fix and you will probably find something.I think you shorten the cable outer which allows the inner to now reach the fitting.