kiwi328i 118 Report post Posted January 19, 2014 Oh hey, that's nice to know, well it's nice to know someone who has done it, and that you think it's not worth doing, as opposed to thinking I need it pronto! I have already done the subframe bushings on mine, pita. I have done those and I was thinking, if I replaced the rtabs, with new ones it might get the toe closer on both sides, or not be so out whack closer. That's my guess, and then just leave it as is, well be happy with it anyway. Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1680 Report post Posted January 19, 2014 Bushes are always nice but trailing arms aren't likely to be perfect being an old car,. On this car went from -1mm rear toe on both sides running std springs to -2.5mm each side after lowering. Most of my lowered E34's had 16" or 17" rims on 225\235 tyres and with my driving style the tyres have always pretty even, thats without any swapping over. I do check my pressures often, find the right pressure for the give tyre and use quality tyres too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phil-540i 166 Report post Posted January 19, 2014 I think Jared is pointing out something that's often forgotten or over-looked - 'quality tyres at the right pressure'..........especially given how much cheap rubbish in terms of tyres is sold in NZ these-days...... Just because its black, holds air, & is mostly 'round' doesn't mean much.......... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiwi328i 118 Report post Posted February 5, 2014 My tyres are sweet. Pressures are always looked at. I would like to get as many miles out of them as possible hence the fascination with my suspension. I hope I don't have a bent trailing arm, subframe or anything major, I will just use my eye-chrometer when I get the rear of it up in the air I guess. I have rtabs and some bump steer correction plates coming from AKG and I hope that might get the rear specs closer anywho. Will let everyone know, when its all done. It will be interesting if I can get the left and right rear toe figures closer to each other. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiwi328i 118 Report post Posted April 10, 2014 It is now April and I just got my car back. Long story. I did do the rtabs, poly jobs from AKG Motorsport. I got the 1" bump steer plates for the front put in as well. Of course that was backed up by another wheel alignment. I am much happier with how the car drives now. Luckily for me, my hunch worked out for me. Doing the rear rtabs did go some way to correcting the discrepancy between the left and the right hand sides. So here is how it panned out for the rear. The front is much the same. total toe before: +2.90 total toe after: +4.00 Left toe before: +0.04 Right toe before: +2.50 Left toe after: +1.70 Right toe after: +2.30 Left camber before: -1.75 Right camber before: -2.00 Left camber after: -2.10 Right camber after: -2.15 I think this was a better way to go than go the whole pull the rear sub-frame weld in plates blah blah. And, I, well who cares, I am happy with the way the car drives now and that's the main thing. I thought I would say thanks to those who commented on the thread. I thought I better put down my findings as there is nothing worse following a thread and finding out "what happening", "did it work" Well it worked, well for me anyway. It aint race car perfect, but then I do not expect it to be. Cheers everyone. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1680 Report post Posted April 13, 2014 Good to hear. Those specs are pretty similar to mine and im also running 1" bump steer plates too. What front swaybar are you running? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiwi328i 118 Report post Posted April 22, 2014 I am running the standard front swaybar. I am running a pedders, I think 20mm rear swaybar, an adjustable one, which is the only one short of spending thousands on worth getting. I am happy with the way the front end turns in and the lack of body roll. I guess I could just keep going, but for a road car, I don't think I need to put in a meatier front sway. I have billies HD front and rear, HD strut mounts front and rear, poly rtabs, poly rear subframe bushes, spherical upper and lowers on the front, running 18's and its plenty stiff enough for me. In a lot of ways I miss my standard 525i which was much nicer over the crap roads we have, it was better 80% of the time tbf. There seems to be no limit to what you could spend on one of these things I am done with the suspension for now, and now I am going to put in a M60B40, which I will put up in the projects forum soon. Having said that...do you think maybe I should get a beefier front sway? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1680 Report post Posted April 22, 2014 You can get a M5 25mm one from Turnermotorsport for quite cheap. Are you running the Whiteline 20mm one?. The M5 25mm and 20mm bar set gives a good neutral balance for most situations. With big rear bar you are reducing rear roll but decreasing rear traction and adding oversteer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiwi328i 118 Report post Posted April 24, 2014 Crikey you are right, that is cheap. I did some quick calculations and that 25mm bar can get to my door under $300.00.NZD. Cheaper than the 20mm rear whiteline from Oz, that's for sure. Like everything else I guess, it's a matter of weighing up whether it is justifiable. But I have spent more money on less beneficial crap that's for sure. I would be very surprised if any local BMW Vendor could beat that price. I would buy one on the spot out of respect. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1680 Report post Posted April 24, 2014 Actually talking to a company now is Australia that do a E34 27mm adjustable bar for $250, just to need to see shipping costs going to be. If i can keep in under 400 it could be worth it. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1680 Report post Posted April 24, 2014 Also after going to back to stock strut mounts and not having the negative camber has made my steering response\feel(probably front grip also) decline significantly. May have to get some adjustable ones now the use the stock mounts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiwi535 538 Report post Posted April 24, 2014 (edited) Fwiw. I thought the msport set up was quite good it was a bit stiff side to side on uneven surfaces but otherwise the ride was good.It stayed pretty flat when cornering too Edited April 24, 2014 by kiwi535 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiwi328i 118 Report post Posted April 24, 2014 Hey Jared, Let us all know how the 27mm bar pans out. I would be interested if the price is right. Adjustable front strut mounts could be further down the track too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1680 Report post Posted April 24, 2014 True but you don't truly know whats its like until you test it yourself. Ive already got a 25mm front M5 swaybar so can compare it. I doubt there would be anything at the local dealers as the E34 is just too old now, no way they could beat overseas price anyway. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1680 Report post Posted April 24, 2014 Ive already got a front bar so no point in my calling. They pretty much only came on M5's which rare in NZ so the chances of finding out are next to zero, ive tried. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites