sierra9260 4 Report post Posted December 29, 2013 Hey Folks.Recently just bought a new engine for my e30 as I was sick of the old one. So now I can put on my manual kit I pieced together which has been sitting out of the car for a long time now and I am ever so excited to get it all in over the next few weeks. I have looked up a few resources on the interweb about things you need and should replace. I have spent quite a bit on this whole endeavor and I really only want to replace what is needed, to be frank.At the risk of sounding daft, where would a good place be to get a new pilot bearing and throw out/thrust bearing? Are they genuine BMW parts that are needed or quite interchangeable/available parts? Also when I bought my tranny etc it had a rubber seal type thing on the bell housing but it was more just a bit of broken rubber I have looked but can't find the answer. Will I need a seal for the bell housing or can it just bolt straight up?Also I was sold the kit by a real p*#$k and he didn't give me all the parts that was needed. I don't have the rubber bushing bracket the shifter arm sits in which looks like this http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/299307_x800.jpgIs there anything I can mock up to make this work or would it be best getting the original part because its seems near impossible to find one where I am. Lastly is it daft to put this clutch in that looks as if its going to slip at 5th gear or will it be fine to get a few miles from? I don't need it to last forever and won't mind replacing it after a year or so.http://postimg.org/image/tb57i2dht/thanks in return for the help guys Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2126 Report post Posted December 29, 2013 sounds like you need to get a clutch kit from Gavin at Euro-Italian (forum sponsor) or Paul at MillAnd has all the clutch related bits you need and also a new pressure plate and also not a bad idea to change the rear main seal on the engine, and the input shaft seal on the gearbox while you are in there, if money allows and you have a do it once do it right attitude, they are tuppence each really Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Matt_ 42 Report post Posted December 29, 2013 Real OEM and pelican parts is your friend. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Etwenty1 45 Report post Posted December 29, 2013 +1 for gavin, he can supply pilot and throwout bearings too. I have the shifter part you need. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted December 29, 2013 Would help to know where in NZ you are. I used Sterling Brake & Clutch in Onehunga, Akl. OEM quality, good guys to deal with and good pricing. Right down to replacing a busted bleed valve on the clutch slave. Clutch kits are around $300 - 400, comes with throwout too. Better to just get a new one and save the arseing about in a few months when the existing plate starts to lose the plot. Brent (forum sponsor) can help out with shifter parts I believe. Good luck, conversions can be a trying project but the result is entirely worth the grief Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sierra9260 4 Report post Posted January 3, 2014 Appreciate the help guys. I know I sound pretty cheap but just want to keep my costs down at the moment. etwenty1 I messaged you about that bracket. Looks like I'll get onto Gavin about these extra bits. So other than the rear main seal by the back of the crank shaft and the seal tucked in behind the input shaft on the gear box are there any other seals possibly around the bell housing? Or am I good there. Buying new clutch plate would make for me definitely having to get the fly wheel resurfaced, is that right? I'm in Hawkes Bay by the way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Etwenty1 45 Report post Posted January 4, 2014 Have replied to your pm. Yep new clutch disc requires flywheel to be machined. My donor clutch disc was still good and about 75% thickness so I did the throwout bearing, RMS and tightened up the shift linkages. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sierra9260 4 Report post Posted January 9, 2014 Okay so new problem. Ive got a few new replacements and things coming so I can finally have my car running but now it looks as though the seal on the clutch slave cylinder has had it.... I put the manual pedal assembly in got some new hydraulic hoses and hooked it all up to bleed the clutch line to see what nick the cylinder was like as it looked pretty suspect. Pressed the clutch to the point where the piston was right out and not going back in and then started spitting fluid. Am I able to get this seal replaced? If so where would I go? I hope I can get this thing refurbished as getting a whole new cylinder looks like a right nightmare. appreciate the help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sierra9260 4 Report post Posted January 9, 2014 Just did some research and interestingly it appears the seal I'm referring to is in fact just a dust cover. I think I may have just bled the thing wrong. The piston was pushed out when i was pressing the clutch down and just kept wanting to go further resulting in fluid spitting out. Are there any decent guides showing exactly how to bleed a clutch and what I should do at that point of the piston going way far out and not going back in? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2126 Report post Posted January 9, 2014 cheap is okay, but not at the expence of doing it properly. for example, putting a 3/4 worn clutch in = waste of time, 1/4 worn, well you can get away with it etc etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites