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WillD

E30 320i 'pinking'

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Since I got my car about 2 years ago, I've been having to run my car on 98 to stop the car from pinking on 95 and 91 and so stopped running on low octanes to stop pinking... however, running on 98, mates driving behind me say my car smells like its running quite rich. When the pinking happens on the lower octanes I get a lot of oil burnt out the back (blue smoke). However, when on 98 it doesn't pink but will still smoke quite a bit when setting off or when under load, just wondering if anyone could share some insight as too what this could be or if they might have a similar issue? Possible piston ring replacement for a Saturday in the garage (for the oil burning at least)?
*Also worth noting when I purchased the car, it still had a very solid 200/195psi spread on the 6 cylinders.

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what year is it , facelift or prefacelift

early cars can have the timing adjusted , maybe its too far advanced.

or fuelling is up the crap , running to lean .

get a mechanic to check the timing also get a gas analyser plugged into it to check the co2 etc

could be worn out afm , vacuum leaks , bad temp sensor etc

or maybe the head has been off and planned to much to raise the compression etc

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If its actually detonating i would be checking ignition first. Check timing. Then check colour of spark plugs tips immediatly after a hard run of a min or two. White means too lean. Damaged or worn plugs are often a sign of detonation having occured.

I dint think the head could be planed enough to bump the compression up to that kind of level.

Hard to do under no load but if access is available hold revs at 3k and see if any exhaust pipe heats up from cold more or less than others over 30 seconds. Need ir thermometer.

From there fuel delivery. Could be faulty injector. Afm or o2 sensors.

If a cylinder is running lean the computer bumps all injectors up until it stops so you can have a lean mix causing the overall engine to run rich.

My m20b25 did that when the c101 plug corroded. Front three injectors ran at half voltage so the duty cycle was doubled by the ecu which left the rear three massivly over fuelling.

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Thanks heaps for the info guys, will give ignition and sparks a check over this weekend and if nothing found will move to look at afm and temp sensor etc. Intake was replaced with new filters etc a few months ago as it had some cracks and wear so thought that could be it, but didnt change a thing. cars a pre facelift. Will give an update sunday. Been trying small things to fix it but cant find any threads online, I've got a good few weeks off and have had enough so just want it done! Again thanks for the info

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Check that the vacuum advance and retard unit on the distributor is functioning properly i.e. diaphragm intact and mechanism free and moving the base plate in the distributor. Also check the centrifugal advance is free i.e. not rusted up, and that the springs are both there. Lubricate the whole system while you are at it.

Make sure the vacuum lines are connected the right way around and the tubes are intact and holding vacuum.

I will be surprised if all of these parts are working correctly as the distributor normally does not get any TLC for the life of the car and ends up rusted solid, often in the advanced position, springs missing etc.

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