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Gus

Engine hesitation

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Guest MSBOND

Year: 2000

Make: BMW Hartge

Model: E46 V8

Configuration: V8

Curb Weight: 1584 kg / 3492 lbs

Displacement: 4941 cc / 301.5 cu in

Power: 298.3 kw / 400 bhp @ 6600 rpm

Torque: 500 nm / 368.8 ft lbs @ 3800 rpm

Gear Type: 6-Speed Manual

Top Speed: 3000 kph

0 - 60 mph 4.6sec

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when i say it was running like a subaru with no power - thats what i meant - mine is a pretty base model 325, as in nothing special or extra, so compare it with a base model subaru.

I took a 99 version 6 sti for a drive when i was last in wellington. It had lag for africa and the gearbox felt sloppy - which i was assured was "normal". If i had to buy a rally bred car, i would have to go with an evo or a focus or somthing - subarus sound funny, some can look good, but as a general rule they aint my cup of tea.

And as for the reliablity issues - they suck for it.

as for the speed bit - my mate had one (93 subaru WRX) - we were going down the expressway between napier and hastings, he put his foot down, so i did, sat right up his ass till his car would go no more - then pulled out and passed him.

Overall - im not a fan, i have been in a few, and driven a few more - enough for me to know that i dont like them.

sorry if this runs contrary to your beliefs

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and if you turn the word "subaru" around, you get "u r a bus"

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BMW E36 M3 Specs

Weight 1440 kg / 3174.7 lbs

Engine: S50 Straight 6

Engine location : Front, longitudinally mounted

Displacement : 3.201 liter / 195.3 cu in

Valvetrain: 4 valves/cylinder, DOHC

Fuel feed: Bosch MSS 50 Fuel injection

Aspiration: Naturally Aspirated

Gearbox: 6 Speed Manual

Drive Rear wheel drive

Power: 321 bhp / 239.5 kW @ 7400 rpm

BHP/Liter: 100.3

Torque: 350 Nm / 258.1 ft lbs @ 3250 rpm

Power to weight ratio: 0.22 bhp/kg

Top Speed: 155.3 mph / 250.0 km/h (limited)

0-60 mph: Acceleration 5.50 s

There we have it, the 1996 M3 is better in every respect with the exception of the 0 - 60 mph.

Also, your statement about a WRX or Legacy beating everyones cars on this site...again you are wrong!!!

M3AN's E36 M3 would kick the ass of either of these cars, and he is an active member of this site. Glenn's E30 turbo charged beast would also give a WRX a good run for its money. Also Randy Sparre's Porsche GT2 would leave a WRX or Legacy in its dust (but this a bit unfair as Randy very rarely is on the site).

I have nothing against Subaru WRX's, I actually quite like them in their standard form or their proper (and I mean proper...not a normal WRX with some STi stickers) STi versions.

Cheers

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and if you turn the word "subaru" around, you get "u r a bus"

hahahaha...actually quite funny.

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Anyway, this is getting right off topic.

Poor Gus, I hope his engine hesitation isn't getting any worse.

Cheers

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Guest MSBOND

Year: 2000

Origin: Munich, Germany

Make: BMW

Base Price: $45 000 USD

Model: E46 M3

Drive Wheels Front Engine / RWD

Configuration: Inline-6

Curb Weight: 1542 kg / 3400 lbs

Valvetrain: DOHC 4 Valves / Cyl

Displacement: 3245 cc / 198.0 cu in

Power: 255.8 kw / 343.0 bhp @ 7900 rpm

Torque: 364.72 nm / 269.0 ft lbs @ 4900 rpm

Gear Type: 6-Speed Manual

Top Speed: 249.4 kph / 155.0 mph

0 - 60 mph 4.7 seconds

Starting to get better.

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Guest MSBOND

when i say it was running like a subaru with no power - thats what i meant - mine is a pretty base model 325, as in nothing special or extra, so compare it with a base model subaru.

I took a 99 version 6 sti for a drive when i was last in wellington. It had lag for africa and the gearbox felt sloppy - which i was assured was "normal". If i had to buy a rally bred car, i would have to go with an evo or a focus or somthing - subarus sound funny, some can look good, but as a general rule they aint my cup of tea.

And as for the reliablity issues - they suck for it.

as for the speed bit - my mate had one (93 subaru WRX) - we were going down the expressway between napier and hastings, he put his foot down, so i did, sat right up his ass till his car would go no more - then pulled out and passed him.

Overall - im not a fan, i have been in a few, and driven a few more - enough for me to know that i dont like them.

sorry if this runs contrary to your beliefs

1 you were talking bout a "wap wap wap" noise which comes from a turbo charged subaru, so i presumed you were talking turbo charged.

2 you must be going to some pretty shitty car yards or your mates dont know how to take care of there cars

3 reliability issues? have you looked at the forum? BMW's r just as bad as every other car there is out there... xcept bongo vans. :P

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Guest Andrew

I like the STi .. Don't get me wrong. But put them in the same gearing ratio as a bimmer and it would be such a different story. Ever raced any jap car and heard him change into like 3 by the time you are half way through 2nd..

Shelley your car would own most normal subarus.

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Guest MSBOND

well wen i was taking bimmerboy out i draged one, but it was packed with passengers i was just getting away from him. But i just jumped to the turbo charged subi cos he was making it sound like thats what he was talking bout.

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Guest Andrew

well wen i was taking bimmerboy out i draged one, but it was packed with passengers i was just getting away from him. But i just jumped to the turbo charged subi cos he was making it sound like thats what he was talking bout.

I think wap wap wap would be from there excessive exhausts most have and there cool cylinder arrangement - which is why they sound like porsches somewhat, I like the sound.

Any how - ALL the bmws would own them in the twisties - go read every review. (i'm talking all the m3s here.)

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hmm....ANYWAY.......its not a suby forums....they're nice cars....but are a diff class being race bred rally machines (STi versions).....which explains why they so much faster 0-100 shelley......4WD......grant im thinking that if i have leaking injectors cant i just replace the O rings??? it looks relatively easy and imagine new o rings wouldnt be particularly expensive....even a dealer couldnt charge too much for o rings...could they? what u reckon?

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Guest Andrew

hmm....ANYWAY.......its not a suby forums....they're nice cars....but are a diff class being race bred rally machines (STi versions).....which explains why they so much faster 0-100 shelley......4WD......grant im thinking that if i have leaking injectors cant i just replace the O rings??? it looks relatively easy and imagine new o rings wouldnt be particularly expensive....even a dealer couldnt charge too much for o rings...could they? what u reckon?

Back on topic.

Drove gus' car today.. car was..a little warmed up and I shifted into 2nd and cruised a bit at about 50 then floored it. Was a big hesitation were revs dropped then it picked up and pulled hard like that 325 does.

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I really dunno (about the O rings?) but if you can sort it cheaply that is a bonus.

Mine didn't hesitate as soon as it got semi warm (just when it was cold, and for the first say 2 minutes max).

I would get a diagnostic machine plugged into it if I were you, so you know once and for all why it is hesitating. Then you will now what you need to repair.

Gus, how did the brake bleed go? What DOT rating fluid did you use. I am thinking of using DOT5 to get a really high boiling point, to make brake fade hopefully not come on so early (David Brace had this problem last year)

Cheers

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one quick point back off the topic - most bus's sound like wap wap wap. And they are as was stated - in a differnt class. As for reliability - all my mates who have had them have looked after them - they break down a hell of a lot more than any bimmer i know of (excpet maybe gus's one!!) That the last i will say about it.

Back on topic:

Does the DOT thing of the brake fluid used make a difference to brake fade? My brakes dont fade too badly - just when im nailing it at high speeds and giving the brakes a workout.

Also, brake dust - with the standard bimmer brake pads - i had chronic brake dust buildups on the wheels. But the monday before I came up to Auckland I had to get new brake pads. My mechanic put some other brand in - I cant remember what they were, but Ill find out for you all when I go in to get my WOF tomorrow - but they have cut down on the dust hugely - as in my chromies are still shining after a weekend which involved about 250km of driving and some highish speeds.

As with the valve leaking, Im not too sure that replacing the O-rings would be the solution - hopefully (for your wallets sake!!) it is somthing that simple. As grant said i think your best bet will be to hook it up to the diagnostics computer and find out why it is doing it. Maybe it could be in need of a tune up? Does it sound any different when its hesitating? could it just be missing a bit?

When you say that the car wont start, do you mean it cranks over and over without starting, or does it just not turnover at all?

Anyway, good luck, and as for shelley - I dont like Subarus, never have, never will, nothing you or anyone else says will change how i feel, so to avoid more arguments, please just leave it as it stands, again, opinions vary.

Edited by Napier_E36

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when the car doesnt start it just doesnt start...all electrics work just nothing happens....it usually works if i go inside and yell loudly that i may as well stay home then sneak back into the car and try start it without it looking it normally does....diagonstic machine sounds good to be honest....might have to add that on to the ever increasing list when ernst does my car...i might just do the o rings anyway....the problems not actually that bad...doesnt do it that often and is fine after its warm....

the brake fluid....used the mobil brake/clutch fluid.....dot 3/4??? brake fade is not something im lookign forward to....brake bleeds are easy as.....just need another person...be more than happy to give ya a hand if ya need sometime

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Gus,

I think that Andrew, Dave, you and I will get together and do a group brake bleed this weekend. Maybe before or after the Intermarque Concours??

Does this sound like a plan?

Cheers

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haha a group brake bleed......haha how sad...yeah sounds good....my place or andrews is prob the best......intermarque concours this weekend......means perfect circle is next week! oh man better get my ticket.....what do u think about the dot rating? is it a very important thing for track days?

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It is a bit sad...but unfortunately you need more than one person...(and also as I have never done this before, I want someone else there who has done this to make sure I don't stuff it up...brakes are a pretty important part, I don't want to run too many risks!!). I am bludging off your guys experience here!!!

In talking to David Brace last weekend, he was saying that brake fade was his biggest problem last year, and this year at Pukekohe, he changed to a higher DOT rating, and brake fade was no where near the same problem. The higher the boiling point of the fluid, the longer it will last before boiling and causing brake fade.

Cheers

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The higher the boiling point of the fluid, the longer it will last before boiling and causing brake fade.

I did not know that - Ill remember that for when I next do brake fluid. (both for the wagon and my bimmer)

Bleeding brakes are easy, just dont do what my old man did to his truck - got fluid on the discs, made stopping a bit interesting for a little while!

Edited by Napier_E36

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yeah - it seems pretty easy and straight forward...I just want to be 100% positive that when I press that middle pedal, I am going to come to a stop (preferably before hitting a solid object)!!!

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haha yeah that will be helpful. its like insurance a, you spend money in the hopes of not needing it, but its there for if you do a! id rather be able to stop beofre hitting somthing, and thank myself for the extra money spent than hit somthing and kick myself for not doing it a!

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yeah - it seems pretty easy and straight forward...I just want to be 100% positive that when I press that middle pedal, I am going to come to a stop (preferably before hitting a solid object)!!!

Still not much use if you have made it to the grass!!

Brake bleeding sucks!! Good luck.

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I guess not...but I don't want to make it to the grass ;) (touch wood), and will do whatever I can to ensure that my stopping power will work (without replacing brake components).

Cheers

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