rogerthat1 0 Report post Posted November 23, 2019 Vehicle particulars:Prod. Date 1995-08-28Type 328I (EUR)Series E36 (3 Series)Body Type CABRIOSteering RL / right hand driveEngine M52Displacement 2.80Power 142kw / 193hpDrive HECK / rearTransmission AutomaticHi Guys , I am new to the forum but have been reading up alot on other's posts and found some very useful information here. I have a BMW E36 328I convertible,the car has a JATCO A5S300J transmission . The problems that I am having with the car is that the car stalls when I engage it into gear. This only happens when the car has been driven for about 5 miles and at normal mid range operating temperature. When the car is started at a mid range temperature and I engage it into gear the vehicle would stall . The car would go easily into the gears but it stalls the engine. I will then have to wait for about 10 minutes for the vehicle to cool down then it would not stall when I engage it into gear and would drive fine. This problem also never happens when the car is cold but only when warm when I drove it for a nice distance. The vehicle would misfire tremendously when I engage it into gear when the engine is cold but does not stall the engine when it's cold . I then thought that the transmission might need a oil service. I then jacked the car up level from the ground , idled it for about 15 minutes to warm up the fluid, switched off and drained the oil. Surprisingly only about 3- 3.5 litres of oil came out of the oil pan. I then pumped new oil in. Started the car and shifted it through the gears and pumped fluid in until it streams out of the filler plug whilst in park. Only about 3.7 - 4 litres of oil wanted to go into the transmission. What I do notice is that the car now has about a 2 seconds delay in shifting into gear from a stand still position. I used Castrol Transmax ATF Dex iii oil because the oil company who manufactured oil for the Jatco transmission no longer exists Apollo oil. I then thought that it might be DME sensor related like the AIT , CAM and Crank sensor, engine temperature sensor or ICV caused the transmission to act funny . Or it might have to do with the closed loop not being activated due to a faulty O2 sensor. I rather decided to have the car scanned at a BMW dealer to give me a better idea instead of just throwing money at parts that is not needed. These were the codes that I got:I put my assumption after doing some research of what the cause could be in brackets( Engine Control Module - DME/DDE )41 Camshaft Sensor ( camshaft position sensor needing replacement)53 Crankshaft Sensor ( crank sensor needing replacement)08 Air- Mass Flow Sensor (already replaced ,noticed a crack in rubber boot )TCM ( Transmission Control Module - EGS)69 Engine overdriving interlock ( input and output shaft not correlated due to torque converter lockup clutch ) ( Torque converter solenoid malfunction)64 Speed Monitoring (Wheel Speed Sensor ) ( pulse generator sensor on the transmission)65 Speed Monitoring04 Solenoid valve , converter lockup clutch (input and output shaft not correlated due to torque converter lockup clutch ) (Torque converter solenoid malfunction)68 voltage supply to EDS and MV (no idea )ABS ( Anti - Lock Braking System - DSC )52 Wheel Speed Sensor , Front Right , not installed or Faulty (wheel speed sensor needing replacement)51 Wheel Speed Sensor , Front left , not installed or Faulty (wheel speed sensor needing replacement)11 Operation of front left inlet valve faulty (no idea) I would really appreciate some expert advice on this so that I can get this car running like a dream again. Thanks in advance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B.M.W Ltd 950 Report post Posted November 23, 2019 What scan tool are you using ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rogerthat1 0 Report post Posted November 24, 2019 22 hours ago, B.M.W Ltd said: What scan tool are you using ? It's the Launch X431 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B.M.W Ltd 950 Report post Posted November 25, 2019 What happens when you clear fault codes and adaptions, drive it again and rescan it ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rogerthat1 0 Report post Posted November 25, 2019 Hi. I did not try that because at the BMW mechanical shop it costs me a good penny each time to have the car scanned. I had the car's fault codes read with the DELPHI code reader and cleared the codes 2 days before having it scanned with the Launch X431 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B.M.W Ltd 950 Report post Posted November 25, 2019 Most of those fault codes need to be determined using live data and going through a sequence of diagnostic checking using that Launch X431 not your code reader. You will need professional help to sort those issues out. Some of them could also be related to each other as well and be the result of something else happening to cause the fault code to be triggered. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites