acaratus 0 Report post Posted March 28, 2009 (edited) Hi guys, Along the same lines, I too have a question... I have a recently bought a '95 BMW 525i (think it's a VANOS M50B25 engine), a jap import, comes with a JATCO 5-speed auto trans (the label reads JR502E and then GB010 and 4821152YOE) - changing 2nd to 3rd is a bit jerky so I'm thinking of changing the ATF and filter (can't tell how bad/old the fluid since there's no dipstick). Any ideea what ATF type I should use? Alternativelly, could anyone recommend a trustworthy/fair priced AT service specialist in Christchurch? Cheers, Alex Edited March 28, 2009 by alex_c Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted March 28, 2009 Hi guys, Along the same lines, I too have a question... I have a recently bought a '95 BMW 525i (think it's a VANOS M50B25 engine), a jap import, comes with a JATCO 5-speed auto trans (the label reads JR502E and then GB010 and 4821152YOE) - changing 2nd to 3rd is a bit jerky so I'm thinking of changing the ATF and filter (can't tell how bad/old the fluid since there's no dipstick). Any ideea what ATF type I should use? Alternativelly, could anyone recommend a trustworthy/fair priced AT service specialist in Christchurch? Cheers, Alex Use the same oil G3 full synthetic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
acaratus 0 Report post Posted March 29, 2009 Use the same oil G3 full synthetic Hi Glenn, thanks for the info. A couple more questions, if possible: - How can I make sure G3 is OK with the ATF already in (as I understand I won't be able to drain more than 3-4 litres out of the total 8?) - what brand would be better? - Is there any way to reset transmission program without using a specialised tool? Cheers, Alex Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted March 29, 2009 Hi Glenn, thanks for the info. A couple more questions, if possible: - How can I make sure G3 is OK with the ATF already in (as I understand I won't be able to drain more than 3-4 litres out of the total 8?) - what brand would be better? - Is there any way to reset transmission program without using a specialised tool? Cheers, Alex Best you give me a call Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RodM 0 Report post Posted March 30, 2009 You mean to say that even on a tranny fluid change I need to reset the ECU like on engine oil change? During the weekend I did the fluid change and pumped about 6.5Ltrs when another guy was in the car going through the gears from R-n-d-4-3-2 on interval of 30 sec each. After the change the gears are smoother and everything is ok so far. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
acaratus 0 Report post Posted March 31, 2009 Hi guys, Along the same lines, I too have a question... I have a recently bought a '95 BMW 525i (think it's a VANOS M50B25 engine), a jap import, comes with a JATCO 5-speed auto trans (the label reads JR502E and then GB010 and 4821152YOE) - changing 2nd to 3rd is a bit jerky so I'm thinking of changing the ATF and filter (can't tell how bad/old the fluid since there's no dipstick). Any ideea what ATF type I should use? Alternativelly, could anyone recommend a trustworthy/fair priced AT service specialist in Christchurch? Correction: the jerky upshift is in fact between 1st and 2nd (I thought it was starting in the 2dn gear, but that only happens when I put it in * mode, which is fine, slow start but no silly 1st/2nd jerking). Anyway, I've booked it with the Aceomatic service shop in Addington (Clearance St) for next Tue - anyone been there before, any issues? Any other AT service specialist in Chch that you guys recommend? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
acaratus 0 Report post Posted April 7, 2009 Correction: the jerky upshift is in fact between 1st and 2nd (I thought it was starting in the 2dn gear, but that only happens when I put it in * mode, which is fine, slow start but no silly 1st/2nd jerking). Anyway, I've booked it with the Aceomatic service shop in Addington (Clearance St) for next Tue - anyone been there before, any issues? Any other AT service specialist in Chch that you guys recommend? So, I had the Aceomatic guy scan both the engine and transmission - no faults reported by the electronics. He says he'd take the transmission out and start taking it apart, trying to find and fix the problem, but that can get expensive - anywhere between $1500 (best case scenarion when only a few minor parts need to be replaced) to $3500+ (in case the transmission has to be overhauled). Unfortunatelly I'm not prepared to invest that kind of money at this stage, so I'm thinking of changing the ATF myself (with the help of a mechanic friend). Glenn, what brand was that G3 Full Syntethic ATF you recommended? Cheers, Alex Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted April 7, 2009 We use Elf.. but any well branded oil will be fine Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
acaratus 0 Report post Posted April 7, 2009 (edited) We use Elf.. but any well branded oil will be fine Thanks Glenn, something like this: http://www.partsquip.com/files/imagecache/...20Oil%20050.jpg ? How about the filter and trans pan seal? Edited April 7, 2009 by alex_c Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bekker 7 Report post Posted April 7, 2009 Thanks Glenn, something like this: http://www.partsquip.com/files/imagecache/...20Oil%20050.jpg ? How about the filter and trans pan seal? http://www.penrite.com.au/products.php?id_...;id_products=37http://www.penrite.com.au/products.php?id_...;id_products=33 Also if the jerky shift is due to wear you could try this too, it's not expensive and won't hurt. http://www.lubegard.com/automotive/trans_shudder_fixx.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
genka 1 Report post Posted August 30, 2011 (edited) ok im a bit confused about my tran pan. its not like the ones for a A5S310Z that ive seen in service manuals and online. and also it dont have any stickers to say which fluid to put in. picture taken looking back. i felt around the pan to see if there are any other plugs, nada.. its just those 2. Hi. I am no expert, but from experience with mine (1997 323i) I would say the plug on the left (with the Allen key) is the Filler - it in more recessed, hence higher. And the plug on the right looks like the drain plug. Although recessed, it is probably lower than the Filler, which is 'collared'. PS, looks like you have had a couple of scrapes on your underbelly... See my pics on http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=36701 - Actually, when I look again, it is exactly like mine... Edited August 30, 2011 by Genka Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
genka 1 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 http://www.penrite.com.au/products.php?id_...;id_products=37 http://www.penrite.com.au/products.php?id_...;id_products=33 Also if the jerky shift is due to wear you could try this too, it's not expensive and won't hurt. http://www.lubegard.com/automotive/trans_shudder_fixx.html Blast! That "Trans Shudder fix" page has gone. Is it the same as this one? http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-230/Dr.+Tranny...nt+Shudder+Fixx It claims to be a "...concentrated friction modifier formulated specifically for INSTANTLY eliminating torque converter lock-up shudder" Yeah, right... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
