jpp 0 Report post Posted September 20, 2006 Hey, I've just bought an e30 1989 sedan off trade-me with a cracked radiator. I pick up the car tomorrow on a trailer and going to buy a good cond. 2nd radiator from SD Euro for $309 incl. [Good price ??] What I'm after basically is someone to walk me through the change from flushing the anti-freeze to anything else I should know... I assume it will be somewhat straight forward yes? Cheers guys, Jared [newbie] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nz320i 0 Report post Posted September 20, 2006 sooo easy you wont need help just get stuck into it! you will find the drain hole at the bottom, let it all out then undo all tubes going onto radiator, put the new one on tighten up all the tubes again and you should be sweet! buy some coolant either from the dealer or stuff with no nitrates or phosphates ive heard its better for the bmw.. also good time to replace other parts if the car is tired?? not sure... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jpp 0 Report post Posted September 20, 2006 Yeah thats what I thought but wasn't sure if anything else I needed to know. Cool. Basically next on the agenda will be a manual conversion so anyone in Auks that has parts PM me! Ahh also, talked to a chap 'Ray' from the shore that I've noticed a few others here have talked to and will be getting an auto radiator [larger] tomorrow morning for $120. Primo. May go to him for some manual parts unless you guys have some ? ? ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nz320i 0 Report post Posted September 20, 2006 thats all good i did conversion and use the auto radiator, works sweet, and yeah hes pretty good to deal with aye. A guy on here is selling a conversion kit, but for a 318i....dont know what yours is ray might have parts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jpp 0 Report post Posted September 20, 2006 Cool, yeah will talk to Ray first thing tomorrow. I'm getting 320i Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted September 20, 2006 (edited) Ray is royz off TM. Used to work out of home but now has a workshop behind Bavarian Motors. Have sourced the odd bit off him here and there. Coolant system is easy. Buy a flush to remove any oxidisatin and scaling etc. As well as the radiator drain plug, there is also a drain pug on the drivers side of the block if you want to drain the coolant entirely. There is a small screw on top of the thermostat for bleeding air out of the system when you're done. There are how-to's around. Google them. When was the cambelt done? Do it if its due. You need to drain the coolant and remove the radiator to do this anyway, so do them together. The last person I advised this on his new e30 spent the money on a big bore instead. He now has an e30 with no motor. While you're doing the cambelt do the water pump and check the front camshaft seal for leaks. Inspect all your belts. They have to come off for cambelt so good time to replace. Do your plugs, oil, and filters. Check condition of your motor mounts. I know it sounds like a big expensive list, but if you can do a lot of it yourself its not. Edited September 20, 2006 by bravomikewhiskey Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jpp 0 Report post Posted September 22, 2006 Hrm, well after installing the radiator, [easier than I thought], we idled the car and after 10ish mins the temp. gauge started to rise and the coolant/water started to boil. Pressure was building up in the top pipe yet had no air left. So we are now thinking its a thermostat problem as-well so am getting a replacement tomorrow morning from Ray again, should have a running car before the night is out! Picks of it on the trailer [towed it up from Waihi to Auks] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver Fox 43 Report post Posted September 22, 2006 Wouldn't be surprised if you have an air block, i had problems with mine, and ended up putting the garden hose up the small bottom return hose and turning it on untill water was coming out the bleeder screw and the top return hose from the block. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jpp 0 Report post Posted September 22, 2006 Wouldn't be surprised if you have an air block, i had problems with mine, and ended up putting the garden hose up the small bottom return hose and turning it on untill water was coming out the bleeder screw and the top return hose from the block. Yeah could do, but we are pretty confident. No air bubbling and we bleed it with the top hose before attaching it the hoses back up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jpp 0 Report post Posted September 22, 2006 Note: Getting Hibicus fan + thermostat Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jpp 0 Report post Posted September 23, 2006 Ok, so I changed thermostat -- car is no-longer over-heating on the temp. gauge, but the "Overheat" red led above head is still on, and flickers every now and then. I managed to drive the car for well over 2hrs at mixed speeds and the temp. gauge stayed under half. Possible that the led has shorted somehow or more likely that I should replace the hibicus fan also then get checked by a pro? [Car drives awesome tho, love the idle sound] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
