Will they fit?

[alex 0]

Hey guys,

This is just in idea stage, but looking at some 18 x 8.5 wheels for the m3 (e36), what am i in for trying to get these to fit ? Also what sort of performance loss am i looking at.. is it worth it?

[Guest Spargo]

BBS RC's, correct?

Probably no loss in handling / power, seeing they'll be just as light as M3 rims.

Depeding on offset, you may only need to run a small rear spacer and some guard rolling.

Allow me to be first in line for your M3 rims

[alex 0]

Was actualy thinking about those Bayern Mesh, still unsure of how they would look.. but i love dish. BBS RC's are very nice too, but trying to find some nice dished wheels..

[alex 0]

Does anyone know what a set of BBS RC's would cost in 18 x 8.5 and 18 x 8? Kinda giving up on dish, all the mags i seem to like aren't dish..

Edited January 3, 2007 by alex

[alex 0]

Thanks for that mate, this is what i was afraid of, i dont want to pay money to make my car worse.. even tho i really like all the new shape mags, i dont want to ruin the car. Maybe i'll just save the money

[Guest Spargo]

IMO you are better off with the original wheels and better tyres than flash wheels and sh*t tyres.

Since when were BBS flash or sh*t?

[hybrid 1043]

Does anyone know what a set of BBS RC's would cost in 18 x 8.5 and 18 x 8? Kinda giving up on dish, all the mags i seem to like aren't dish..

you just need guidence .... New Zealand blows for its mag selection, do what I did ... make a list of all the brands of wheels you like and then go hunting on styles, then just order them in .. and make sure you get the correct offset. You shouldnt have to run spacers if you get the right offset.

[E30-323ti 66]

you just need guidence .... New Zealand blows for its mag selection

Agreed, buying a quality wheel like the BBS's is a lot better than the cheap asian junk wheels NZ is littered with, but again they come at a much higher cost.

do what I did ... make a list of all the brands of wheels you like and then go hunting on styles, then just order them in .. and make sure you get the correct offset. You shouldnt have to run spacers if you get the right offset.

You forgot to add the "bend over and grab your ankles" part (for the most of us that is).

FYI +96 M3's had 17x8.5" rears with a 40 offset, no reason why a 18x8.5" with the same offset wouldn't fit fine with the CORRECT size tyres on the rear, the front would be getting tight for space to the strut.

As always when changing wheels the careful selection of the correct size tyre is one of the most important things as evidenced in another thread recently where the wrong size tyres were fitted.

[Yuen 16]

Alex, the cast BBS RC and RK wheels are both one of the lightest around. 18" is only 18.xx lbs. 17" are about 16.xx lbs. The CH model is pretty heavy.

AC Schnitzer wheels are also heavy, the 17" ones are already ~22lbs. But then again so are most wheels. I think the BMW 17" Lightweight wheels (forged) that came on some M3s (maybe on yours?) are ~19lbs.

Then you want to consider forged vs. cast wheels... but if you're not too worried about pot holes then I wouldn't worry.

[lidistick 70]

Alex, the cast BBS RC and RK wheels are both one of the lightest around. 18" is only 18.xx lbs. 17" are about 16.xx lbs. The CH model is pretty heavy.

AC Schnitzer wheels are also heavy, the 17" ones are already ~22lbs. But then again so are most wheels. I think the BMW 17" Lightweight wheels (forged) that came on some M3s (maybe on yours?) are ~19lbs.

Then you want to consider forged vs. cast wheels... but if you're not too worried about pot holes then I wouldn't worry.

I had to get my guards rolled to fit the 18" BBS RC to my E36 sedan. It was ok but touched a little over some shitty back-country roads. As stated earlier, get good tires. I run 225/40/18 and its the correct size according to the Miata calculator. I supposed you could run 235/35/18 for the back and 225/40/18 for the fronts. Expect some tramlining over our bad roads.

Cheers.

[Guest Spargo]

The term "tramlining" is being used to describe when directional control is disrupted by the vehicle's tendency to follow the longitudinal ruts and/or grooves in the road. It's name could be compared to the tram or trolley driver who does not steer because his vehicle follows the path established by the tracks.

Any vehicle can exhibit tramlining on certain areas of the highway because of uneven pavement or severe rutting. And all vehicles tramline to some degree rather than obediently following the driver's steering input. For example, there's usually at least a small change in steering resistance felt through the wheel when crossing an uneven expansion joint or asphalt junction during lane changes.

Noticeable increases in tramlining are frequently uncovered when drivers living in the snowbelt make the seasonal changeover from winter tires to summer tires, or when any driver upgrades the performance of their tires using either the same size or going to a "Plus Size" tire and wheel package. The reason that it becomes more pronounced then is because neither the typically narrower and softer handling winter tires nor the Original Equipment tires generate as much grip or responsiveness as the higher performance summer tires. Since the vehicle's suspension works as a complete package, a higher performance tire will also uncover any previously unnoticed looseness in the rest of the suspension.

Components

Tires have the most direct influence on tramlining because they are the part of the vehicle that comes into contact with the road (and the longitudinal ruts and/or grooves that exist there). Unfortunately anything that increases a high performance tire's responsiveness also increases its willingness to tramline.

High performance tires with short sidewalls that develop lots of cornering power at lower slip angles will be more susceptible to tramlining than standard All-Season passenger tires that develop less cornering force until their slip angle increases. A wider treaded tire will encounter more longitudinal ruts and/or grooves in the road than a narrow treaded tire. A tire with large tread blocks that transmits the driver's input to the road with great precision will also transmit the road's imperfections back to the vehicle's suspension. And because tires become more responsive as their tread depth wears away (which is why tires are shaved for competition and track use), a tire will become more likely to tramline as it wears.

Wheels can influence tramlining as well. Installing wider tires or a "Plus Size" tire and wheel package usually requires using wheels with a different offset then the vehicle's original wheels. In some cases, the new wheel will have slightly less offset than the original and in other cases, slightly more. It all depends on the vehicle's suspension design and available wheelwell clearances. You will even find that Original Equipment manufacturers often use different wheel offsets for their different diameter tire and wheel packages.

Usually the amount of offset change is kept to a minimum and vehicle tracking remains relatively unchanged. However it the offset is significantly different, it will alter the way the road forces are transmitted through the tire and wheel to the suspension. Therefore, large changes in wheel offset will increase the likelihood of tramlining.

Suspension bushings, ball joints and shock absorber mounts have a direct influence on tramlining as well. As miles are driven and the years go by, the suspension's wear parts will deteriorate as they age. This often happens so slowly that it isn't very noticeable. Over time the ever-increasing suspension wear permits play that eventually allows the tire to be directed by the irregularities of the road rather than be controlled by the suspension.

Imagine a worn suspension that allows a front wheel and tire to swing between the recommended 1/16-inch of toe-in and 1/16-inch of toe-out when it encounters a rut in the road. This 1/8-inch difference in the direction that the tire is pointed will result in the vehicle tramlining. Replace the worn part to remove the play and you will significantly reduce or remove the tramlining. Many drivers with higher mileage cars have reported that replacing worn suspension components has eliminated tramlining and made the car drive like it is new again...which I guess it essentially is!

Service Adjustments

Using higher tire pressures than recommended by the vehicle manufacturer for your driving conditions will unnecessarily stiffen the tire and make it even more willing to cause tramlining. If you are running higher tire pressures than necessary, simply dropping the tire pressures to those recommended by the vehicle manufacturer will help reduce tramlining.

Alignment settings can be key as well. The "camber" and "toe" settings both play a role in vehicle stability and the propensity for tramlining. Extreme positive or negative camber settings will make a vehicle more sensitive, especially when only one wheel encounters a longitudinal rut and/or groove at a time. Even if all the tires are "aimed" straight ahead when the vehicle is in motion, a tire that is "cambered" wants to turn. This is the result of the "camber thrust" generated by a leaning tire (it is also part of the explanation of how motorcycles turn). A vehicle suspension using lots of negative camber for competition or the track will experience more tramlining on the street.

Additionally, the drivers who use additional toe-out settings to encourage their vehicle to turn into corners better also encourage tramlining because the extra toe-out will reduce vehicle stability in a straight line.

In the case of the competition driver who uses non-factory alignment settings, the amount of tramlining that is acceptable has to be left up to the driver. For only street-driven cars, getting them aligned with negative camber and toe settings within the factory's specifications is an important first step.

Roads

On a multi-lane highway, usually the right lane offers the smoothest road surface because it sees the least amount of heavy truck traffic. Usually the left hand lanes are the least smooth because they are rutted by heavy truck traffic. When you drive in those lanes, or drive across them to exit the highway, it's possible that you'll find your vehicle may feel like it wants to follow the truck ruts and has a mind of its own.

Driving Style

If you experience tramlining, the main thing you want to remember is to keep both hands on the steering wheel in the proper "9- and 3-o'clock" positions. This will help you make the precise steering inputs that will help keep your vehicle on course. You sacrifice precise control if you drive with one hand on the wheel or both hands in the wrong place.

3pedals, would you say that BMW sets up its cars suspension for the differing size wheel options you can buy when new? IE: for an E36 328i which came on 16" rims, but 17" rims were an option, for example.

[alex 0]

So from what i've gathered it is possible to get these on my car? Thanks for everyones help, i'll do my research a little more and find out some decent prices if i can..

[318isCoupe 0]

So from what i've gathered it is possible to get these on my car? Thanks for everyones help, i'll do my research a little more and find out some decent prices if i can..

Same size wheels I'm running on my car..

Have stretched on 225's which don't rub at all, although I'll go to 235's next time.. (maybe, as sometimes I can't fit my little finger between the sidewall of the tyre and the rear guard lip.. (no rubbing at all in the back though :s)