Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted January 22, 2007 (edited) Right,today after replacing the fanbelt and the cam belt,putting it all back together and turning the key over...wouldn't start. Found that the Crank angle sensor was ripped,so figured that was the problem...did a repair job of it,soldered etc(this could still be the problem?),and put it together and still no-go.Checked all plugs for spark and they've def got spark going through.Checked all fuses etc and nothing was gone. When turning the key over it sounds like it kinda wants to fire but its not quite making it...kinda sounds like the shitty shitty bang bang car...kinda reow reow reow bang bang bang reow reow etc etc.But yeh like a halfarsed fire. So after discussing with Gus,he thinks it could be the timing,but the belt was on pretty much perfect and didn't look funny at all. Any ideas? Cheers Ashkan Edited January 22, 2007 by blackbma Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TronSpec 0 Report post Posted January 22, 2007 Did you line up your cambelt with the timing mark and count the teeth just to double check you've put it on it the right position?? It could be a tooth or two out mate by the sounds of it aye. I done this before on my old m20 motor. I had the thing three teeth out Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted January 22, 2007 yeah...rotating it the timing marks lined up after about 3-4 complete rotations still..figured it was all good im not familiar with l jet and rubbish at figuring these things anyway..any more ideas anyone? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ED1RTY 2 Report post Posted January 22, 2007 When my cambelt was replaced i had the same thing happening except the car started just kept stalling everytime i stopped, the mechanic fiddled with the timing and she was sweet, try to advance slightly, if no go, decrease slightly, if still no go i have no idea. Still got a wierd 'whirring' noise coming from under the cam cover, god knows what it is but i need to sort it... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
will 169 Report post Posted January 22, 2007 There is a timing mark inside the distributor that must line up as well, most people get that wrong as there is no mark on the pulley. The rotor arm must line up with this mark. I am at work so cant send you a pic of the mark but it is on the base of the metal part of the dizzy and visible when you remove the cap. Give me a txt Gus if you are still not sure and I will call you and talk you through it. Will Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ED1RTY 2 Report post Posted January 22, 2007 ^^^ thats what i was trying to say. thank you for elaborating will!! Its wierd how easily it gets messed up, mine was backfiring like a biznitch when it was out... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kerrynzl 3 Report post Posted January 22, 2007 Hey Gus, get out that Ball-peen! There's work to do! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted January 24, 2007 Cheers for the help.Rang Ray at Bavarian and he thinks it is still the crank angle sensor...Buying new loom tommorow,see if that fixes anything,if not thendo some timing yo. Cheers Ashkan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
will 169 Report post Posted January 24, 2007 (edited) Do you have a pic of what you are calling a crank angle sensor?? If it is what I think it is then you are buying something that won't help you diddlysqat.... IMO... replaced cambelt in L-jet 320.... dizzy timing is out... bet you money....!!!! Will edit... I have found what you were talking about in another of your posts, was just what I suspected... That thing is your TDC sensor, it has NOTHING to do with your firing/timing, if Ray tells you it does, tell him to change careers!! (I think he thinks you have a car with motronic ignition, in his defense..but if he saw that pic he should've known better..) That thing goes directly to your diagnostic plug and you use it to check timing (if you have the correct diagnostic equipment to use it) so listen to this old fart and go check your dizzy timing, be a good boy now.. Will Edited January 24, 2007 by will Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted January 24, 2007 Cheers Will,exactly what Gus and I were pondering,considering it's a wire that leads to absolutly NOTHING! If you're at home now and not busy do ya think you could post a pic of what/where that dizzy timing mark is? Really appreciate your help (as everyone else does!) Ashkan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
will 169 Report post Posted January 24, 2007 (edited) This is the best I have, not really hi-res, but the idea is to get the timing marks on the cam and crank pulleys lined up, remove the dizzy and get the rotor to line up with the mark (arrowed) when you replace it. After you need to check the timing with a light, but if it almost lines up, you can fine tune it by rotating the dizzy clockwise/anti-clockwise till the "fingers" on the dizzy, both the fixed ones and the ones attached to the rotor shaft, line up, and the car will start. Give me a call if you don't follow what I am trying to say and i will talk you through it. Will PS if this works (and it will), you owe me becks... Edited January 24, 2007 by will Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted January 24, 2007 yeah sounds about right..will give it a go if can wangle up some time...a bit of a precious commodity at the moment! ashkan, you getting any further along? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TronSpec 0 Report post Posted January 24, 2007 This is the best I have, not really hi-res, but the idea is to get the timing marks on the cam and crank pulleys lined up, remove the dizzy and get the rotor to line up with the mark (arrowed) when you replace it. After you need to check the timing with a light, but if it almost lines up, you can fine tune it by rotating the dizzy clockwise/anti-clockwise till the "fingers" on the dizzy, both the fixed ones and the ones attached to the rotor shaft, line up, and the car will start. Give me a call if you don't follow what I am trying to say and i will talk you through it. Will PS if this works (and it will), you owe me becks... Mmmmm Becks Thats a good german drop Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
318isCoupe 0 Report post Posted January 24, 2007 Mmmmm Becks Thats a good german drop Does no one else drink dark beer's Murphy's Irish Stout FTW. (Stella Artois & Heineken fan at heart though) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted January 24, 2007 yeah sounds about right..will give it a go if can wangle up some time...a bit of a precious commodity at the moment! ashkan, you getting any further along? Think thats a bit out of my skill (very little) range. Going to do the p/s belt today though if I get a chance to.One less thing to do later on... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted January 25, 2007 Still no freakin go. Gus (after talking to Will) rotated the dizzy,it is definitly a better sound this time...only problem is the Pod filter seems to be acting as an exhaust,can smell the petrol coming through it and it shakes the whole AFM.Also the battery area is smoking for f**k knows what reason. Really hope to see ya on Sunday,Will.If not the bring on a mechanic! Cheers for the help Ashkan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted February 1, 2007 Righty oh,thing is running.Took it to a mechanic and fixed it...fiddled with the dizzy and there ya go...hats off to Will Only problem now is,oil light is on...checked the oil and it's fine..any ideas? Also,drove the car home and as soon as I got home it over heated,I semi-thrashed it on the way back...but normally it'd take a caining.Another little thing is it seems to be mis-firing at about 5 grand.Kinda revs up to 5 then backs off for a fraction of a second and then kicks in again,checked plugs etc all got spark.Mech also did a compression test and it was fine on all 6. Not too fussed bout 5k missfire,I don't fang ,overheating is a prob...oh and Gus,rad doesnt seem to be leaking...was probly just water from something else... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
A518catcher 0 Report post Posted February 1, 2007 Think thats a bit out of my skill (very little) range. Going to do the p/s belt today though if I get a chance to.One less thing to do later on... Hi there. have you sorted out the timeing belt issues?. I am a qualified mech and will type this out to see if it helps. it is just the basic stuff for a timing belt.and applys to all cars. The timing is 1342 for a 4 cylinder , get some thing to turn your crank while you have a long thin screw driver in the spark plug hole number one.thats the plug at the front of the engine. when the piston moves up to the highest point , and should line up with a mark on the crank shaft pulley. then it is at Top dead centre . this happens twice each cycle so make sure your distributor is pointing to lead number one to check it is at the firing top dead centre. check that the cam shaft marks line up at that point. you can double check this by taking the rocker cover off and checking that both the inlet and exhaust cam lobs are pointing away from the valve stems. Ie,, not opening valves at all. then all the marks should line up. they should line up again with each two complete revolutions of the crank. and each two complete turns should line up the cam marks and the distributor with spark lead running to number one cylinder. figure out which way the distributor turns when you crank the engine and then make sure the leads run to cylinders 1 then 3 then 4 then 2. the crank angle sensor should not stop the car starting and running. it is there to aid timing and avoid pre ignition. pinking. hope this helps. Rick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted February 1, 2007 Yeh man,timing belt is done. Awesome write up! Think I figured out why the oil light is on though...I am pretty sure there is no ( or very little ) oil getting into the tapets etc.The only reason I am thinking this is because it sounds f**ken horrid when you turn the car over ...kinda like a fingernail on chalkboard thing.Would this have anythng to do with the timing belt etc or is it purely the oil pump or something completly different...again,it never used to do this till timing belt was done. Still getting really hot,drove home with the heaters on from albany to glenfield to keep it cooler and it was sitting just above half...as soon as I turned it off or stopped at lights etc it would start creeping up. Idle is also at about 1300 but when it gets warmer (very quickly) it drops to about 900. Would the lack of oil be affecting this...or is ANYTHING here related? Ahh whata bitch. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
will 169 Report post Posted February 1, 2007 Yeh man,timing belt is done. Awesome write up! Think I figured out why the oil light is on though...I am pretty sure there is no ( or very little ) oil getting into the tapets etc.The only reason I am thinking this is because it sounds f**ken horrid when you turn the car over ...kinda like a fingernail on chalkboard thing.Would this have anythng to do with the timing belt etc or is it purely the oil pump or something completly different...again,it never used to do this till timing belt was done. Still getting really hot,drove home with the heaters on from albany to glenfield to keep it cooler and it was sitting just above half...as soon as I turned it off or stopped at lights etc it would start creeping up. Idle is also at about 1300 but when it gets warmer (very quickly) it drops to about 900. Would the lack of oil be affecting this...or is ANYTHING here related? Ahh whata bitch. Ashkan You had better check that the oil pump drive is engaging, it is driven by the distributor. When I spoke to Gus I tried to explain about the slot under the dizzy having to locate into the oil pump drive and having to turn it so it did. Somewhere along the line when removing the dizzy to get the timing right it sounds like that meshing didn't happen. DO NOT START THE CAR AGAIN TILL YOU HAVE CHECKED IT !!! Your motor is at significant risk!! I just hope you havn't done terminal damage to it already.. ALWAYS check why the oil pressure light is on and don't drive the car till you have definitely found the reason for it being on. The fact that the dipstick shows full means squat!! Will Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BMW POWER 2 Report post Posted February 1, 2007 Wills like the most godly E30 helper on two legs. Man, everyone owes you so much beer you'll have a lifetime supply lol. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted February 2, 2007 Ahhh,allright...took it back to mechanic ( towed the biznitch) and he seems to think (without opening it) that there is a key of some kind under the dizzy which drives the oil into the top of the motor.That was pretty much what Will said! Anyways,problem now is that with us removing the dizzy,that little "key" has come away and is now most likely at the bottom of the sump.He seems to think that it would be a hella expensive fix. Would it be worth draining the oil,taking the sump off to see if it's there and then take it into mech if I find the doodacky? If so how hard is it to remove sump?Had a look and it looks like just the bolts around the sump and your away? Any ideas? Cheers! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
will 169 Report post Posted February 2, 2007 the little key is a rod with hex ends. This connects the dizzy shaft to the oil pump drive. I have just searched my bits and can't find one anywhere to show you what it looks like. I have plenty of them in that bloody "safe" place... It must have somehow dropped out when you removed the dizzy. Strange as it has a retainer to hold it in place to prevent this happening. Removing the sump will require you suspend the motor, undo and lower/remove the crossmember before you can get the sump off. The oil pump and its pickup will prevent you getting the sump off without getting the crossmember well out of the way. You will also have to remove the cover that attaches to the bellhousing and attaches to the engine block at the rear of the motor to get to the rear sump bolts. You will also need a sump gasket as this will destruct when you remove the sump. Will Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted February 2, 2007 Right,know this may sound stupid as but if I left the key in the sump is it going to anything in the long run? I imagine it'd be bigish and too big to get into anything?Only saying this because taking the sump off to retrieve the key would take a while and cost a shitload..shitload of money that I dont have! Would it be easy enough to find another key?Can't imagine a wrecker having one lying around...come on brent! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
A518catcher 0 Report post Posted February 2, 2007 Hey .. after reading wils stuf please ignore my other thread.. the oil pump must run off dissy. But my opinion is that the key depending on size should be fine sitting in the sump provided it has fallen down into the sump. the noise will be the cams getting dry . so stop running it. items can sit in the sump for ever and have a slim chance of getting picked up into an oil tunnel again. it may even come out after an oil change if it is small enough. if you have one of those magnet things with the extendible arials that look like a car arial but with a magnet on the end,,,,it may well be able to pick it up through the same hole it fell in through. I would just buy another key somewhere and get it fitted by that mechanic up there. im in palmy so bit far away to help, good luck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
